I am getting ready to replace my grizzly hobby lathe with full mini/midi lathe set up. I was wondering if anyone has suggestions or a list of what accessories and tools are needed (or importantly not needed). I plan on turning cork and getting into wood and acrylics. Thanks

You might cringe at this but first, I would recommend that you get the extension bed with it (makes life a LOT easier when boring out stock) You will want a drill chuck for the tailstock for boring wood, acrylics, etc. A 4 jaw chuck (make sure that the jaw capacities will suit your needs - they are not all the same.) As far as tools, preference plays a big part in this but I would recommend a spindle gouge, parting tool and skew for starters. Round nose scraper is very useful also. I wouldn't buy the short pen type tools but would go for the full size ones as you will probably go to them eventually anyway. The most important (in my opinion) thing is a method of sharpening your tools. This can be critical. I may sharpon my tool several times while turning a grip. Everyone has favorites but I use the Wolverine sharpening system. I would also recommend a variable speed if you can, Not vital but really nice

I would highly recommend that you order a catalog from [woodturnerscatalog.com] They are a GREAT source for everything that you use from tools to wood/acrylic stock

These are just my opinions!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I ditto Mike's recommendations and would add a tool sharpening class if you're not already adept.

Mikes advise is right on the money. The only thing I differ on (and this is personal preference) is that I prefer the smaller pen making tooks over the full size gougers etc. I bought sets of both, and I find working on the smaller reel seats in wood and acrylics is much easier (for me) with the smaller tools.

Cheers
Harold

If you buy one of the newer, longer lathes, such as the Rikon or the new Delta or Jet, you'll have an extra 4 to 5 inches of bed length and may not need a bed extension.

Figure out what you need lengthwise and remember that bed length is without centers in place - in other words you lose about 4 inches or so once you add a chuck and live center. Subtract that from the "distance between centers" and see if you have enough bed length open to do what you plan to do.

I'd buy a good scroll chuck, a Jacobs chuck for the tailstock (boring) and a roughing gouge, bedan or wide parting tool, and a narrow parting tool. Those are about the only lathe tools I use much.

A good means for keeping those tools sharp is also a wise investment.

...............

All great advice ... and if your drill chuck is the same taper as the headstock (it is on most) they are great for holding mandrels for turning cork.

I have been looking for a sharpening class myself ... any idea's on who to check with???

..................................................................................g

When considering bed length for boring stock be sure to consider the drill length. For instance an 8" pc of stock in a 4 jaw chuck and a 10 or 12" bit in a jacobs chuck adds up to about about 26/28 inches of bed length needed

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Gene, if you have a Woodcraft store close by they have how to classes just about every day and night on various topics. I think the last time I was in there there was a sharpening class listed.

The WoodTruner's catalog, Penn Stat Industries, and Woodcraft all are great resources although I personally like WoodTurner's best..

For larger tools, look a the Sorby line and several others of that style. You can spend good money for perfectly good HSS tools, or more money for cryo or carbon steel and such - depends on what you want for holding an edge. As so many have advised me, no matter what you buy, the "fine" edge is gone within 2-3 seconds of starting the work, and what's left is the actual cutting edge, With HSS, the advice has been 5 mins of work, and a coulle minutes of sharpening.

I have a 3/4" straight-edge, oval skew, and a 1" spindle gouge, for rounding blocks and getting a good rough shape. I have a smaller set that includes a 1/4" skew, a 1/4" spindle gouge, and a 1/8" parting tool, as well as a small bowl gouge. These are also good quality tools - I hate to say it, but stay away from Harbor Freight tools 'cause they will disappoint. Mine all came from Woodcraft, in fact, at the last High Point Show.

As for sharpening, I don't know how much experience you have with using stones but I wouldn't touch a wheel setup, wet or dry, until I could put a sharp edge on my tools by hand. If you can sharpen a hunting knife to a razor-edge you can sharpen your lathe tools. Then you'll have a sense for the angles that you need to use to get a great edge. I looked at a lot of wheel alternatives but finally stayed with a little Smith's kit that uses diamond stones and includes oil, and I supplemented that with my old Washita stones that I still use for my hunting knives. This isn't meant to be a brag, or a negative for the sharpening units, it's just what I'm comfortable with after so many years, even though I'm very new to lathe work. The sharpening wheel units, especially the wet-wheel ones, are really neat and can do what I do by hand in less than half the time, but sharpening by hand gives me a little break during the turning and is a nice quiet thing to do of an evening as well. Read a book or two about turning - most have a chapter about sharpening, and so do some of the DVD's you can get.

Uncle Russ



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/25/2008 03:37PM by Russ Pollack.