I just switched to threadmaster lite. I did a test wrap and coated it in flexcoat cp and applied the threadmaster. When I heated it with the alcohol burner it made more bubbles. Anyone else have this problem. I used to do this all the time with flexcoat lite and never had it happen.

I use threadmaster lite and it is the only finish that I have ever used. I have found that with my method no matter the size of the batch that i am mixing up the amount of bubbles in the mix can be counted on one hand if looking through a magnifying glass. What i do is I put the bottles in front of my heater until the bottle is good and warm even pliable, this not only lessens the bubbles but also makes the finish even thinner making it self leveling. Obviously drawing out with syringes a couple big bubbles might get trapped in the syringes so i just push back and forth on the plunger until I get a dose that is low on bubbles. When mixing either use your brush or a small metal mixing spatula and do not quickly stir or spin the mixing utensil and do not keep lifting the mixing utensil out of the finish as putting it back in can get more air bubbles trapped, mix for about 30 sec and most bubbles should be gone. Also, I mix this up in glass shot glasses because the smooth glass does not hold air bubbles. If bubbles persist, I have never used an alcohol lamp but I have a pencil torch 2.00 from harbor freight and I keep the tip of the flame about an inch away from the finish and then slowly mix some more and that usually gets rid of any extra hitchhikers.
James

If you apply too much heat you will actually boil the finish which creates tons of micro-bubbles. Different finishes will tolerate different amounts of heat before this happens.

Heating of a finish should be limited to a just 2 or 3 seconds per wrap. You're not trying to cook it, just very slightly warm it to expand the bubbles so they'll rise and leave the mix.

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I find with TM light if I just leave it well enough alone for 15 minutes after application no matter how many bubbles I put into it they are nearly all gone. When I was heating it, like I do with Aftcoat, right away i was more prone to screwing up the finish then helping it. I suggest you apply it and walk away from it for a little while. Then check it and heat LIGHTLY until you get the desired clarity.

Stephen is right on. Leave it for 15min come back and barely warm it if needed and that will do it.

I run a cigarette lighter along BESIDE the area as the rod turns and the heat being near it works like a charm and I only warm an area if I see something that needs it.

DR

Jason,

Threadmaster light is the only finish that I've used that doesn't seem to need any heat at all. I generally warm the bottles of finish 6-7seconds in the micowave individually. Lots of times bubbles are drawn into the finish with the syringes when drawing out of the bottle.The technique described by others here of leaving the syringes in the bottle caps really helps in that department.

Dave