I have been able to successfully get the grip/reel seat on, and did my first guide wrap last night. Definitely some truth to preparing the guide feet.....i did not do any filing/sanding and had some trouble getting the thread to climb.....had to double back a time or two to build it up.....will the very small hump disappear once finish applied? I am tempted to take it off and do it again.....thoughts? Also, the guide it just very sligtly off center (so small you have to really really look to notice it).......will this affect performance (7' spinning medium)....another temptation to give it another go......and lastly......the guide kit came with 6 guides and the tip.......i installed temp and tested with all guides and then left 1 out, seems to have better flow/looks better with tension applied with 1 left out........anything wrong with having parts left over? Thanks and I am hooked on this thing they call rod building already!!!!!!1 Can't wait to start the next one. Brent Glover/Washington NC

No, finish does not hide imperfections - it magnifies them.

That hump will also cause premature checking/cracking at the edge of the guide foot. Remove it and prepare it to a shallow taper. A year from now, you'll be glad you did.

Don't worry about what you sent in the "kit." You'll do better with your own testing and set up. Sounds like you're already on that track now.

Any guides that aren't perfectly straight can be adjusted with slight sideways pressure. If you can't move the guides after wrapping, you've wrapped them too tightly. Go for snug, not tight nor loose and you'll be fine.

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Thanks for the response......want it to be right so going with my gut, and your knowledge, and tonight she comes off for round 2! What is the best thing to use to taper the guide foot (sandpaper, pad sander??).....did manage to get a very nice looking ice blue and gold metallic wrap combo for the hook keeper......glad to get your response at this point b/c i wrapped the guide too tight b/c she would not budge........glad thread is teh cheapest part of the equation!!!! Will update as I progress.

You can taper them nicely with a flat file. Remember, most files cut in one direction only. So don't saw back and forth - take long smooth strokes across the end of the foot until you have almost a knife edge. Then use crocus or find emery paper to smooth the edge and bottom.

In past issues of RodMaker we've compared the various methods for shaping guide feet. One of the easiest is to use a belt sand with about 100 grit paper. If you have one, use it. Just go easy. Guide frame material will be removed very quickly with powered equipment.

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Brent,
Do you have any power tools?
If you do have a grinder, a fine grinding wheel works very well to taper the foot.
If you have an electric drill, you can get an inexpensive grinding wheel that you chuck into the drill to grind the taper on the feet.
If you have a belt sander, use fine sand paper on the belt and use it to taper the feet.

I personally like to use my 1X30 inch belt sander. I typically use 220 grit paper on the sander. It only takes a second or two to taper the feet using this method.

If you need to taper the feet of small guides and are having trouble holding the guides while tapering the feet, use a common sharpened lead pencil. The taper on the typical pencil will normally give a friction fit for most of the smaller guides. The pencil then acts as an extension to help hold the guide while tapering the feet.

Take care
Roger

Brent,
I use a flat file, with a fine cut to taper the top of the guide. Depending on the size of the guide, I use a rat tail file or a flat file to take material from the underside. Take a look at the fit, periodically. File and bend the guide until you get a smooth transition on top and a flush fit under the guide foot.
George

Another good tool to have for some guides is a round file for the bottom surface. Some of the inexpensive bridged guides create a hump where the bridge is soldered and the guide doesn't sit flush on the blank. The round file (various sizes of chain saw files) creates the curved bottom surface that makes a great fit, especially in the tip section of the blank.

Also, 3 1/2" bench grinder from harbor freight. One grinding wheel, one polishing wheel and it works really well and doesn't take up much room. $40. The belt sander is a litte more versatile as far as other tasks.

Terry

I use a Dremel or just regular sand paper to prep guide feet and either will do a good job.

Thanks for the great tips guys! Keep them coming. Will have more questions I am sure as I get further into this thing.

Am I the only one that noticed that Brent may really be Billy V. in disguise?? Ya gots to watch those teh's Brent, someone else has the patent on them!!!

Not Billy V, but definitely a frequent "teh" user........guilty as charged on that count. Thanks! Brent Glover/Washington NC