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drying motor construction
Posted by:
matt strother
(209.6.3.---)
Date: December 23, 2008 08:06AM
I am in the process of building my own drying motor. Everything was going fine until.......
I tried to attach the chuck to the motor itself. Here are the components that I am trying to put together. I am using a grainger gear motor: 3M099 18 rpm The chuck is just an end cap of pvc with a hole drilled in the middle. I have the motor mounted and it runs, but I have not devised a way of attaching the chuck. Orginally I thought I could just put some masking tape around the end of the motor and that would hold it, but it didn't. Then, I checked out my old flex coat dryer and I think the chuck is held on with epoxy, so i tried to use some rodbond to hold the chuck there. It worked awesome for, about 2 hours and then the motor heated up and broke the bond of the rod bond. Luckily, i went down and caught the problem, before the mess was too bad to clear up. Does anyone have any idea or insight into how to attach the chuck to the spindle of the motor? I am obviously not that handy, but handy enough ;-) Any thoughts are much appreciated. Matt Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Chuck Mills
(---.grenergy.com)
Date: December 23, 2008 08:31AM
I just drilled a hole in my PVC caps so they press fit on the shaft. TO fix your problem, go get some JB Weld and glue it back on. It will withstand some heat. The radio control car boys JB weld carbs into their engines with that stuff and it holds up. Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
matt strother
(209.6.3.---)
Date: December 23, 2008 08:47AM
Any idea how hot JB Weld can withstand.
This motor gets very hot. I mean hot to the touch. Thanks, Matt Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Chuck Mills
(---.grenergy.com)
Date: December 23, 2008 09:19AM
That doesn't seem right about the heat of that motor. You might want to call Grainger.
From the JB Weld website... Q: How much heat can J-B Weld withstand? A: J-B Weld (Part # 8265-S, 8265, and 8280) can withstand a constant temperature of 500 degrees F. The maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 degrees F for a short term (10 minutes). Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Barry Thomas Sr
(---.hsd1.nj.comcast.net)
Date: December 23, 2008 09:45AM
Matt; I have a E-Mail address for a person who will make a Coupler for you dryer but your E-mail is hidden junkmansj@yahoo.com Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
justin keithley
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: December 23, 2008 09:56AM
Go to mcmaster-carr and look the "shaft couplers"
get one that will fit the motor shaft and then just epoxy a machine screw through the pvc end cap of the same diameter. You could also get a machineable coupler and tap/thread one end to receive the machine screw. Regards, -Justin Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Bill Eshelman
(---.skylan.net)
Date: December 23, 2008 11:13AM
matt,
I have three dryer motors and they barely get above room temp. I would be very concerned about one that gets too hot to touch Bill Ohio Rod Builders Canton, Ohio Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.248.64.82.Dial1.Weehawken1.Level3.net)
Date: December 23, 2008 01:05PM
I have this motor 30 RPM [www.mudhole.com] and this chuck [www.cabelas.com] And never had a rod fall off. Or motor over heat. Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Roy Zeringue
(---.btr.bellsouth.net)
Date: December 23, 2008 03:00PM
Matt, I use JB weld to modify molds that I pour molten lead into. The lead I use is not pure lead, but has an addition of tin to it which raises its melting point.
The temperature of the lead when I pour it is around 700 degrees F. It'll work Roy Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: December 23, 2008 06:35PM
Matt,
It is very simple. Go to the hardware store and pick up a 1/4 inch aluminum threaded coupler. Then, go over to the set screw section, and find a couple of small set screws. Check the size of the set screws. Then, go over to the tool section and find a tap that will match the small set screw for the threaded coupler. Pick up the correct matching drill bit to match the purchased tap. Take the couple home, and check the coupler on your motor shaft. Most of these small motors are 1/4 inch in diameter. If so, great. Slip it over the shaft and see how far it comes down the coupler. Make a mark on 1/2 the distance of the motor shaft. i.e. you want to drill a hole in the side of the coupler and then tap it so that the set screw till tighten the coupler to the motor shaft. Put the chuck on the head of the coupler and use a washer on the head of the coupler if needed and also inside the coupler if needed. If you just have a 1/4 inch hole in the chuck, you can simply use the correct length 1/2 X20 threaded screw to bolt the chuck to the coupler. Tighten it all up and you will be good to go. Take care Roger Re: drying motor construction
Posted by:
Mark Hochstatter
(---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: December 26, 2008 09:43PM
I agree with Roger. I used a thread coupler and used the SWAG method. Put a set screw on the motor shaft end. You may want to use a couple set screws. I used a 1/4" thread coupler. I drilled out one end to about half way into the coupler to a full 1/4". The output shaft on my motor was 1/4". Then I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to shorten a 1/4" screw to secure the chuck. Works like a champ. If you want, you can use a little lock-tite on the screw for the chuck. It can't hurt. The thing with the heat coming from the motor concerns me though. That doesn't sound right. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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