I just ordered a little hobby lathe so I can start turning a few cork handles....there's only one problem, I don't have a clue what else I need. I'm just wanting to do some basic stuff to start with, so what tools will I need?

~Jon

There is certainly something in angling that tends to produce a serenity of the mind

Stanley SurForm file for knocking off the epoxy ridges and very rough shaping. Then, a half round scraper for making the grip concentric to the bore. Then, just sandpaper in 80, 100, 150, 220 and 320 grits.

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Jon,
If you are going to be turning cork, there are just a few things you need.
1. A stanley surform planer. This works very well to cut through any glue line, if you happen to have glue on the outside of the handle. It is a rasp, so a light touch is needed to avoid over use and digging in too far.
2. Sandpaper -
You need grades starting from 60 grit on up.
i.e. 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 240, 320, 400.
3. Flat boards for backing the sandpaper to keep the sandpaper flat.
You can use aluminum flat stock in widths of 1-3 inches. You can use 1/8th to 1/4inch plywood. I have a stack of 1/8th inch plywood in various widths about 4-6 inches long.

4. You will likely need a couple of razor knives. i.e. blade holders for exacto blades to do some end trimming and cutting. You can use a utility knife, but an exacto knife works better.

5. If you ever get into turning things that are harder than cork, you need to consider the use of some turning tools, like gouges, shapers and edgers. However, to begin with just cork - you really only need sandpaper and some backing boards.

One thing that would help a lot for the first time would be to observe someone else do some sanding and shaping on a handle. You can learn as much in about a 1/2 hour of observation as you can learn from several hours of reading about techniques.
So, if you have any turners in the area, or rod builders with a lathe, I would suggest that you contact them for a couple of sessions.

Don't make it complicated to start with. As a matter of fact you really don't even need the stanley plane to start. If you do have a glue line on the cork, you can just use 60 grit paper and a backing board to cut through the glue line.

Good luck.
Roger

Tom and Roger,
Thanks for the help. I'll have to go out and get that stuff. I really appreciate the help.

~Jon

There is certainly something in angling that tends to produce a serenity of the mind

Jon,

I'm not disagreeing with Tom on the Surform, but it's pretty rough and cuts really quickly and you can ruin a cork handle in a heartbeat if your not careful with it. I would suggest you go to WalMart or any Pharmacy in the foot care section and pick up a callous remover. It's not as aggressive and you can control it a lot easier.

Bill in WV

I don't do much with cork, but when I have, 60 grit was good enough to get the excess epoxy off, as was a gouge, as was a skew chisel. AS Bill mentioned, that Surform is very easy to chunk up a grip, whether it be cork or EVA - so if you decide to go that route just go slowly at first and try to not remove too much. Once you get the touch, you will be fine though.

John,
I'm with Billy on this one. For cork fly rod grips, some with embedded composite rings, I've only ever used 60 grit (cheap imported bargain brand) to get through the excess adhesive and do initial shaping. From there I use progressively finer grits in better quality paper.

I cut a piece of sandpaper lengthwise down the middle, then tri-fold that. The paper is looped around the turning pre-grip. Caution: when using paper this way do not wrap the paper around your fingers, just hold it lightly between your thumb and forefinger. If the paper catches you want it to be easily pulled from your fingertips.

As you begin to incorporate other materials into your grips you may want to add tools as necessary.

Jeff Shafer

I use wall board sand screen, a sanding block, a few dowels verious sizes to form patterns and 400 sand paper to finish off.Plus a couple of rough files. These are thw tools I use when I do a cork repair.

Good Wraps Bob

Hey, what about mandrels? You have to glue the rings up on something.

I use dry wall sanding screens made by "3 M" available at any home improvement store. Cuts quick, and can be cleaned out.
As Fran mentioned you will need mandrels, so you will also need mandrel wax or you can substitute with teflon tape. If you don`t the cork will be on the mandrel forever.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

you are going to need a mandrel too. have to mount the cork on something so you can turn it.

Keith
Fishing isn't everything, it's much more important than that.

I have turned cork on several different styles of mandrels that I have com up with on my own. The mandrels from Lamar are awesome. Your lathe might not be set up to accept a mandrel. I had to do some tuning on mine to get it to work.

To get the lathe to accept the mandrel you will need a chuck jaw for the head stock. There are many varieties of these. The one I uses is a drill chuck from craftsman it was 24 dollars and change. Works great.

All,
I have used both wall board screen for sanding - but find that it doesn't cut quickly enough for my needs.
I have also used 60 grit paper to cut the glue line on a handle, but find that I go through a lot of paper. i.e. I will use an entire sheet to get through one handle. I probably go a bit overboard on the glue to insure that I have a good glue joint on the rings.

So, I have switched to the Stanley file to remove the glue lines. The plane really doesn't wear out and is easy to knock out the filings.

Both of the afore mentioned items work just fine. I just prefer to use the others due to their use better meeting my particular needs.

Take care
Roger