The other thread posted on cleaning thread went over to arbors and tape as a side track and I mentioned using the the blue painters tape as a tack cloth and then it moved onto NOT using the same blue tape as a arbor, and the drywall tape came in and so on.....

It all got me to thinking (I only use the brick foam arbors) about why the masking tape arbors fail and thats due to WATER getting to the tape and breaking the tape down. It was basically said that if the tape was completely sealed in epoxy the tape arbors would never fail.

Now, with the types of tape made today, what kind of result would be had with a PLASTIC tape being used as an arbor? Something akin to black electrical tape? or one of the many choices we have today in tapes.

Has anyone fooled around with this any? Or would the mositure break down the GLUE on the tapes and still have to be fully encased in epoxy?

I'm not planning on changing away from the brick foam at all, just thinking outloud.....

I'm really interested in Billys find of the 16lb foam that Scott is selling as well. I've not had a FC one fail, but a little more strength sure wouldn't hurt any.....

DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2008 11:51AM by Duane Richards (DR).

Water isn't the only thing that breaks tape down - masking tape is designed to break down all on its own. It's not made for use in permanent applications.

I've done repairs on rods that had loose seats and the tape within had never been wet. But it had been hot and gotten old and the adhesive between each layer had turned to dust.

Another problem you run into with any sort of tape, particularly plastic tape, is that they're not rigid. They have a lot of give and this only gets worse the more layers you apply. For the best mount, sensitivity, durability, etc., you want something that's light, yet very rigid. Tape doesn't meet this criteria

There are many types of vinyl and plastics that epoxy won't adhere to - this could be another problem with a plastic tape.

Sure, masking tape works and often for a long, long time. Most commercial rods use it. But keep in mind that most commercial manufacturers consider the life of a rod to about 3 years.

.................

Years ago I found some cloth tape; it came in several colors. I used it with no apparent
problems. Early this tear I looked for it at a hardware store. The salesman said he
remembered it but it was no longer stocked.

Now on hand here is tape that is clear with strands of fiberglass encased throughout.
It is made for strength and is used for packaging.
There are 2 brands: - - - -

1.- On the inside of the roll: - "tesa" [small letters]; & "ttl" [small letters]; & "New Rochelle,
NY [ 11/16" wide ]

2.- On the inside of the roll: - "ANCHOR" [caps ] ; & "Made in USA; Anchor Continental, Inc.
Columbia, SC 29208" & "1/2" X 2160 in"

These tapes cannot be torn by hand; must use shears or whatever.

TOM - - - You may be familiar with these tapes around your busines; if not
I will gladly send a sample - let me know

Considering the nature of electrical tapes and others, wouldn't that make a rather heavy arbor? I used to use masking tape all the time on fly rod seats, but the sheer amount of epoxy used has to be heavier than the FC arbors, at least the way I used it.

Really, I don't view the strength thing as much in relation to the arbor material as it is in relation to the reel seat material. Have always found it considerably easier to remove/break bonds between the adhesive and reel seat than anywhere else on a rod. Water break-free finish be darned, reel seat and handle materials are held in place more by a contour fit to glue than any type of serious adhesion to it's surface. Sensor type tubes are incredibly easy to remove and thumbnail epoxy off of...that said, I've never had any reel seat fail to remain in place while fishing. Guess it just doesn't take THAT much to hold it in place in the long run, those little glue tracks inside some of these seats do their job quite nicely.

Jack,

You can buy cloth tape at most any real sporting goods store that services boxers or contact sport athletes.


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If the 8# foam is fine for handles, wouldn't 16# be overkill for arbors?

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AD

Yes. The Flex Coat type are about 8lb density and that's about all you'd need on any rod.

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The 8# that Scott poured for me felt harder and was harder to dent than the FC arbors. I don't know what teh # density ws on teh FC arbors, but it felt more like the 4# arbors Scott sent me.

I broke a rod and when I went to remove teh reel seat I noticed teh front of the arbor was not tight fittign to teh blank, it had an oval hole, which made it seem to me like it had worn down underneath teh reel seat from teh blank flexing. Since this was on a FW rod rated 1/2 - 1oz, and I build a lot of rods much heavier than that - I lost confidance in the FC arbors for teh heavier stuff, and went looking where I can find a stronger foam. TEH othr thing I have noticed is on Offshore rods, some people REALLY tighten the reel seat, which flattens teh reel seats and distorts them. On a DPS-H 22 & 24 seat putting 16# foam underneath instead of a FC arbor makes me feel a heck of a lot safer in the long run.

The biggest problem with something like arbors is IF there is a problem with them where they are wearing out underneath teh reel seat - its' going to take a few years for problems to crop up. I'm not saying the FC arbors are "Bad", I am saying whatever caused my particular arbor to have a hole worn out like that made me want to find a stronger arbor.

And...as little as an arbor of poly weigh's no matter the density, I think stronger wouldn't be a bad thing at all.

DR