Since I will soon have the materials to put all of my research to use I just need the answers to a few problems that I cannot figure out. For one thing, how do I figure out what size winding check i will need. Is there a specific height on the blank that I can measure the diameter at? or do I have to put the whole handle together first and then measure and then send for the winding check?

I have also had trouble finding information on how to do a tag wrap. If anyone knows of any link or something I would appreciate it, because they just seem to narrow to start and finish in all of about what 10-15 wraps?

Should all cork handles have cork sealant applied to them, even cork handle kits from st. croix that are practically all done for you, or just on cork handles that you shape yourself?

Can I paint the frame of cheaper guides, of course i wouldn't paint the center ceramic ring or whatever, but i have heard that you can paint your blank and put a clear coat over that, so if you can paint that then can you paint guides, how about reel seat hoods?

I almost bought a mini lathe so that I could turn my own cork handles, but I didn't have the money, now there is a big sale at harbor freight but only on full size lathes.Does anybody know of any problems that might arise with using a full size lathe as apposed to a mini lathe, like I thought that maybe making a fore end would present problems on a full size lathe?
And as always, I would love any tips you could give me that you would have liked to have known when you were getting started in this.

Thanks,
James

James,
If you unhide your e-mail address, I will send you some info. I wouldn't paint the guide fromes or seat hoods. It more than likely wouldn't hold up with use. As far as painting blanks, it can be done but it's not quite as easy as it sounds. There would be a pretty good learning curve and unless you have experience with different types of paints and spraying, you might want to hold off on that.

A tag can be wrapped in 10-15 turns but that's a fairly long tag depending on the type of rod. Cork sealer is a personal preference. I like it (I prefer Tru Oil) but it's not mandatory.

Winding checks are also optional. If you use them, you will need to know the diameter of the blank where it will go. You might ask the vendor to fit one to the rod before he ships it.

I turn EVERY one of my grips in either burl cork, wood, acrylic or a combination This is just my opinion, but I would definately avoid a "cheap" lathe and stick with a known one. such as Turncrafter Pro (Penn State Industries) Jet, Rikon, Delta, etc. Turning is an addiction in itself)There are severe limitations on many of the cheap lathes. You want to make sure that any lathe you get has a #2 Morse Taper"through the head" headstock and will accomadate standard chucks, mandrels and accessories. Keep in mind that the lathe itself is just a part of your cost. You will need chucks, tools and a way to sharpen them.

A very good way to get started with turning cork and EVA would be with a Grizzley Hobby Lathe [grizzley.com] Quite a few builders use them. I used one for several years and really liked it until I decided I wanted to do other things besides cork. I would suggest getting the 1/2" drill that they sell also,

If you haven't already done so, I would urge you to get a copy of Rodbuilding Guide by Tom Kirkman, it will be the best $15 you will spend!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

James,

You do not want to build a rod by "internet." Do your self a huge favor and purchase the required background information. Flex Coat's How We Do It DVD is excellent and will save you a ton of headaches.

This forum is great for filling in the holes, but you don't want to rely on any web forum as your sole source of information for building that first rod.

..................

Sorry Mike, new guy. lol my e-mail is jwgottabass@yahoo.com, thanks for the help and I appreciate any more you can give me.
James

Thank's I will check out that information media, I have been trying to decide what book or dvd to get, but I figured out most of what I need to know, except for what I have asked here, and you have done an excellent job answering me. Thanks. one last thing though, on the tag wrap i wasn't really asking how many wraps it is, but rather how to do it, I don't understand how you can start and end a wrap in such a short distance. Thanks again guys.
James

The books have that information in step by step photos. It's done just like a guide wrap but without all the wraps in-between. Same tie-in and tie-off, just done almost simultaneously.

............

I just ordered the book, thanks for the tip, all that kept me from ordering besides money of course was making sure that actual veteran rod builders found it useful. I will have it in four days and have it read 1 day after that, lol. Thanks again.
James

DO NOT buy the Harbor Freight lathes. Stick with the major brands -JET, TunCrafter, etc.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Regarding winding checks-you can assume there will be a little taper from the butt diameter and order the soft pliable ones a little undersize and they nicely stretch to fit many sizes. I use them, and when I finish the rod, I apply finish right up over the check, careful not to get it onto the cork, and they sort of disappear into a nice curve of finish. If you use metal checks, then they have to be very accurate to the diameter at the point on the blank where they will be, I believe. But I don't use them.

Regarding turning cork, you can do it quite nicely, but not as efficiently, by using threaded rod, nuts and washers, and a drill press. I drill my cork out to 5/16, use 5/16 drill rod, and have a 5/16 bore ball bearing sunk into a board which I clamp to the bed of the drill press (this forms a solid bottom support for the drill rod). It works fine, and may be the way to go if you are tight on space or have no other uses for an expensive lathe. A down side to my method is the butt piece of cork will have a 5/16 inch hole in it. I mix a paste of cork dust and epoxy and fill them in, and you have to really be looking to find the hole or evidence that one was there.