Whats the best kind of magnifier and lighting to get so I can see while wrapping?Also where is some good info on spiral wrapping a rod?All my searches at top of page here say no info found. Thanks Sonny

I tried a lot of magnification aids. I strongly recommend Mag-Eyes. Wearing them can be a little clumsy but IMO the best bet for the long run. You might even try the clip on magnifiers for fly fishing but mag eyes are better for working long periods of time.

John
God bless the troops and USA

I agree with John,
My brother gave me a couple pairs of Mag Eyes several years ago, and it was the best thing I have used for rod building.
I have tried magnifiers, magnifying lights and 2 or 3 X reading glasses.

2or 3X reading glasses work very well, bu the problem is that the focal distance is too close.

It is nice to work at a distance of about 12-15 inches. Mag Eyes allow you to do this. i.e. they give perfect vision at this distance.

In contrast a pair of 2 or 3X reading glassess will have a focal distance of only 4-6 inches depending on the magnification.
You can work under these circumstances, but it is very tiring.

Take care
Roger

I have a really long armed fluorescent fixture with a 3X diopter lens. It wasn't inexpensive, but it reaches my entire workbench (10.5') and really makes life easier.

I would definitely suggest making sure the lens isn't flawed before throwing away the packing. I really like my light, but the flaws in the lens tend to make mistakes appear in my work that aren't there.

Jim -

I have one of these. And have had it for many years. I am sure many suppliers on the left sell them: [www.cabelas.com]

Bill - willierods.com

I use a halogen light that I can swing over my rod wrapper. And I bought a great headset magnifier from Acid Rod. It has four lenses so you can choose the degree of magnification you need. And the price is very affordable.

Bruce- If you think that you might like the one that Bill B posted from Cabelas. I have one that I would give you for just postage to ship it to you.I now have one like Jim G has that I bough at a yard sale.
So if you would email your address to me I'll get it off to you.Just click on my name for my email address. Yours is hidden.I think that postage would be around $11.00/ $12.00 without insurance.<<<<DON>>>>

I have a weighted table magnifer that has a glass ground lens, it cost about 399. It is by Luxo. a German company. Being weighted I can move it any where.

Good Wraps Bob

I have a weighted table magnifer that has a glass ground lens, it cost about 399. It is by Luxo. a German company. Being weighted I can move it any where.

Good Wraps Bob

I have a weighted table magnifer that has a glass ground lens, it cost about 399. It is by Luxo. a German company. Being weighted I can move it any where.

Good Wraps Bob

I have a weighted table magnifer that has a glass ground lens, it cost about 399. It is by Luxo. a German company. Being weighted I can move it any where.

Good Wraps Bob

I don`t like the glasses, they are in t he way when I need something from the bench, I have a 5 inch lighted swing magnifier also. The light makes a big difference for the close up work we need the magnifier for.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Hi,
I have a goosneck magnifer mounted on my table, but I have been using a 7 diopter head set by OptiVisor almost exclusively now.
Herb

I use a make-up/war paint mirror that belongs to my wife.

Bruce,
With respect to lighting.
1. It is a good idea to have good general overall lighting. i.e. general room lighting. You don't want to have a very bright task area and then look up into a dark room.
Florescent or can lighting if properly installed can take care of room lighting.

2. In addition to the overall room lighting, you need some pretty intense "task" lighting,, lighting up the particular guide or other detail that you are working with.
I have tried incandescent, florescent and others, but have found that most of these light sources are too big and get in the way, of the work area.

3. I have finally settled on multiple halogen lights when may be directed to the specific work area. i.e. swing arm light or goose neck lights which have 50 watt halogen bulbs installed. I generally have these light sources about 10 -24 inches from the work so that the particular work area is very bright. Having very bright light makes all of the detail pop and keeps the eye fatigue down.
With swing arm lights, it is easy to move the light a bit if needed when working on a particular piece of work.

Good luck and may your eyes be well rested.

Roger

Thanks everyone for your replies.I think I have some good ideas now.As far as my spiral question,I found plenty info at the most unlikely place.Who would have ever thought @#$%&.com would have access to acid rod info?I'm from the south so please bare with me.LOL.We have a saying,A blind hog will find an acorn occasionally.Guess I'm proof of that. Thanks very much Sonny

Most important to include, Is do not use any type of lighting that has a yellow tint. Yellow ell not give you a true porospective on what your project. well look like outside
Good Wraps Bob

Good Wraps Bob

I use a 10x jewlers scope to mainly for weaves and guide wraps where I am only looking at a very section at a time.......but I also have 20/10 in one eye and 20/15 in the other so I'm sure that comes into play at times.