I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

PG to gel
Posted by: jack richardson (---.virtdom.com)
Date: December 07, 2008 09:43PM

Many supplies here are in 2 wall mounted cabinets in a shop that is heated and has A/C.
Checking on things the other day, I looked at 2 bottles ( 4 oz. ) of PG. They were purchased
this past summer. Within several days the plastic caps were replaced with white "Testers"
metal caps. About 1/3 of one bottle was used on a project. Now both bottles are solid
gel.
My wallet is a little un-happy; but will recover. I've got a lesson to learn. Any ideas
what happened ? ? ( a search gave no info )

jocko

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: David Teague (---.asm.bellsouth.net)
Date: December 07, 2008 09:54PM

PG...starts setting up once air comes in contact with iT...it will eventually set up in the bottle...try keeping it in the refrigerator...that helps but doesn't eliminate it...just buy in smallest quanities as you can


Dave

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: December 07, 2008 10:05PM

Jocko,

Once you place the testors caps back on the bottles, you have to tilt them upside down one time and then sit them on the shelf. This gets PG around the edges of the cap and "seals" the bottle.

I have a bottle sitting here now that had about 3 rods out of it and it's still thinner than water.

Did you use the plactic cap insert out of the original plastic PG cap? You need to do that also, it fits right in the Testors cap.

DR

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: December 07, 2008 10:08PM

Permagloss is a moisture curing urethane. Once you crack open a bottle, the rest is history.

If you'll make up one of the cans for PG storage as outlined here many times, you'll find it will then keep indefinitely - for years and years.

..................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: December 07, 2008 11:33PM

"Once you crack open a bottle, the rest is history"

I have to dis-agree. My last 4oz bottle I had for a LONG time and used all but 1/3rd oz that did get thick. This bottle I have now still has 3oz + in it and it's thinner than water, it's several months old.

It's all about taking the time to "tip" as above, getting the top right, and tight everytime, and keeping the top off the bottle a very short time for each use.

DR

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.nj-01.cvx.algx.net)
Date: December 08, 2008 08:02AM

I have had it in the Refrigerator for over a year. It gets cold and thick but still works well. I just take it out and let it get to room temp.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: December 08, 2008 08:46AM

If you live in a part of the country where the humidity is extremely low, you may be able to keep an opened bottle for quite some time. But not indefinitely.

A frost free refrigerator removes moisture from the air inside - this is why PG will last longer when kept in such a refrigerator.

Anything you do to keep moist air from it will help, including as DR mentioned, pouring out what you need into a small container and quickly capping the remainder in the bottle.

The can mentioned above, is still the best way to keep PG indefinitely. If you use a lot of PG, buy enough to fill a half pint can and you'll have a lifetime supply that will never gel or harden on you.

................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.nj-01.cvx.algx.net)
Date: December 08, 2008 09:32AM

What I do is poor what I need to use into a mixing cup. Then wipe the top threads off with a paper towel, well. replace the top - not overly tight.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Bill Stevens (---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: December 08, 2008 09:43AM

Regular use of Perma Gloss - frequent opening - daily/weekly use -

- Is managed quite will by the use of a can.

The can is filled with two four ounce bottles to insure all air is removed during initial seal.

I can probably do 200 or more bass/inshore rods with a can full. The can allows use to the last drop.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

If a life time guarantee on a never ending Perma Gloss supply in the can was offered it sure would be nice -

Gon Fishn

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Billy Vivona (---.ny325.east.verizon.net)
Date: December 08, 2008 10:11AM

I got a can from SAmmy Mickel at the last Expo in Charlotte, I think 2005. Filled it with a 4oz bottle of PG, and I still have no problems with it, and I rarely use it, maybe 5 times a year.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.airproducts.com)
Date: December 08, 2008 01:00PM

I don't use Permagloss on a regular basis but ordered a small bottle recently. I'm considering driling a hole in a Testors lid, inserting an eye screw, and placing that lid on the Permagloss bottle. I'd wrap the base of the lid with electrical tape to help seal the lid. Similar to the sealed can concept. I plan to store the glass bottle with the lid down. Thoughts?

Jeff



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/08/2008 01:22PM by Jeff Shafer.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: December 08, 2008 02:54PM

Jeff,

The Testors caps ONLY FIT the 4oz PG version!!

DR

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: PG to gel
Posted by: Eric Nelson (---.dhcp.ahvl.nc.charter.com)
Date: December 08, 2008 08:26PM

I do not have PG, but I have Dick Nite's moisture curing urethane. (Not for rod building purposes) Once this stuff sets up it will form a hockey puck. If you get any on the lip or threads, it will seal a can shut and you will need a vise and hammer to open it. I have however managed to keep the last quart I purchased flowing freely for more than the last year. Setting in the kitchen on top of cabinets. Average temps 75-85 degrees.


1st) Upon opening the first time, I used a turkey baster to transfer all the urethane to smaller containers (8 oz. Canning jelly jars with sealing lids and separate rings.)
2nd) Wipe any excess or drips from jar with virgin lacquer thinner
3rd) Place Vaseline on the threads and lip of the jar. (This ensures that if any liquid is ever left on the jar that it will not seal completely upon curing.)


Anytime I need to get any out, I just follow the same steps. I take out what I think I will need and discard any leftover. I never allow excess to drip off the baster back into the jar I am drawing from. (If you drip back or double dip into a can of D/N it will set the whole can off in a few weeks time.) In doing so, it keeps the amount of exposure to humidity to a minimum. I open and close the main jar as quickly as possible.


Eric

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster