I have several rods that have begun to flake. I am talking about the finish on the actual blank, not the epoxy. You can rub your fingernail on the rods and what looks like dead skin comes off. These are saltwater rods - yes, they have been washed after use.

Is there something that can be done to stop this process, and restore the blanks? I ran a few searches, but came up empty handed. They are trusty old rods, and I hope to give them a new life. Thanks,

Travis

Travis, the hard part is not the restoring the look per se, as it is most likely removing the old flaky finish. Once you have successfully removed the old finish, there are products that you can use to refinish the rod.
Do not use epoxies desinged to bond or epoxies design to finish thread wraps.
You can use a variety of urethanes (spar for example), PermaGloss (you can tint with color if you want), or Rod Restorer (Gudebrod makes a couple of different types).
Many sponsors to the left would carry what you need and could help find the best product for you.

Hope this helps

To relly grt a factory finish. You have to do a very detail cleaning job, no pits, the whole rod must be deglazed with a gray scotch Brite pad all ares that are not to be covered with a finish must be masked off. When putting on a new cover coat, do it in adust free warm room. Home refinishing project are a pain in the back side if you have not familiarized your self with these refinishing products. You could belooking at a Failure in your job. What I have done in the past, is hve the rod ready to be finished. Take it to a auto body shop and have them finish it. I always had them add a flex aditive to their fishing product. I generall paid about 25 bucks a rod. Doing it this way I saved time and my rods came out like they were factory done. You finish product depends on how good a prep job was done.

Good Wraps Bob

Thanks for the help so far. It's good to know where to start. I'll research the products you mentioned Obed, and get started on deglazing. I also may consider using an auto body shop...I hadn't thought of that option.

Travis

Travis I for got mention use a gray Scotch Brit pad when deglazing. I would make a mixture of licquid soap and water, soak the pad and start deglazing when threw wipe it down with denatured alcohol and dry off with a lint free towel. wipe down again with denatured alcohol and dry off.

Good Wraps Bob

Does the Scotch pad have to be gray? I have green (heavy duty), and a "sensitive" kitchen style pad. I've been to two stores today, and did not find the gray. Is there any alternative?

Also, am I trying to get all of the old finish off, even the portions of the rod where it may look fine? 50% of the blank is peeling/flaking. I do need to get all the finish off for consistency, correct? (Except for the guides, which I will tape over during this...)

Travis: All the finish should be removed, Unless it is bonded tight, then you feather it down to where you do not feel the transitions edge. A auto parts store, hardware store, even a grocery store has these pads. I live in a community of just over 1,000 in Washington State. Where do you live? Maybe someone in your area can chime in.
Good Wraps Bob

Good Wraps Bob

Travis:
here: [www.rodbuilding.org]

And here; [rodbuilding.org]

I would strip the guides off. Scrap all the loose finish off. Then I would WET Sand the blank with 400 then 500 or even 600 wet sandpaper. When clean, dry well, very well !!
Mask the handle any any areas that you do not want paint on.
I put a paper clip on the butt end with tape to use as a hook to hang it up.
I use auto spray paint, DuPlicolor is good. Any auto store.
GOOD light, out side if you can. Put two coats on let dry after each coat. 20-30 minutes in warm area.
Check in good light for boo boo's.
Let dry overnight.
Wipe with I use a paper towel.
Apply one good wet coat of Permagloss
hang up to dry overnight.

Bill - willierods.com

You can use sandpaper, but be careful not to take off too much material. The green kitchen scotch pads are pretty agressive. The gray ones are better.

However you do it, you must remove all the finish where it has started to flake. These spots will be exposed if you just take off the loose spots only and will show through the new finish.

Permagloss works great for this task, tinted or plain. If you get too agressive taking off finish, you may want to tint it to remove any deep scratches.

Terry

Terry you made some excellent suggestions that I for got.
Good Wraps Bob

Good Wraps Bob

I have used a razor blade laying it almost flat to the blank and used it as a scraper. be careful not to cut into the blank. Like I said lay the blade almost flat to the blank. Scrap the finish off. Then sand it.

Bill - willierods.com

Are you saying, lay the blade horizontally to the blank? I well have to try that. I usually hold the blade at 90 degrees to the blank.

Good Wraps Bob

Yes. Once you get the right angle the blade will almost glide along the blank. Just don't cut into your fingers.

Bill - willierods.com

I refurbish a lot of rods and one rule that I have is to avoid using sharp bladed instruments as much as possbile. JMHO. C2

I use a old credit card

Good Wraps Bob

Hi Travis,
I don't necessarily worry about the "color" of the Scotch Brite.
Is it of a coarse or fine or medium abrasive texture?
I have had success using the coarse stuff to remove the old finish. Then use the fine to smooth things out. If the finish is stubborn, I use a razor held 90 to the blank, to scrape it off.
George