I've heard a lot of fellows using fiberglass drywall tape as arbor material. It seems to be a 2" mesh style tape. I'd like to know how you guys that use this material, use it. Are you making a full length arbor with it? or cutting the tape and making several 1/2-1" single arbors? And while we're at it, how are you keeping the tape from unfolding as you go while adding epoxy to the mesh tape as you wrap the tape over onto itself. Whats your "working" method? Do you feel this is "stronger" than the poly foam arbors?

DR

Here is what I do.

I cut the 3" wide tape into 1" widths.

Wrap the tape onto the butt, creating an arbor that is larger than required. Unwrap and cut off enough tape so that the seat is snug. I use two arbors on a fly rod seat.

Now mix the RodBond. Remove the seat. Unwrap the arbour until there are 3 or 4 wraps of tape left. Apply the eposy, forcing it into the mesh. once this is done, wrap 5 or 6 more turns of mesh tape. Apply more Rod Bond, filling the mesh. Keep repeating until all of the mesh tape has been rewound onto the rod, now slip the seat on. I do not fill the gap between the arbors with Rod Bond.

Is it stronger? Not sure, I have never used the foam arbors. I have not had a seat fail yet, but I have only build light fly rods at this point.

The mesh tape and epoxy is likely heavier than the foam due to the amout of eposy used.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

In my searching, I found someone using hot melt glue to hold the tape in place after the epoxy/tape mix was added to the rod and another that use's a 1/4" tape wrap and one that use's thread wraps. All neat ideas.

How did you cut that roll of 3" into 1" Chris? Doing ti as you peel it off or all at once? All at once would really be nice!

DR

I peel off a long strip of tape and tack it to the edge of my work bench. Then with a scissors cut strips of it. The width varies depending on the task at hand but usually 4 to 5 widths of mesh squares wide. I wrap that around my blank until my seat or what ever just slides over the top of it. I then cut it to length. If it takes more than about 5 or 6 wraps and the mesh squares aren't lining up, then I'll partially unwind and butter up my length tape and then rewind. If all the mesh squares line up pretty nice, I'll just apply the epoxy to the wrapped tape.

Holding it all together usually isn't a concern as I don't have that many wraps. Hot glue works well. But usually I hold it by hand with a dental pick until my part is sliding over the top of it all.

I really only use this method for applications where I need to build up 1/8" or less in height. Thicker than that and I think arbors are easier.

For really thin applications I often use A and/or D thread.


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Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

I simply cut the strip in half or thirds then do a trial fit with the reel seat. I add more or remove some as required. I usually like to have a 1/3 to 1/2 inch gap between the strips which I then fill with Rod Bond. I've not had to resort to any glue or tape to hold the material together. Good Luck.

Duane:

I use an Olfa type retractable knife and cut though the whole roll. By leaving a couple of wraps on the rod, I have been able to apply the epoxy without the tape loosening up.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

I broke my hand not long ago and when they were putting me in a cast, I talked the nurse into giving me a new roll of the mesh cast material. It looks just like the drywall tape but getts hard with the application of water. I cut it length wise into 1" strips. I then make three arbors. I wrap the mesh a little bigger than needed. I take it off, submerge it in warm water, shake the excess off, reapply to the blank and let it set up. After 10 minutes its hard. I dry it completely with my hot air gun and then sand it down to the right size, stopping to check the fit. It works PURFECT. The whole process takes 20-30 minutes. Since it sticks to itself, you only need to be concerned with getting the epoxy on the outer layer of the 'tape' (where it comes in contact with the reel seat). I use an 8"-12" strip to make all three arbors ( the roll is over 2.5" wide).
Dont know where else you could get this stuff, I just got lucky (or unlucky cause now everything is one handed).
Steven

I use Masking at each end of the reelseat. Then I wrap between the masking tape ends with the wall mesh tape. All tape is wrapped for a snug but not tight reelseat fit. The masking tape acts as a dam to keep epoxy from running and giving a better more even bond. I use a couple of glue gun spots to hold the mesh to the rod. After wrapping the mesh, I liberally work D2T into the mesh and on the masking tape. Then slide the reel seat on .

When I use it I use it full length and will only wrap it very thick if I have no
hard arbors and can't wait to get some. With RodBond I have not had
much problem with the tape unwinding and a piece of thread fixes that.

While the mesh tape is superior to masking tape it is by far, more time
consuming and difficult than the graphite foam arbors and requires less
clean-up work.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Steven,

I think you could find that mesh at any good medical supply house. Perhaps even online. Interesting idea. Going to be heavier than foam but still another idea to consider.

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Interesting idea on the cast material - might have to try it - wonder how it would hold up on a cow tuna rod???

Ted,
The stuff is rock hard. I have put my cast through the paces and its still solid. The two rods that I've used it on will be used for albacore and hopefully yellowfin this summer. We'll see. Not cows, but still a good pull.
Steven

So how strong is the bond between the blank and the arbor. Was looking at the material and was thinking of trying some. Online single 4yard role is near $5 case of 10 a little under $4. I know the crush strength of that stuff is way strong enough (whatever the correct term is - sorry Emory). I guess a small ramp made from rod bond would keep them from moving.

So does it shrink when it gets wet or expand as it sets. I see you use it and sand it down to fit. I'm starting all my salt water orders and a lot of them have slick butts