I'm ordering parts to build a 6 wt salt water fly rod and have some questions on guides.

Which ceramic guides are the lightest, with out paying for titanium?

What should be the smallest size guide assuming there may be loop to loop connections in the fly line? 6MM?

Should I use single foot snake guides (nice and light) with the "locking" wraps?

Thanks,

Ernie

You're really the only one who can determine the smallest size guides that will work with your particular set up.

Locking wraps are always a good idea, mainly to keep from snagging and pulling the guides out when traveling or transporting the rod.

................

Check these out [www.americantackle.us]

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Ernie,

I like Bill's suggestion. I know you indicated that titanium wasn't first choice due to the costs involved, however our titanium guides are quite reasonably priced. Their positive attributes make them perfect for this project.

- light physical weight ideal for lighter fly rods
- flexible feet and frames
- slight arrow shape foot helping thread to lock the guide in
- shorter foot print reducing length of wrap and flat spot on blank
- Ringlock design will eliminate ring loss
- Nanolite inserts are extremely hard as well thinner and lighter weight
- Nanolite inserts have a slightly larger ID then standard rings making them ideal for knot connections
- titanium material will never corrode

I would go with all ceramics meaning single foot fly guides down to size 6mm and double strippers, maybe 16/12 or the standard for the line weight 12/10.

If you still don't want titanium, then our stainless frames offer all the Ringlock features as well as reduced weight and the Nanolite rings. The only difference is the frame material. Good luck with what ever you choose.

Best Regards,

Darrin Heim
American Tackle Company

Tip Top XTCFT SS316 Titanium Carbide Pltd Fly Top
Guides (see below for size and quantity) XTCSFGP SS316 Titanium Carbide Single Foot Fly Guide
Guides (see below for size and quantity) XTCLXNCG ALPS SS316-LXN Guide with Tich 'Z' ring -TiCH without chrome

Guide order from the tip top Guide Guide Placement - In inches from the tip top
1st XTCSFGP3 3.625"
2nd XTCSFGP3 8"
3rd XTCSFGP3 13.25"
4th XTCSFGP3 19.5"
5th XTCSFGP4 27.27"
6th XTCSFGP4 35.75"
7th XTCSFGP4 45"
8th XTCSFGP4 54.625"
9th XTCLXNCG10 66"
10th XTCLXNCG12 78"

Karry Batson
Batson Enterprises Inc.
Ph: (877) 875-2381
Fax: (360) 683-3579
karry@batsonenterprises.com
www.batsonenterprises.com

Ernie,

I have to agree with Darrin here, and I'm glad he brought up the shape of his guide feet. I use them for that reason alone. It eliminates the need for the Forhan locking wrap. For Titanium, they are VERY reasonably priced, corrosion proof, and super light-weight. Well worth the investment. And with Ring-Lock, they feature yet another added security - the combination of which is unparalleled in this industry.

Like Tom said, only you can determine the ring size required to pass your terminal attachments. I've personally come to "shy away" from loop to loop connections - just so I can utilize the smallest guides possible. If I were building your rod to throw a 6 wt. line, I'd likely end up with 5mm Am. Tac. Titaniums (ring lock) for running guides. If you're "hauling" during casting, consider placing your stripping guide somewhat "offset" from the very bottom of the blank so it's slightly "kicked" off line towards your line hand (maybe 20 to 30 degrees) to aleviate the radical line angle during hauling. To me, this is more important than stripper guide and subsequent transition guide(s) sizes.