I just completed splitting a tube on a 4.5 - 5 tube to fit a size 6 blank tip. The tube was Brass so had no problems while using Bills method.
I split it on the bottom side, all the way up to the end where the two ring braces are silver soldered inside the tube. I then used a Pin Punch the correct size to open the tube all the way to the end, between the braces. Left about 1/16 in. uncut on the end of the tube. The blank tip will go in plenty far enough. I split it on the bottom so the hump at the end of the cut , once the id is sized, would not be in the way of the line passing over the tube. This rod will be a conventional guides on top build. I don't think you can split a tube on one side , then enlarge the id. and not have the bulge at the end of the cut. Actually the bulge is all along the cut but it is more noticeable at the end of the cut.
Just wondering if it would make any difference , as far as structural stability, whether you split it on the bottom or the top.

Looks pretty nice considering it didn't have any blood in it when I finished !!

No blood? Sounds like the manufacturers should step it up a notch in the tip top department and increase tube sizes. Oops, just cut my finger off doing the same. I either need a band aid or a lawyer.

NERB that types with a bar of Ivory soap in his mouth.

To prevent blood loss I have come up with a way to hold them that is somewhat safer.
If you get an exacto knife into your finger you're going to need a needle and thread and maybe a trim wrap.

Thanks..got that covered.

NERB that types with a bar of Ivory soap in his mouth.

Jay-
Glue some inner tube to the inside of the jaws on a pair if miniature square nosed pliers to hold ring without damaging it-I got a pair at Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks. You could cut the tips off needle nose squarely to do same thing. Match cut off length to fit ring. Firm grip without damage-works well. Will hold guides for prepping as well

Chris

Chris, I drove a tiny finishing nail into a piece of wood. Slide the tip down over the nail, the little hole between the ring and the end of the tube.
Hold the tube between your thumb and fore finger with palm up and insert exacto knife. You are pushing the end of the tube against the little nail. Just like gutting a fish if you don't get your finger in the way.

I can't really contribute with any advice on how to easily split the tube, but I was wondering why even bother?

On the last 5 or so rods I have built (light to medium spin and fly) I have just bound on standard single foot #6 fly guide instead of gluing on a tip. The standard guide even with the binding and expoxy seems lighter than a tip and the rods seem to be more responsive. I haven't tried this with guides smaller than #6 but I expect the same to apply.

I haven't experienced any probelm with durability but I don't fish as often (or build as many rods) as I would like.

Have you tried just binding on a single foot guide instead of fitting tip? What are other's experience with this?

David

I believe many builders use the technique you are referring to and as far as I know it works just fine for spinning and spiral wrapped rods. (and maybe fly rods which I know nothing about)

From my prospective, the problem arises when you build conventionally with guides on top because you run into the problem that the line has the potential to be abraded by the tip of the blank on retrieval.

My customers adamantly object to this because of their fear of ruining their expensive fluorocarbon line; therefore, the decision to split a braced tube and avoid this problem.

The reasons Bobby stated are the reasons I elected to split the tube. And I think it will look better than SF guide tied on. Of course that's just my thinking.