Any comments on the Pac Bay epxoy mixer with the 24 RPM motor?
I'm trying to improve my finsihes and I read the article about eliminating bubbles with the mixers.
I'm looking to buy one of these, hoping it will work well. I haven't tried one before or tried to make my own.

The automatic mixers work well. I have been using a home-built model for a long time. However, I can whip epoxy into a froth and still have it come out just fine. While you may find the mixer to be helpful and easy, it won't cure application issues. The ONLY thing that will ... practice, practice and more practice - paired with consistency and some solid technique.

i made one myself with by bending 3mm acrylic into a 45 degree angle and a 30 rpm motor , using the spatula as the mixer (my mixing rod hasnt come in yet) .. it works, but like Jim said, i can mix it manually and am able to get a nice finish without bubbles too...

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Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!

Here is an event that pleased us. . . . . .
Like everyone we have been battling bubbles for many years - - - - -
Over a year ago we bought a motorized in-trade epoxy mixer - - - -
Several montha ago we had a project to put new finish on two 6' 6" rods; all mixed
in the motorized mixer. We used Flex Coat Lite. with color added.. There were
two coats on each rod.. . . A lot of epoxy and a tedious job. About 12 hours between
coats. No need for horizontal flame for heat and CO2.
The job came out just fine NO BUBBLES.
We don't have a technical mind here; but we can't figure the lack of bubbles
on anything else but the mixer..

jocko

I purchased a Pac Bay epoxy mixer, I thought it would be cool to be able to "set it and forget it", kind of deal. I havn't had the best luck with it. I've had problems with consistant mixing. I think the big steel cylnder that they provide with the machine is too large. I had never had trouble with bubbles and or tacky finish prior to using this thing. I read through many post's about epoxy mixers and how long to mix. I since have gone back to my old way, mix with a spatula until it turns clear, heat with heat gun to remove any bubbles, mix a bit more, re-heat if any more bubbles appear, and simply apply. I think maybe if you were mixing large amounts of epoxy it would work better, but the average rod I build only requires around 3 CC's of each harderner and resin. That is my experience anyway. Best of luck, and if you would like to buy a Pac Bay epoxy mixer, I know of one that is for sale.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

I got one for free when i bought my rod lathe. I love it. Just squirt your epoxy in, let it spin for 3-4 minutes and your ready to rock. I did have to tweak the base a little to get the angle of the cup right.

got to add.. i have been mixing 1 cc each .... if larger qty , i will try the mixer + mixing rod when i have larger qty of finish to mix

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Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!

get rid of the metal cylander and get a large ball bearing 5/8-3/4". I also have a 1/2" for smaller mixes. Works fine

If you read the article in RodMaker, which predates the Pacific Bay mixer by several years, you can easily see the difference in clarity between epoxy mixed by a mechanical device and that mixed by hand. You are never going to produce a mix by hand that doesn't have bubbles - and even careful hand mixes will contain thousands upon thousands of micro-bubbles. Too small to see individually, but which cause a less than perfectly clear finish.

If you're interested in the clearest and brightest epoxy finish possible, either make a mixer according to the instructions or buy the Pacific Bay unit. You'll be quite pleased at how much more clear and bright your finishes will suddenly become.

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I am happy with my mixer, I use a 1/2" ball with it and mix for 3 minutes. Nothing to it. Although it sounds as if it is different strokes for different folks. Just make sure your mixture is 50% - 50%.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I have been using a Pac Bay mixer for about 18 months and I enjoy the results much better than the hand mixing method. I do not get as many bubbles and I do not have to use as much heat to get rid of the bubbles that do appear. I did not realize how many micro bubbles that were in the hand mix until one day I applied a hand mixed coat to a rod with my magnifier on and I could not believe the amount of tiny bubbles. Take what Tom says as the almost gospel. 99.999 percent he is right.

my room temp is around 30-32 c in the day and perhaps 28-29 in the night.. (located at near the equator). that could be one reason why my bubbles disperse easier ?

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Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!

I will have to give it another try with a ball bearing.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

Bubbles will disperse more easily at warmer temperatures as the epoxy will be a thinner consistency at those higher temps.

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Our shop here is heated at 70 degrees 24/7. However; we heat everything with a
hair dryer about 5 minutes whether it be epoxy; enamel; varnish; whatever; all
before use. With the epoxy it SEEMS that it is more fluid when using the syringe for
mixing. Is it possible we generate bubbles when measuring? There is need for more
knowledge than we have here.

jocko

You do, but if you draw the epoxy into the syringes slowly, bubbles will be minimal. It is the hand mixing, stirring, that causes most bubbles in the mix. It is brush the finish on and around that then creates even move bubbles in the finish.

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I have a Pac-Bay unit and really like the results. I typically mix 3-4cc batches and this seems perfect for the unit. Any larger and it seems a larger "agitator" would be helpful. Mix and pour onto foil, blow the epoxy to help release the bubbles and apply.

Not to mention rotating the rod by hand for the first hour or so has made a dramatic difference in my finishes. Much more so than the epoxy mixer.

I don't have a commercial mixer
i just use my dryer motor to hold plastic shot glasses ( 40 for $2 ) and incline it.
( 4RPM Bar-B-Q rotisserie motor with electrical cable glands of various sizes for the chuck ......... the last rod fell out of my conventional chuck 25 yrs ago......so the chuck went in the bin 25 yrs ago)
for small mixes I use a lead ball sinker that has the hole filled with epoxy & is epoxy coated, that way I can use a smaller ball for effective mixing of small batches.
Small steel ball bearings don't work for small mixes as they just don't have enough weight & stick to the side of the cup & go for a ride
Works for me

Lead does work better for the reasons Denis stated. I use round jig heads, grinding off line tie and straightening wire hook to use as a handle to remove ball when mixing complete. Also use bullet sinkers-cutting off pointed section and inserting a piece of wire into hole for a handle. Gives option of using different sizes for different batch size. Handle to hold makes a quick wipe with alcohol easy for cleanup.

Chris

All these issues, including the required weight of the ball for the particular finish viscosity and optimum cup speed and angle, were fully covered in the article.


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