While working with Morris Schlesinger last week on preparations for his wood turning seminars at the Expo, I took some cork for him to look over. Although he's a talented and well known turner, he's never turned cork so he wanted to practice on some before the actual event.

The funny thing, is that he was kicking out the CG1 rings - the clear ones that were mostly free of pits and holes. He wanted "good cork," - the ones with character, i.e. pits, holes, figure, etc. I found that comment a bit ironic since we rod builders typically look for clear cork while the wood workers like material with "character."

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For him the good news is there is plenty of character cork out there.

Maybe it is time for rod builders to have a paradyme shift and start seeing the bad stuff as the really good stuff??

Hi,
I would rather have cork with character. Personally I think it produces a much cooler looking handle.

Mike

Mikes Custom Fly Rods

I got into wood-working before I ever got into rod building. So, I totally understand how he feels. When glued together and turned, I think the the mid-grade cork (i.e. CG2) makes a much prettier, more interesting grip than the clear cork. I don't think giant pits/holes look all that good to anyone, but good quality CG2 cork is quite nice. I especially like the look of the mid-grade cork when it's had a coat or two of Tru-Oil. The Tru-Oil really accentuates the small variations in the cork.

I also like the cork with character. But I do fill any very large holes that it may have. Then seal it well.

Bill - willierods.com

That is what cork beautiful to me, the pits, small holes, and cracks, the imperfections. Those little scuffs and impurities are what make each handle a one of a kind. If everybody wanted handles that were perfectly smooth and flaw free then we'd all use EVA and that would be no fun at all.

One mans trash.....is anothers treasure. ;)
I just do what works and looks best for a specific project. Naturally, I avoid the really bad cork. It just leads to more problems down the road.
Chuck

Think of the "beauty marks" as the checkering on a gunstock.

I reserve the CG1 stuff for those "special" projects: high-end rods, raffle rods, presentation-quality rods, etc. I use CG2 for everything else.


Walt

(with the right marketing) now let's see a switch in pricing for the cork grades.... i'd LOVE some CG-1 at CG-3 pricing. lol

eric
fresno, ca.

Fishsticks new Roddancer line of products includes "Pit Paste". It does a beautiful job of filling inperfections in the cork. From a style standpoint, I can tell you that cork is going to be huge in all the design markets such as furniture finishings, wall surfaces, and even upholstery. My personal favorite is a gorgeous photograph album I purchased recently. I expect this design trend will further fuel rod customer demand for cork appointments. I love the character of cork, but you can have too much of a good thing!

Hi out there!

I am new to this game and just finished watching Doc Ski's DVD called Custom Rodbuilding. Now, unless I missed it, Doc Ski shows how to glue/epoxy on one of those synthetic handle grips and the other technique about cork spirals, but not a whole piece of cork handle/grip. Here is what I have. I bought a Cabela's 9 foot steelhead rod kit to give to my steelhead fishing son when he turns 21 next month, and so I want to do it right. Question, do I just repeat what Doc Ski showed in his DVD using the set up prep and the same epoxy techniques as the synthetic handles (do you call them EVA?) Maybe I have some of this wrong and need to watch the video again (I will anyway and take notes) but I could use some quick advice because I need to order (I think) some of the reccommended materials like StaBond, etc., so I can begin.

Thanks for any advice you can give a new rod builder!

Brad Smith

There is an easier way to do it. Read the FAQs page (See FAQ #20) on installing EVA - it's quick, easy and not hard to clean up. It works with both EVA and cork, although with cork you need to ream/bore the grip so that you aren't forcing or stretching it into place. You'll split cork if you attempt to stretch it.

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Anyone who doesn't want their clear, or flor grade cork, I'll be happy to take it off your hands ;-)

I ditto George's answer.