Hi all,
I have made a few rods now and added my own yellow cedar handle to one of them. I have been using varathane classic coat spar varnish. I would like to know if using flex coat would be better. (I may also be incorporating some antler into my next handle.) Also, Is flex coat essentially the same is thread epoxy?

Thank-you in advance,


Matt

No, it won't be better. Epoxy isn't really made for a top coating on items like that. Guys do it, some like it, but overall a clear urethane or some type of oil or wiping varnish are going to be better for your wood handles.

If you have one that didn't turn out as you wished, and wanted to do an experiment with the epoxy on it, you'd know pretty quickly how well you liked it.

................

Matt,
I can only say that you might give it a try and see if you like it.
Many, many boat paints are two part epoxy paints that make wonderful waterproof, uv resistant finishes.
Having said that - if you don't want to use a urethane varnish, then you might try a 2- part epoxy boat paint for rod handle finish -- rather than flex coat.

The problem with flex coat - is that it is a bit on the thick side - even the light coat - for a good penetrating finish into a handle.

---
For any finish that you put on a handle, you want to investigate its properties to be sure that it is resistant to the effects of sunlight.

For example, many poly clear finishes which excel indoors and for hardwood floors are very poor with respect to sunlight resistance. If one uses one of these indoor finishes on an outdoor deck, you will find that it will be all peeled up in a couple of years from the sun.

================
Note:
here is a nice link that speaks of outdoor sunlight resistant finishes.

[www.systemthree.com]

Good luck.
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2009 05:19PM by roger wilson.

I made a full wells grip coated with Thread Master rod finish that turned out pretty good.
I thought it might be slippery when wet, but it is actually grippier when wet. Go figure.
See the grip here:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

Matt...Roger is right on...the key word is "penetration"... with WOOD it must penetrate...CORK is another story. I have tried numerous ways and found that on WOOD that if I used exterior polyurethane {two Coats} followed by a light coat of Flexcoat Lite, this looks great but then so does multiple coats of Tru Oil, Polyurethane etc. The poly plus the Flexcoat is alot less time consuming. CORK seems to be very good with Flexcoat and again alot faster and easier than multiple coats of Poly or True Oil...EXPERIMENT...EXPERIMENT...EXPERIMENT and find what you are happy with.

Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fishin'Stix by Fred

Matt,

I did a handle with Flex Coat just to see how I would like it. I used a low grade of cork rings with a lot of pits. The Flex Coat filled the pits nicely and actually had a little character. All and all, I did not like it very much. I much prefer Tru - Oil.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

While I understand that the oils and polyurethanes will penetrate the wood thus sealing it from the elements, doesn't epoxy get you to the same end result...a wood handle sealed from the elements?

I know some folks prefer a satin sheen on the finished handle but personally I really like the gloss that the epoxy provides without the many coats required by other methods. If I'm missing something here please let me know.

Thanks,

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

I just got finished with a U of L themed steelhead blank I built for channels, Check the handles out on it,,Slick as glass..I have also used it on several others with outstanding results,, Thin the flex out a little with acetone and use several coats, cures like a rock. I have yet to see one yellow from the sun..

I do wood handles almost exclusively and have had fine luck with two part epoxy. I can't speak for my customers really, but the ones I've made for myself have been very durable through years of exposure to the elements. I certainly don't baby my gear. It's out in the sun and rain etc. a lot through the summer. I have been very happy with it. It is easy to have too high a build with epoxy. I just use a couple light coats and a little carefully applied heat to drop the viscosity and get a smooth glassy hard finish.

I agree with Fred, no matter what you use, a little experimentation goes a long way. I initially experimented with polyurethanes and was having trouble getting the stuff to set because I mostly work with oily tropical hardwoods. Tried treating the surface with alcohol to remove the oils. Still was having problems. So I did some more experimenting with epoxies and developed a process that works fine for me and have now been doing that for years with very pleasing results.

Good luck,

Tony Hanson

If you see some of the beautiful work of Terry Hensen, you would be impressed. Go to the photo site about 2 or 3 pages back on the "grips and handles". I believe he uses CA which I have started using on my reel seat inserts I have been making. The final polish can be done to make it satin or gloss

CA (superglue) is where its at for me. Durable, rockhard, great feel...not much else to ask for. I have a very specific process that I like to use that nets me a great finish that I can make glossy or matte. If you want more details about it, you can shoot me an email or if you want, email me your number and I'll give you a call and explain it in detail.

Tru-Oil is what you are needing, 3 or more coats. Gives a beautiful gloss and great protection, no mixing required just rub it on and let dry, lightly sand and put on next coat. I have used it for gun stocks for many years and on my rods for almost as long. If you get adventuresome then try Perma-gloss. It has a learning curve but I apply mine as the handle turns, it takes at least 3 coats.

there are many good finishes and each have their strong points and weaknesses. i believe there are much better finishes than rod finish. my experience is it will scratch/scuff very easily and if there is any resin to the wood it will react with it. oils, urethanes, ca, ca/blo are all good. i use different finishes depending on the type of wood/material and finish look i am trying to accomplish. Petri offers a polyurethane gel that is wipe on and has uv inhibitors. it is very easy to apply with a wipe on or on the lathe. good luck with your endeavor

Matt, road test this link I got from Mark Blabuam. [www.penturners.org]

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)