Just curious,but if you were to start all over again(as a beginner) in rodbuilding,which products would you choose and why?With all the products on the market now and the constant improvements and refinements being made in materials,which epoxies,finishes,and tools have you found to be the best and easiest to use?Are there any that you wouldn't recommend or that you think aren't neccessary?

HI Tony; Regarding epoyies, and finish, I would use Flex Coat. I have tried some other products (finish) some years ago and was dissapointed with certain long term results. As far as tools go, that's a loaded question. If you could be more specific, maybe I could help with regards to a rod wrapper, burnishing tool, etc.

Best regards, Pat Doyle

I also believe even a beginner should learn to properly use epoxy. It offers so many advantages once you get the hang of it.

Flex Coat is hard to beat. I am probably going to switch to the Glass Coat stuff since it's said to work just like the Flex Coat but remain clearer over the long haul. But either way these are beginner friendly epoxies.

As far as other products, I'd say to stay with Gudebrod thread. I've tried the others and just had an assortment of odd things come up. Gudebrod isn't perfect, but seems to be pretty consistent all the way around.

Any of the major finishes work real well. It really depends on what you get use too and how you apply it. LS Supreme is a good beginners finish due to its long pot life. I now use it because I can usually finish with it in one application. Applying epoxy or paint isn't one of my favorite pastimes and I find that I make only half as many errors applying it once than when I apply it twice. I think the best advice is to stick with one brand until you are familiar with its application and performance before you try another.

Tony -
If I were to start over as a serious hobbiest I'd buy the Pac Bay rod wrapper since it comes with both a rod lathe and a finishing motor. It's very easy to use and the only drawback is that it could have a better chuck on it. Those darned little "feet" have a tendency to flop out from time to time. Small, high quality scissors (manicure or quilting type with large finger holes), lots of single edge razor blades - preferably the metal handled type that Oriental women use to shave their eyebrows. Almost any of the threads made for rod wrapping today work well - Gudebrod nylon and NCP seems to be the most consistent in color/dye match from spool to spool - for metal threads I prefer J-Metalllic as it's a finer, thread that has less 'memory' than the newer Gudebrod HT's. I would defiinitely learn to use a spatula to apply thin coats of epoxy finishes and use "acid" or "flux" brushes rather than stiffer economy nylon brushes as those seem to create more bubbles in the finish for me.
I've been using Classic Rod Coat for about 5 years as it has a UV protector in the finish so there's less yellowing over time than with Flex Coat and is more forgiving on the 50/50 mix. I just got my first shipment of Glass Coat from Tomari Custom Rods and will be trying that out later this evening. By all accounts this is among if not the best new two part "high build" finish on the market. Counter point to that is LS Supreme - which I think is unbeatable for a thin epoxy finish. All are compatable with the newer water-based color preservers.
Things I use all the time: open weave dry wall finishers' sand screens in a variety of grits for turning hypalon/EVA and cork. Fine emory cloth - down to 600 grit. Two part paste epoxy - either U-40 or Kardol; 5 minute and slow cure liquid two part epoxy - they're all good - but I tend to use more Flex Coat than others, probably based on availability and price. Fireline for ti -off loops. Although there was a post here about a wire product that sound much more promising as the loop returns to "open" after it's pulled under the threads to terminate wraps. A variety of rasps and reaming tools (home made) for enlarging inside diameters of cork and foam grips. Dremel motor tool with coarse and extra fine rotary rasps and diamond cut off wheels (on metal disks) for finial finish on guide feet and trimming various things. Rotary tool wire brushes (steel and brass) as well as polishing disks for cleaning old ferrules and reel seats on old fly rods. 6" bench grinder with a fine and extra fine wheel for preparing guide feet and a tapered metal rod with "dip-it" /rubberized tool handle covering on it to hold really small guides while grinding the feet down.
As far as things I never use - a burnishing tool. I prefer to use my thumbnail. I never put it where I can't find it and there is no chance of knicking a thread with a rough edge. I've probably got as many gizmos and gadgets as anyone - but I tend to use them all for specific purposes.
Hope this helps some

Thanks so much for all the great tips and advice,especially all the info regarding different tools and gizmos.I am new to this myself and also have a freind who wants to give it a try.I have a hard time trying to explain to him how to start out,as I'm really not qualified.There are so many new products and tools out there now that I don't really know how to help him get set up.I've already got him onto checking the archives of this site.

I built my own rod dryer with motor from allelectronics.com.It's a 30rpm that I was previously using for drying epoxy flys so hopefully it will be sufficient.I also built my own rod wrapper off of some plans that I saw on another fishing site.

I've started out using certain items that I like so far such as Gudebrod thread and Flex Coat high build rod finish,but when I start hearing so many good things about other items like Glass Coat and LS Supreme I start to wonder whether I should try it yet or if I should get more experience first with what I already have.I've heard some stories about Flex Coat yellowing as it ages and obviously want to avoid this,especially when I build on a high end blank.I don't really want to build on a high quality blank unless I know I can do a good jod and that I've chosen a finish that will remain clear.If the LS Supreme or Glass Coat is not too difficult for a novice to work with then should I try one of them or should I stick with Flex Coat and hope that the wraps don't yellow?What about the Gudebrod Finish?

I probably won't build more than a few rods a year,unless I build some for freinds,but I want to take my time with each one and do them right.

Tony -
You will have no problem with Glass Coat or with LS Supreme. They are basic two part epoxies. Measure carefully, mix ('blend") for at least
a minute to ensure a good interaction and "away you go". The only time
you'll really notice "yellowing" with Flex Coat is on a white blank or white thread wraps. I wouldn't worry too much otherwise.
BTW --- You've got the right idea: take your time with each one, do them right ---- They represent YOU.