For those of you getting into turning, it's important to have a way to keep your tools sharp.

Woodcraft has a special on that includes a slow speed grinder, Wolverine sharpening jigs and a wheel dresser all for $169. The Wolverine comes with a basic sharpening DVD that does a good job of getting you started. The basic jigs cover sharpening of gouges, parting tools and chisels, although there is a separate skew chisel jig sold separately. Of course, Woodcraft offers classes in turning and sharpening, as do other woodworking stores in your area.

I'd be interested in others that have used this sharpening system or have other comments on sharpening. I looked at the Worksharp 3000 (other insomniacs may have seen this infomercial, right after the Drill Doctor) but the Woodcraft salesman thought this was the better tool for lathe tool sharpening and it's less money.

Terry

They all work. I stay away from dry wheel grinders on my lathe tools however. I have a water wheel and don't have to worry about the tool overheating. There are a lot of really good sharpening systems on the market today, from the Wolverine, Tormek, Jet, etc., on to the newer sandpaper disc type sharpeners. All good.

But as you say, every turner needs to have a system for sharpening his tools, often. The difference in turning with a really sharp tool and a so-so one is night and day.

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I use the Wolverine system and really like it although it's the only one that I have ever used. I also recommend the Skew sharpening acc. also. I have the set up right next to the lathe and often sharpen every few minutes depending on the material

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Here is an article I just found. Might be of interest:
[www.woodcentral.com]

I have the slow speed grinder with the white wheels and the wolverine sharpening system from woodcraft. The sharpening system is a bit more pricey than you quoted when you add the cost of the diamond wheel dresser. (but it is a really nice wheel dresser) Basically, I like the system. But I would probably like some of the other systems as well. I also used to use a Makita flat, wet, wheel system. One advantage of the Wolvering to me is that I use it with my other shop tools and it makes a nice hollow ground edge that is easy to hone. The Makita could hone, but it was slow and only made flat edges. A plus for the Makita, and ther eason I used it, is that it does a good job on planer knives. (Now I have a little cheap planer with the inserted blades.) When rough turning on large projects, I just grind the edge and go back to the lathe with the Wolverine. Takes less than a min. to get back to turning. One thing that you can do with the Wolverine system is to rig up a air mist system to keep a mist on the edge while turning. I have not done that yet, but it is definitely on the to do list. And if you want to build something, the Wolverine seems to be to be based on an article in Fne woodworking about 20 years ago that detailed construction of a similar system including the air mist system. If you search the fine woodworking arcives you will find it.

I have the wolverine system with the woodcraft slow grinder. It's a great setup - I'd estimate 95% of guys in my woodturning club and others I've met use the wolverine system. If you are using HSS turning tools, there is no need to spray water on them, dunk them, or etc. They are very heat tolerant. However, when you sharpen, you use a VERY light touch, you aren't grinding the tool, you are sharpening it/touching it up. When I sharpen, I literally put no weight on the tool against the wheel, I just let the weight of the tool hold it onto the wheel, and I guide the sharpening with my hand.

I'm going to offer something a little different - hand sharpening.

The Smith's sharpening kits are not expensive and give you the proper stones for the purpose, and they use the diamond "grid" system to collect the minute metal shards and keep them away from the blade.

By doing it this way you learn the exact angle that's needed for your particular lathe tools. You can get back to a razor edge quite quickly with just a little practice. Then you can get one of the wet-wheel kits (I like these better than any dry-wheel system, to avoid overheating) and you'll know the correct angle you need.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods