I have been testing out different materials(epoxy,cork,graphite) to make ramps over which Ill be putting a feather inlay. Ok Im wrapping and finishing and not getting the desired results. I have been finishing with rod level(center line). My finish tends to be sagging well more like sliding ever so slightly to the small end. Im hoping someone here can fastrack me to solution?

Check out the photo of an ultra light spinning rod in the grips area of the photos (under my name). This rod uses Batson reel seat shims for ramps, turned them on a drill press, and they were very easy. They have to be lighter than epoxy, they finish up well in their natural color (if you want a nice ivory color), not sure how they would paint, but would expect it to work ok. I used the rod for the first time today, and what a dream panfish rod it is.

I finished the ramps in multi coats of rod finish. I also blew them off carefully with compressed air-I expect if you don't you might have a rough finish on the first coat. Their open cell structure would naturally trap "chips." I didn't add the decal or feather inlay until I had a nice smooth finish on they ramps.

You may want to try ramps this way. Until I find a problem with them, I'll be doing it this way from now on. It beats any method of epoxy ramp that I've tried.

Michael

Thanks for you input. I am going to try the brick foam . I am going to use pigmented in the finish instead of paint.

The problem I am trying to get sorted out is this "sliding finish"

Hummm just lost my post??? Ill try again

Would it be better to orient the rod but down/tip up? Right now I have it set at level centerline. I have experimented loads and this is my only stopping block. I have to get this rod done as Im on a deadline and am out of experimentation time

I let my epoxy thicken to the consistency of syrup. I then drip big drops next to the seat and keep doing so until the ramp is filled in and the height I want. A little heat will level it and a little more will thin it enough to shrink it if it ends up to tall. And, I do my ramps in one coat.

Yes Scott butt down tip up and try 5min adhesive not finish.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I tilt my entire lathe when building AND finishing an epoxy ramp ... makes it easy enough that even a caveman can do it.

Have tried lots of different materials and epoxy too. I have settled on 5 min TM Gel. I get very consistent results dripping it on and simply carefully tilting and turning the rod by hand for a few mins. I sometimes lightly move a little speck or two with a thin bodkin while it is still runny. It does not have to come out perfect! After the epoxy dries, you can go back and carefully eye-ball the angled symmetry of the ramp and easily shave off high points with a # 11 scalpel. Be sure to mask off other parts of the exposed rod. After that you can also lightly hand sand it carefully. Let all of that dry a good 24 hours before you thread wrap it or some of the moisture still trapped in the epoxy may seep through from the pressure of the wraps. Posted a few pics of this.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/21/2009 12:33AM by Steve Cox.

I dont tilt a thing. Use rod bond as a base, shape it up with a alcohol wet finger, let cure, add 5min epoxy over the rod bond with it turning on the dryer for a smooth ramp. Simple, easy. perfect. No need to tilt when finishing over the ramps/paint/thread either, just do what you normally do. If you have sagging issues, you have too much finish on, or the finish is still too thin = work from the guides BACK to the reel seat = perfect consistency.

Last one: [www.rodbuilding.org]

DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/21/2009 08:56AM by Duane Richards (DR).

I use 10 min epoxy, keep the rod level, turn on 4-8 rpm dryer while drying. Sand after 24 hrs if neccesary. If I want a longer ramp I build up with masking tape and color it afterwards with a sharpie. I have seen Steve do his method and it came out good, I'm going to try it next time.

Sam,

Flat black testors paint, or any color you like really.....I add the testors with a brush once the epoxy has set firm but still warm = permanent adhesion.

DR

Thanks folks all sorted. Im using TM Lite and just got the temp up so the finish would take off quicker. I just finished as normal with rod level.

Terry Henson, in his feather inlay seminar at ICRBE, mentioned he makes his swells with rod bond and then uses his lathe to sand and shape. I might add that he said that to blend the ramp into the rod blank he sands down JUST through the blank finish not getting into the fibers. If I'm incorrect, maybe he'll read this and chime in and correct me.

Bill in WV