Hi all,

My name is Andy I'm a New Zealander recently moved to Sydney.
I have decided to take up rd building and started by buying Rod-building guide b Tom Kirkman. Im pretty keen to design my rods rather than following manufacturer recipes, that way I hope to gain a better undersanding of design and ultimatly make better rods.

I have a couple of questions. How do you mark the spine once you have found it? You must have to mount the reel seat directly opposite it.

My first rod is going to be a spin with the following components; cts blank 7 foot 2-6kg fast taper, fuji sic tlvsg guides 25, 16, 12, 8, 6,6,6 tip? Do these guide sizes sound ok? I will be using a Luvias 2500 with 8lb braid.

I plan on fitting a Fiji deluxe split cork handle kit. How will I know what size to buy and will I have to buy/make a reamer to make it fit?

I am going to locate the choke guide using the 27x rule.

Whilst I wait for my components to arrive I will need to make a cheap wrapping set up. Would using 2-3 sets of rollers be suiable or is the v-blocks set up better.

I would be most thankfull for any help on the above questions.

Cheers

Andy

You can't preplan your guide sizes with the NGC/27X. The system itself will tell you what you need to use and where to locate them. For this reason, you need to buy extra guides so that you can accommodate whatever sizes may be required. In the end, you're only going to need about 3 guide sizes, 4 at the very most. But you may have to buy 5 or 6 to do your set up with.

I don't bother with the spine so I don't mark it. If you want to spine your rod, put a piece of masking tape on the blank and use a pencil to make an alignment mark.

............

Hi Andy,

Welcome to the rodbuilding world!

Suggestions for the rod wrapping jig: the V-block is probably easier to make, cheaper than buying rollers and works well. Make at least 3 blocks, using scrap boards or plywood. Cut all the blocks to the same height and cut all the V's (about a 45 degree angle) at the same time, if you can, so that all the blocks match. Attach each block at right angles to another block so you can clamp them to your work surface. Line the V section of each block with felt to protect the blank while you're turning . Finished height of the block should be high enough for you to comfortably wrap larger guides - mine are about 5" tall, made from 3/4" x 3 1/2" material. You can use a elastic band around the tips of each V to provide a little tension on the blank, which helps to keep the blank seated in the V and from rotating when you don't want it to.

Thread tension can be accomplished by the cup and book method, or you can build a thread spool carrier and mount it either on a separate block or combine it with 2 of the V blocks on a common base. There are several pictures in the rodbuilding.org database to give you a better idea of how other folks have approached this problem, but there isn't any magic about it - it's whatever works. I like tensioning the spool rather than the thread itself to eliminate the possibility of fraying the thread from the tension device.

A roll of masking tape and a razor blade (or a REALLY sharp knife) and you're ready to go.

You'll probably need to ream the Fuji grip; if you don't have any scrap rod blanks, you can use an appropriately sized wooden dowel (you'll need sizes from 1/4" to 3/8 ") wrapped with strips of sandpaper (80-100 grit) glued on with rubber or contact cement. If you find that the hole is too big, you can build up the blank with thread to match the diameters. Be careful - it's easy to take out too much cork when you're reaming and you'll need to rotate the grip constantly while you're sanding to keep the hole concentric.

You've got a really good guide book to go by; be patient and accept that there is a learning curve to each operation (i.e., you'll probably mess up something as you learn). Dry fit everything before you glue it so you can fix any fit or clearance problems, and rehearse the steps before you start gluing so that you don't get into trouble with glue on the blank and the clock running.

Best of luck; if you run into any problems along the way, you've found the best resource you could have for help - I doubt there's any question about rodbuilding that the folks on this board can't answer from their own experience.,

Pete Appel

Andy:
Check out the Library, and photo pages on this site up in the black bar. On the photo page check out Equipment and tools. There are a lot of home made wrappers and it will give you ideas. The library page has a system to set your guides up and like said you should get extras. Suppliers can help.

Bill - willierods.com

Tom Kirkman's book is invaluable. Get a copy and it will become your bible to getting started, if you follow his instructions. That plus this board, and you will have all the information you might possibly need . Good luck.

Andy Welcome aboard! If you need a question asked here is the place to come. I well not hold it against you for for migrating from Z land to the land of OZZ. My Mother is a Azzie. An I keep telling her that if it hadn't been that all her people were cooks she would not be an Auzzie. But a puritan born in the states. Andy do not take that comment seriously just poking fun Mate. Tom gave you the best advice. Oh yes I am known as wurst speler un thes sute LOL

Good Wraps Bob

Andy, Welcome aboard. Look through the " Equipment and Tools" section, you will find some very simple and easy to make tools.

Thanks guys, I'm sure I will have a few questions along the way. I will get to work on the v-blocks and reamer today. Fitting the grip reel seat etc will be the first challenge.

Tom, so can I decide on a choke guide size before hand say 7mm and then buy a rang of larger guides which will taper down with an even bulls effect when looked through?

Cheers.

If you can also get one of every size of a cheap guide like the concept frame then you can use these to set up any rods you do and then know what guide sizes to order.

Bill - willierods.com

Andy,

i'd say that you may have to select 2 guide sizes first..

the choke guide would be the smallest guide you intend to use on the rod & one that can fit your application (line and knot can pass thru it without a hitch)....

and the butt/stripper guide would be one that is at least half your reel diameter..

that's how i understand the 'New Guide Concept' article in the Library link above

-
Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/10/2009 09:02PM by Christopher Tan.

When you ream the cork out with an abrasive reamer always remember and take care: remove any and all sanding residue (in particular grit) after reaming and before you slide the grip down into place for a test fit. Any grit knocked loose from the reamer still in the cork bore when the cork slides snugly up against the blank during a test fit is going to leave some scratches on your shiny new blank.

Try this out: Put a single layer of masking tape on the blank extending several inches above where you want the cork to end up. Accurately measure the blank diameter at the bottom of where you want the cork to seat and locate the place on the taped area with the same diameter, mark that location. Since one layer of masking tape is not very thick you will not end up very far up the blank relative to your final cork location. Now you have protected the blank (not bullet proof, but pretty good) and still maintained the original taper needed for a good fit. Now go about reaming and test fitting the cork piece you are working on. Still be careful about trying to remove abrasive from the bore before each test fit. You do not want to scratch the blank getting to the taped area. When you are happy with the fit remove the tape, clean the area, ensure the cork bore is clean. Then go about prepping the area and gluing the cork in place.