I have a blank that was bought a few years ago by my father. He put a handle and seat on it with rodbuilders epoxy and I believe he used super glue to secure ONE LARGE Spinning guide. I am working on finishing the build with a nice custom handle and the guide spacing is all messed up with that one guide on there.

At this point the handle is removed leaving a bunch of the epoxy. What is the best way to clean this and get it down close to the blank?

He likes the split grips that I have built and was trying for that before I saw the mess that the epoxy has left. I may have to scrap that idea if I can't clean it up better.

Lastly, the guide, I don't know where he got the spacing from, but, removing the guide was easy, now there is a heavy spot of superglue in a location that I CANNOT place a guide or a wrap.

I have tried finger nail polish remover, heat, even a razor on edge to remove the highest spot!! This great brown blank looks terrible with that spot and and I dont' knwo how to save it.

Any help on eeither item would be greatly appreciated as this rod was what he really wanted at the time and never got to finish it.

I like to use Citrus Strip to remove epoxy. It might also work on the Super Glue. You should also look for something made specifically for removing Super Glue. I saw it next to the Super Glue somewhere recently, maybe Walmart, Lowes or Home Depot, but I'm not sure.

At some point you are reduced to chipping, slicing, etc., to get rid of super hard adhesive spots. Just be careful not to cut or slice into the blank when doing this.

You might also try sanding that one spot with an emery board. Again, don't sand into the blank.

............

To remove CA glue thre is a product called "debonder"; usually comes in 1 oz. bottles;
takes effort but it works.

Polish remover comes 2 ways; WITH acetone; and WITHOUT acetone. Check
the labels. . . . . . .

jocko

Anything you try on the blank should be tried on the cleanest spot you can find down on the butt in a very small spot first to make sure it doesnt make the problem worse.

I think the worst case scenario may be that you cannot get it off without affecting the finish of the rod, then it may mean sanding the whole rod down and refinishing it. I've not done it, but I think others on this forum have and could give you some tips.

The butt area should be easy to handle by just sanding it down, if nothing else works, then refinishing the whole area between the split grips with marbling, decals, or simply paint or epoxy. Some rod materials really look neat with glossy epoxy rod finish.

The main thing is to progress slowly and carefully so you don't totally ruin the blank.

the stuff that you get when you stick your fingers together normally works if not soak a rag in BOILING water and wrap it round the spot for five minutes then scrape it off (time consuming but eventually will work)

I only have one suggestion that I used to help me remove excess chunk glues and epoxy. Take a standard metal FLAT file and file the epoxy off. You cant get it all and you have to keep the file flat and stay on the epoxy. Once you get the epoxy down nearly to blank level, it's easier to remove with the citrus solvents and such listed above. If you destroy the rod paint in the split area, just paint it black with some testors paint and put a coat of finish over it, you can even add a decal, rod label or what ever you like there including some marbling or thread work for him. With the guide you could try and make your wraps cover the super glue removal if needed. Sure they may be a little longer than you like, but like said on another thread, you'll see it, but others wont.

DR

If you use Duane's method, wrap a single layer of tape on both sides of the area to be filed. Be sure that the file is wide enough to reach both pieces of tape. This will insure that you will keep the file parallel to the rod and not dig into the blank. I would start with masking tape and then progress to scotch tape. GO SLOW. Use crocus cloth glued to a flat piece of metal or wood for the final few thousands if the solvents don't work.

Jason,
For issues like this I simply do the following:
1. I keep my heat gun handy, and I keep a supply of straight edged razor blades.
2. I warm the blank to soften the epoxy or super glue.
3. Then, I use a straight edged razor blade, held perpendicular to the blank scraping away the glue.
4. Continue scraping until you are down to clean level finish.
5. If necessary, use 400 grit sand paper or so to finish cleaning up the blank.
6. If you have a different colored blank under the finish, but need to have the guide located in a different area - and don't really want to refinish the spot or entire blank, simply wrap that spot with appropriate matching thread color and finish as if it were a guide wrap.
7. Do the same thing for the split grip. After getting the blank all cleaned up and smoothed down, go ahead and do you handle finish and glue up. Then, wrap all of the blank between grips to effectively cover the blank and any off color or differenty tectures spots.

Take care
Roger

p.s.
For the areas of the blank that you are just covering, you can get creative and do some nice contrasting colors or other things to dress up the rod. Or, you can simply find thread - that once coated is a perfect match for the existing blank to cover the spot with little notice.

iF YOUR GOING TO FILE IT DONT FILE ROUND THE CONTOUR OF THE BLANK FILE IT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION
so as you look end on to the blank and you see a circle going anticlockwise try ond rock the file as if you are filing a upside down clockwise If you look here [www.rodbuilding.org]
it should explain it a bit better

Like this you keep the shape of what you are filing rather than "ovaling it out"

Try using a finishing abrasive buff (item 511) on your Dremel tool. The buff will gradually and gently remove the epoxy, even if you have cork fragments embedded in the epoxy. If the blank retains some of the chalky color then apply a coat or two of U-40 Perma Gloss. I am too clumsy to use sharp objects, files, heat or high explosive liquids around graphite and found the buffing wheel to be a good safe alternative. You may want to buy two packages of buffs as they will wear out pretty quick. One buff will usually clean a 9" each span of blank. Good luck.

Doyne,
On that same vein - if you have a power buffer, with a relatively hard buff - with an appropriate compund, you can do the same thing fairly quickly with the bench mounted buffer.
Take care
Roger

Thank you. I bet that would be quicker and less expensive in the long run.