I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.phil.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 27, 2008 01:40PM

Over the past six months I have used CA as a finish on some wood reel seat inserts. I generally build the CA to beyond my desired final diameter, wait a few days, and wet sand it down to the diameter required by the skeleton hardware. This process results in a very level finish with no wood grain depressions.

Today when I looked at a few of the inserts I noticed that the CA appeared to have cured further. I can now see depressions and grain indentations that were not there a few months ago.

Have others who use CA noticed this?

Jeff Shafer

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Mark Blabaum (12.213.112.---)
Date: November 27, 2008 05:31PM

I've never had a problem with the CA finish itself. I have had some issues with the wood below the finish from time to time. I usually let my wood sit for a week to make sure that the moisture levels stabilize, if it needs to be resanded it's much easier before it's installed on the rod. I have had a couple of pieces, (burl is the worst) that will have strange grain movement after it's turned.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Anonymous User (---.ptld.qwest.net)
Date: November 27, 2008 08:02PM

Like Mark says the wood it's self changes different moisture content any and all weather conditions that change from the time you turn it till the time you finish it, all will effect the finished look. I did a five different wood glue up let it set for a month then started to turn it didn't finish the grip because some where along the line one piece of wood moved some how. The lamination's didn't come out right so started another one. Lots of things can change from one reel seat insert to the next, different wood different part of the year, so on and so on. with the CA if you can put on another coat or two or a coat or two of True Oil or spar varnish, should take care of the finished look.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Rich Schwarz (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 27, 2008 09:14PM

When you are using CA as a finish what do you use to get that final high gloss finish? Is it fine sandpaper or some sort of polishing compound?

Thanks,
Rich

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.phil.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 27, 2008 09:41PM

Thanks everyone,

Rich,
I use both. First I sand with progressively finer sandpaper (to 2000 grit) or micromesh, then successively finer auto polishes. Very fine scratches may still remain.

Jeff

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Mark Griffin (---.socal.res.rr.com)
Date: November 28, 2008 01:34AM

Mark Blabaum gave me the intial directions for the CA and I have since changed it a bit, but it does work.

For me, first coat wait 15 minutes, 2nd coat wait 20 minutes and the final coat wait an hour prior to sanding.

Then wet sand it down starting with 320 grit (seems to work well for me to smooth it out) Then wet sand 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000. Then I use the cloth paper (micromesh) all the way to 8000 grit. Then using a Dremel, I polish the wood, ivory etc. to a high shine with ZAM, followed by White Diamond

Hope this helps................make no mistake, Mark is the Expert and I OWE him for this technique. I am able to work this stuff and like I said, I changed the technique a bit from his recommendations to suit me and that was based on my results using the CA........but it is still in the ballpark of his technique.....................

I REPEAT. I am NOT taking credit for his finish......MARK IS THE MAN and I would like to thank him for giving me another finish that seems to work really well for me....THANKS MARK!

I will post a pic of the results I am getting using CA

Didn't mean to be so long winded.......

Terry



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2008 01:40AM by terry henson.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.phil.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 28, 2008 10:47AM

Thanks Terry and everyone else,
It isn't so much technique I'm interested in. The finished product after application and shaping looks great. I'm most interested in learning when CA, used as a wood finish, stops shrinking. The irregularities I'm now seeing seem to result from the finish contracting with time, not from the wood fibers shifting (several of the inserts were made with stabilized wood). Pores or eyes in the wood that previously had been smoothed over with CA now are showing as depressions, as the CA has shrunk.

Jeff

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Rich Schwarz (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 28, 2008 09:54PM

Jeff / Terry - Thanks for the information - I didn't mean to high jack your thread

Rich

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 29, 2008 12:25AM

Jeff,
After coating with CA and letting it set for a day, use a heat gun to go over the CA. If there is any CA that has not completely cured, the heat will KICK the CA and finish the cure.
Sand down, and give it another coat. Let sit for another day - kick it with the heat, and sand down.
I expect that you will find no more faults in your finish.

Take care
Roger

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: CA as Finish Cure Time
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.phil.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 30, 2008 09:59AM

Thanks Roger,
I'll try heat and multiple coats.

Jeff

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster