Question for you experts: If I want to add my signature to a rod would you use indian ink with pen or some other tool? Also do you epoxy over the signature or do you have to put color preserver and then epoxy i.e. what is the process? I have noticed that Mud Hole has what looks like a fine magic marker (Stock # IPEN-Color). If I use this pen what do I do to finish the job?

Bill, Fishing The Chesapeake

By almeans CP over the signature. I use the smallest neb on a quile pen. You can usre any kind of medium to write with like Testers model paints, inia ink if you can find the wight colod.
Good wraps Bob

Bill,
I have tried ink - lousy.

The best thing I have found is acrylic craft paint that you can get in any color in a craft store.

Also, the pen nib quality is important. I use Spencerian Velvet tip - made in England.

I apply a light coat of ThreadMaster - or FlexCoat if you wish - to the area to be inscribed. I generally do this before I wrab the butt section so I can center the inscription better.
After the TM is (very) cured I wet sand with 400 or 600 grit paper. Then I inscribe.

If your blank is "natural" graphite gray the pen nib will "bite" into the slight sanding groves on the blank causing uneven lettering. If your blank is painted gloss you will have to scuff it for the paint to adhere. Better to use TM and scuff that. The pen will move like butter.

Then I wrab fore and aft of the letting and then another coat of TM.
Note : you will want to put your wrap, which is forward of the lettering, on the intersection of the original TM so everything is level.
Herb

Thanks for your help. You have saved me lot of trouble and experimenting. I knew I would get a good answer on this board.

Bill, Fishing The Chesapeake

Bill,

In the arts and crafts store you will find a Speedball lithography pen, and along side it, they have several different colors of speedball pigmented acrylic ink. Comes in metallic silver, gold, white and black. Both are inexpensive.

This setup is flat dandy to write on rods with. The ink dries fast, can be wiped off with plain alcohol when mistakes are made and does a fine job. This needs NO CP over it, just put your finish coat right on top once your lettering drys. Depending on what I want, I may put the signature right on the LIGHTLY scuffed blank, or put a coat of finish on 1st. Once cured I'll put the signature on top of the finish and then re-finish over. I have not found a way this ink doesn't work! It works well every time and with multiple brands of finish. I let my signature dry about an hour then coat right over.

If you plan to use the lithography pen on top of finish, you must let the finish cure well, otherwise the sharp point of the pen will tend to grab the finish as your writing and make the lettering look rough. I dont scuff the cured finish before writing on it, I think the finish is normally soft enough for the ink and the topcoat to grab onto without any issues. I usually write on finish with speedball about 2 full days after application.

DR

I use a technical drafting pen with a 00 sized tip and opaque white ink.

I like to lay down a layer of finish. After that has set for about 12 hours I'll "haze" it over with a polishing cloth and then sign it. I find that the ink doesn't want to bead up on a "hazed" surface.

I give a very light spritz of artists spray fix. And then recoat.


.............................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Bill,
I have my wife use a fine Speed Ball nib and pen holder.
Then, I use Testors Model Paint.
To clean the pen, as well as the blank if needed, I use Xylene. It is very compatible with the paint and does an excellent job of keeping the fine slots in the pen qill clean.

Let dry for at least 20 minutes, and then use routine finish - as when coating guide wraps.

Take care
Roger

p.s.
I have tried all kinds of ink, nibs, felt pens etc. and have found that the afore mentioned items give me the best overall results.

I've had very good results with a crow quill pen from the local craft store. Only cost a few bucks and has very fine tip.
For ink I use calligraphy ink in gold and white and Windsor Newton silver. These inks can be thinned with water and
you can wipe any writing off the blank with a wet paper towel (but do it before the ink dries). I don't prep the blank before
writing and put finish right over the ink with never a smearing problem. The crow quill pen requires the ink be thinned a bit
to promote a good flow but fine line writing can be easily done. Use a piece of smooth paper to test write making sure the
pen will flow before writing on the blank. These fine point pens can scratch the blank if the pen doesn't flow ink when you
start writing.

John

Thanks everyone. I have printed you responses and I'll have to see what I can find in the way of supplies at the local craft stores. I'm looking forward to trying to write signature. I'm new at rod building and I have twin Grandsons which I hope to build them each a rod and put my signature for posterity.

Bill, Fishing The Chesapeake

Great. I am glad I saw this post. I have used a gelly roll metallic pen followed by a spray acrylic top coat. It was ok, could be better. Near the back of this Rodmaker is a short on signing the finished blank and there is a litho pen and some india ink . . . imagine that.
I think I would like to try the litho pen.