If you want a drying chuck and want to save yourself some money, it is easy to make some chucks for your dryer as follows:

Pick up some PVC pipe caps in a size that makes sense for your application. Possibly 1 1/2, 2, or 2 1/2.
Then, pick up some correctly sized couplers that will fit or nearly fit over the outside of the pipe caps.

I am basing this discussion on the fact that you have a lathe to turn down the caps.

1. I first chuck each of the caps into the chuck - with the open side bottomed out on the chuck.
2. Then using cutting tools trim the bottom of the cap to insure that it is flat.
3. With the cap still chucked in the lathe - insert a drill chuck in the tail stock and an appropriate sized drill bit for the size bolt you are going to use to hole the chuck to your dryer. Then, spin the chuck and advance the tail stock to get a perfectly centered hole in the cap.
4. Take the couple and use a clean up tool to mill out the inside of the coupler full lenght to insure you have a constant diameter from one side to the other. Flip the coupler as necessary to get both ends.
6. Then, use a parting tool to cut off a piece of the coupler about 3.8th of in inch in width. This 3.8th wide piece will be used to hold the taunt neoprene on the face of the cap.
7. Obtain some 1/32 or 1/16th neoprene - or even a heavy truck inner tube for the chuck material.
8. Now, put the cap back into the lathe, and using a sharp tool, mill down the outer 1/2 inch of the cap to a diameter that is equal to the diameter of the coupler, minus double the thickness of the neoprene you are going to use plus about another .010 inch.
i.e. you want room betwen the milled down cap for both sides of the neiprene, plus a bit extra to more easily slip the taunt neopren over the milled cap. Keep checking the fit of the ring, rubber and milled cap to get a nice fit.
9. Take a piece of your neoprene and cut it an inch or so larger than the cap.
10. Use a hole punch or scissors or razor knife to cut a hole of about 3/8th to 1/2 inch is size. The hole size will be dependent on how much the rubber stretches when you put it in place as well as the size of handle butts you normally build.
11. Finally, hold the neoprene in place and slip the ring over the neoprene, stretching it as you go. When the ring is in place, the neoprene will relax and get thicker holding it securely.
12. Use a razor knife or blade to trim up the neoprene around the bottom of the retaining ring.
13. Obtain a threaded coupler - typically 1/4 inch is about right for most drying motors. You can screw in a bolt of the appropriate size - typically 5/16th, if the hole is enlarged slightly and threaded. Otherwise, if you have a 1/4 inch threaded coupler you will be able to use a 1/4 inch bold to hold the chuck. Then, cross drill the bottom of the coupler and tap it for a set screw to hold the coupler to the motor shaft.

If you have average skills you should be able to knock off a chuck like this in about 5-10 minutes and spend about $1.

Good luck.
Roger

Got any photo's? This could help with a lathe newbe.

This sure comes at a great time!! I'm fixi' to build a 4 rod drier, and I'll need the chucks. Now I can build my own instead of buying 'em. Thanks Roger

Bill in WV

Roger,
How about some pix?? Pretty Pleeeze!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,
Here is a picture of the completed chuck:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Note the pvc cap, the slightly oversize ring made of a coupler, the neoprene holder with the 1/2 inch hole punched in to hold the rod and the coupler on the back of the chuck.

Roger

p.s.
If you have further questions, or need more pictures or detail - please drop me an e-mail at

hflier@comcast.net

Take care
Roger

I did something similar years ago for my first few driers, but figured that since I was at the lathe, I might as well just make them out of aluminum.
I bored out some 2" bar stock and then threaded them for both the adapter and four clamping screws. (I was using clamping screws to accommodate pistol grip rods). I like the idea of inner tube though but it may tend to dry rot or leave black marks with age?

I have a few with neoprene chucks, all have torn over time, any idea where to buy neoprene that would be appropriate?

If you want to do away with the neoprene and the metal band altogether get 3 or 4 thumb screws from the local hardware store - heat them and thread them into schedule 40 PVC tubing. When they are heated they will self thread. I'll try to post a picture or two shortly.

I tried to upload photos -- No Joy. I don't know why they didn't post.

Joe,
I picked up the Neoprene from the internet.
Just do a search on the internet, or on the @#$%& sites. You will find what you need. Typically, the neoprene sells for about $10 for a 3X3 foot piece.
I first tried 1/32 inch, but found it too thin. So, then I picked up a piece of 1/16th which is just right. Obviously, you have to change the amount of milling on the chuck, to accomodate the different thickness.

No, I have never had a problems with black marks being left on the handles.

I much prefer the use of the neoprene, because if you use the right neoprene and have it stretched right with the right size hole you will find that when you insert the rod butt and then pull it out a bit, you actually get a nice layer of about 1/8th inch neoprene holding the butt securely.

I also like the neoprene because it is quick, easy, non marking and trouble free.

I have had chucks using thumbscrews and find that I would often leave an indent in the rod handle. To overcome that, I would wrap the handle in masking tape, but than had the issue of leaving tape debris on the handle after drying. So, the neoprene takes care of these issues just fine.

If you have trouble finding neoprene, I think that the use of a heavy inner tube would work just fine as well.

Take care
Roger

I have a similar setup but instead of neoprene I cut the bottom out of a foam "huggie" can cooler. (Think beer...) Usually the bottom has a small hole so I used a knife and cut an "X" larger than the hole but centered on the hole. This allows the rod handle to be inserted without tearing the foam.

Same concept just a different way of getting there. If I had thought of it I probably would have used neoprene but I happened to have some "huggies" around the house.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN