Hey folks, for those of you that are guide prep-ping using hand files, what kinda files are you using?

I can't seem to get my fingers coordinated enough to work the smaller guides on a dremel so I figure i better use some hand files.

If I don't, I forsee myself inadvertently grinding off a guide foot or two!

Thanks!

I start with a dremel just to get the shape. Then I move to a metal file about a inch with and laying flat on the bench. I move the guide not the file. then i switch to a small jewilers file if needed. Then i poish on the wonder wheel and finally use a shargie if it is a black guide.

Remember that most files cut in one direction only - so don't "saw" back and forth. Also, slow, steady long strokes will be more effective than short rapid ones. A good file coupled with good technique can shape a guide foot in just a few strokes.

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You might find this little tool to be helpful ... [www.mudhole.com]

Flat Mill Bastard file for tapering the top of the guide foot, rat tail file for the concave underside. Long strokes in the direction of the cut.

Thanks fellas....any particular brands I should consider or just any "name" brand?

Hey George, with regards to the concave underside, you had mentioned strokes in the direction of the cut.

Can you please elaborate what you mean? I'm a bit fuzzy there....do you mean from the center of the guide outward to the tip or vice versa?

Thanks again!

Save yourself a lot of work and pick up a belt sander similar to this one.

[www.harborfreight.com]

Pick up an assortment of sanding belts - ranging from about 50 grit to 600 grit.

The most common grit is 100, 150, 220, and 320 grit. By use of these grits, you can nearly sand anything to any degree of smooth that you want.

I have several 1 inch wide belt sanders that I keep loaded with 80 grit, 220 grit, and 400 grit. Then, by simply moving from machine to machine I can quickly put the finish on the item that I want.

I use these sanders to prep guide feet. smooth the ends of blanks. Cut off and trim up rough glued items. Sand cork rings either before or after gluing. Sand steel stock, as well as graphite stock that is used for both building as well as repair.

Very useful tool that is used daily - many times each day for general purpose building and repair.

In addition, these sanders can be used in nearly every facet of life. i.e sharpening knives, gardening tools, mechanics tools.
It can also remove excess weld, if you weld up something.
Or you can fit a polishing belt on the sander and use it to polish anything from plastic to steel and everything in between.

A few belts:

[search.harborfreight.com]

Take care
Roger


p.s.
When using these belt sanders for guide prep, I use a series of pointed sticks such that the guide being prepped will just fit into the guide. I keep the sanding belt at 90 degrees to the guide feet and use the pointed stick to hold the guide at right angles to the sanding belt.

Look at riffler flies (AKA gun smith flies)just google them

Thanks Roger for the info.

Been a little bit hesistant to use grinder/sander to prep guides in fear of weaking the guide feet and potentially causing breakages.

Hence I figured using hand files, but it'll take more time and maybe end up with a less finish product compared to a grinder/sander.

How about using a Dremel instead?

Will,
find some old rods and cut off the guides.
Practice on these old guides to get down your technique.
If needed, you can go to good will or salvation army and pick up some old rods for a $ each or less.

This is also a good source for some scrap blank material, if you need to extend or repair a blank.

Take care
Roger

Will,

I have my Dremel in a vise that clamps to my bench. I then have a clamp on magnifier lamp clamped next to it. It works great for me.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Hi Will,
If you look at the underside of a guide, you will notice that it is rounded so that it sits on the blank properly. Many times there are bumps or other irregularities on this underside. To remove these problem areas, I hold my rat tail file in one hand. Hold the guide in the other so that the foot of the guide points in the same direction as the file, and stroke the guide along the file lengthwise, until it sits on the blank perfectly flush. AS Tom said, files only cut one way. In fact, going back and forth will dull a file very quickly. You can feel when the file is cutting properly. If you hold the rat tail by the handle end, you will see that pulling the guide down the file, toward the hand holding the file will cut material very quickly from the guide. I try to use long strokes. By "direction of the cut", I am referring to the file and the fact that it only works in one direction. Once i have the underside of the guide fitted to the blank, I taper the top of the guide foot with the flat file. Feel free to contact me if this is still unclear.
No need to purchase any particular brand, but buy good files. For the flat file, that will mean that it has cuts even on its 2 narrow sides. For the rat tail...I just asked the sales person if he thought it was good quality
Have fun!
George



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2009 01:02AM by George Forster.

I use a chain saw sharpening file for the bottoms of the feet and dremmel for the tops.
I also hold the guides with one of these [www.mudhole.com] as I got tired of filing divits in the top of my thumbnail. :)

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

I use a rechargeable Dremel with 150 grit sanding wheels and wear my magnifying hood. Works well. Once I get the shape I want I touch it up with a 220 foam sanding block.

Thank you whoever you are

WWW.WeSeekHerRods.com

Hey thanks for all the info fellas!

I'm gonna spring for some files and Dremel attachments and work away on some practice guides before plopping down some cash!

Thanks again!