I just finished my first tiger wrap per the instructions in RM. 2 words on this. "Whew" and "Wow". It is one spectacular effect. My problem is the pull out thread. I had to wrap and heat that thing 5 times before I was able to get a consistent gap. And then, it slid on me while I was applying finish. Even with these problems, it still looks pretty nice. I plan on redoing it and would really like some suggestions on getting that sacrificial thread out of there. I'm following the instruction with warming to the touch and have found that unwrapping and rewrapping and reheating after botching the outer winds only compounds the problem. Has somebody got an easy trick? What about a little more tension on that outer wrap? Would that cause it to set deeper when heating? Or, even better, how bout a way to fix em when they try to slide together?
I've learned that tension is extremely important here. For those of you who are like me and a brick short of a wheel barrow load, size A thread becomes size AA or smaller if too much tension is applied. So, it's important to have the same tension on both threads when you wrap them together.
Ya ain't gotta hit me in the face with a wet mop for me to see what's goin on, but I'll get it a lot quicker that way.

Greg

TRy coating the wrap with CP and, after it is almost dry, snip and pull out the sacrificial thread. Leave the rod in the lathe/wrapper and pull straight back, never at any side angle to the blank, and you should end up with good results.

PULLING the sacraficial thread it not a good idea. Of course, at first you have to pull it for a wrap
or two to get it started but it's best to UNWIND it without really pulling on it with any tension. Under
tension it will want to push against the remaining thread which can move it and that's what you
must avoid especially if your leaving only one thread behind and not doing a 3 or 4 thread tiger
wrap.
What I do on my power wrapper is start removing the sac. thread on the side that I started the wrap
and after I get a few winds off I turn the blank and let the threads own weight pull it off the blank as it
turns under power. I'm not using the thread to turn the rod and spin it out. Turn the rod by what ever
means and let the sac thread come out on it's own and help it along not to re-wrap itself aroung the
blank again.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Right, if you read both articles in the magazine on the technique, you should notice that the first thread layer is wound with very little tension and the second layer is wound with more tension. The sacrificial thread is simply unwound - the rod should easily turn backwards as the thread just falls off at the rod turns. Take the belt off the motor and the rod will turn much easier - pulling on the sacrificial thread should then result in it just flying off the rod.

One of the other tips mentioned in the magazine is to apply the top layer and let it remain on the rod for a few hours. This also helps it set deeper into the layer of finish over the first layer of thread.

...........

I do exactly like raymond noted.

also, as tom noted, after i heat the wrap, I let it site for about an hour, or longer, before removing the sacrificial

I wrap the second threads with more tension, heat, let cool, then I put the rod in felt lined v-blocks and very gently pull the sacrificial thread while the rod spins. Never had a problem.

Thanks guys,
I'm following the article to the letter and pretty much doin what you all are saying. I guess it just takes practice like so much else. Again, thank you very much.
Greg