While at the reception at the 2009 show, I won a $200 gift certificate from Batson. I am a salt water builder, so I decided to do something different and build a 4 piece 8 weight fly rod. I spined all 4 pieces of the rod to get a starting point. Now I have two questions: When doing ferols, do you put alignment lines on both the male and female parts to keep the guides straight? Also, what butt is best for an 8 weight, a fighting butt or a plain butt?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Bill Marchisella

If you don't put alignment marks on both ends of the ferrule, you won't have anything to reference with. One mark is going to be hard to line up unless you have another to mate it to. Perhaps I'm missing your question here.

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Yes, mark both male and female ferrules as Tom said, keeping the male mark back from the tip end about 3" to allow for the overlap. The fighting butt is a personal preference, but if you put on a removable fighting butt, then you can fish with it or without it. I prefer having them on the larger rods, but your choice.

H



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2009 10:31AM by Harold Dean.

Bill, I have three eight weight rods for bass and saltwater fishing. All three have fighting butts. I would rather have them when I need them than not have them. I turn a small fighting butt that I attach to the end of the rod. When I glue the reel seat I leave a couple of inches of the blank sticking out to glue the butt. Another reason I like a butt on my rods is that it helps keep the reel from touching the ground when I set my rod down.

You can live without the alignment marks. You'll have to sight down the guides to align the pieces. It's easier to have the marks than not, though. Fighting butt yes for an 8 weight. You might consider single foot ceramics for the running guides. I use them on 7 wts and higher, generally unless the customer doesn't want them.

Also, use a reel seat with a little body, like a Batsons A8 or similar. They do a better job of holidng the larger reels and help balance the weight as well.

Ask more questions as you proceed.

Terry

If you were abel to find the spine of the butt section of an 8 weight rod, you're a better man than I. I never use alignment marks i just sight down the guides. If you are off a few degrees, you will never notice the difference.

Fitting butts can be handy, I'd go for it.

After finding the spline and assembling the rod sections I use a metallic ink pen and place a dot of ink on each section at the male/female joint. I follow up with a coat of color prez and have alignment marks for building and as part of the final rod aesthetic.

If you have'nt already ordered the reel seat, check out Batson's YFLY. The matching grip and fighting butt has a custom looking trim. For a better picture search "Karry Batson" in the photo section. I made a 8wt two weeks ago with the same seat and grip and it looks awesome. I am going to try it out tomarrow on some redfish

I build on the straightest axis and disregard the spine. I mark the sections and then add either feather quills or small inlaid threads for alignment marks.

At the Highpoint show I picked up RM issue# 5 Vol5 and it has a great article on making removable fighting butts on fly rods using graphite/nylon reel seats and some cork rings.

I like a fighting butt, and I'll even put one on a 4 wt, because I like the look. They are also practical for fish-fighting, and they keep your reel out of the dirt, when you set the rod down. I know some guys prefer the removeable butts, but, IMHO, there is already too much gadgetry and gee-gawkery associated with fly-fishing...leaders, tippets, blood knot vs surgeon's knot, nail knot vs loop-to-loop, Gink, Zink, Samadou, strike indicators, line dressing, hopper/dropper, match the hatch, floating line, sinking line, weight forward, double taper, shooting head, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera...
On that rod, Bill, I would mount a permanent fighting butt, and be done with it.
But, that is just my opinion.