I've read and reread the tutorial in the Library section on the website. The one question I still have is this:

When doing the locking wraps, has the thread been removed from the thread carriage OR is the thread being wrapped with a fly tying bobbin?

I can't figure out how to keep tension on the thread while keeping the thread on the thread carriage on a PACBAY type wrapping machine(no spring to keep tension like on a Renzetti) and still complete the locking wraps without removing the thread??

Any pointers?

Jesster.

You wind your thread up to the base of the guide eye as normal. When you are at the base of the eye, and when the guide is at the top, you take the thread in your hand, and wrap it manually around the base of the guide eye. Then you make another revolution of the rod until the guide is at the top again, and repeat the process. Do this three times, and you have completed the forhan wrap. I then make a couple more wraps infront of the guide and that's it. I always insert my loop thread (tie off thread) in about three or four wraps before I start the Forhan procedure.

That should be it.

Cheers
Harold

You don't take it off the spool nor do you need a fly typing bobbin. Your fingers can take up and control any slack.

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i reach up and grab the thread with one hand and go around the guide leg.then you can continue rotating the rod while still holding the thread to take up the slack. or you can use your other hand to rewind the thread spool until its tight again. hope this helps

Jesster,

I find it easier to strip out some thread (about 12" or so) and just cut it, then continue the wrap. I'll try to explain, I have the same wrapper you do.

Insert the finish loop about 3 turns prior to the base of the guide.
Once you've wrapped to the base of the foot, hold the thread with your left index finger (wrapping left to right). Strip out about a foot of thread and cut it.
Make the blocking wraps under power, but hold the tag end with your right hand. Most of the time, the blocking wraps under the guide foot will be captured and you don't have to worry much about tension on the previous part of the wrap after blocking wraps.
Make the 2 or 3 locking wraps around the guide foot. Just maintain tension with your right hand on the tag end.
Make 2 or 3 more blocking wraps and you are done. Insert into the finish loop.

As Tom mentioned, you can leave the thread on the spool, and just take up the slack with your right hand. I find it's easier for me to do this with the thread cut and a long tag end.

Email if you have questions.

Terry

I'm a little mystified by the "no spring to keep tension on" statement. The old-style PacBay carriage with the vertical spool holders has a tension wheel and the new ones (with the horizontal spool holders) use direct spring tension on the spool itself. Unless, of course, you're referring to the little spring hook affair that used to come on the old horizontal tensioners, which we always removed because they tended to shred the thread as it passed through.

But everyone's right - you con't need more than finger pressure to get the tension right for the locking loop.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

He's talking about a "reverse tension spring."

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