I'm trying to do a decal making experience follow the Dave Rogers excelent tutorial .
I overcome some initial trouble (test phases to keep confidence with this specific art), but now I'm in front of a wall.
When the decal is ready to be applied (it has a black background), I put it into a cold water and after about 60 sec it is ready ! But I note a lot " vertical scratch" on it, practically it become unusable.
Pls Does anyone could you help me ?

Marco

The article which Jimi Ellis did for us cautions not to leave the decal in the water for more than 5 seconds. If you allow it to stay submerged for more than that, you begin to lose the adhesive on the decal which then causes it to appear cloudy on the rod. Jimi provided some specifics which are also on the Decal Connection website.

...............

The decal paper I use is a 30-45sec adhesive removal and I usually leave it in about 15seconds. Much more than that and I experience the same thing you have.

Marco,

In reading and understanding your concerns, it doesn't appear that you are have a problem with the decals RELEASING from the backing paper. It appears to be a quality issue with the decal. Was the surface of the decal fragile before wetting or did it becaome that way after wetting? Were these custom decals or decals mass produced?

It sounds like a problem I encountered while making full color decals on "WHITE" background waterslide paper. Even the ALPS MD5000 did not allow the pigment to properly adhere to the decal film and I discovered that the decal's surface was easily damaged and therefore did not continue with that technique. I did not have the same issue with regular clear waterslide paper, just the paper with the white film.

Decals should be wetted in WARM, distilled water for just a few seconds and then allowed to sit quietly to properly "release from the backing" paper. Sufficient wetting time, noy in the water, should be allowed for the adhesive to become soluable enough to be removed WITH THE FILM to allow proper adhesion to what ever you intend to apply it to. I let mine set for about a minute while I prep the rod area. Then I apply the decal, let it properly dry, and then apply the epoxy.

I hope this helps.

Keep 'em turnin'

Charlie

tightlinerods@aol.com

Charlie,
You have understood well, I don't have a problem with the decal releasing from the backing paper. The surface of the decal was become fragile after wetting ( I made a full black color custom decal on clear waterslide inkjet paper, just the paper with the transparent film. I bought some sheet of it from MerrickTackle. Unfortunately I don't know its specific adhesive removal time to use it in correct way ). Reading about your method to use the decal, I found my incorrect way to use it ! For example I don't use warm water and moreover I leave the decal into the water for about 60 sec. to wet it.
I'll try to use your advises, in the hope that all works fine...

Thanks
Marco

Just a question Charlie, Do you use the epoxy directly on the decals?

Marco, you likely have the same decal paper I do. It does not require Microset/sol however only leave it in the water for about 10-15 seconds. and then do exactly as everyone above has said. I don't do a LOT of decals have done enough to figure out the paper I am using. Let it sit for another 30-40 seconds OUT of the water and the backing will come off rather easily while still maintaining the adhesive film.

I like to also dampen the blank where the decal will reside so it is easier to move a little to straighten it out as I almost never get it perfectly straight setting it down.

Warm vs cold distilled has not seemed to affected the film release on this particular paper although I have tried.

Marco,

Yes I do apply epoxy directly over the decal and the associated area.

After the initial thin layer of epoxy to the blank has cured, I apply the decal and let dry thoroughly. Then with a 1" sable brush, I "wisk" away any debris that remains from the decal installation, such as lint from the tissues used to absorb the excess water from decal installation. I then apply epoxy to the guides first to allow the epoxy to thicken a little before I apply to the decal area. I feel nothing should be applied between the decal area and the first coat of epoxy. Additional coats of epoxy on the decal area are first out of the batch as they will be thinner. I use Threadmaster Hi-Build only.

I hope this works for you and e-mail me if you need more assistance.

Charlie

tightlinerods@aol.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2008 12:26PM by Charlie Armontrout.

I have a photo printer that makes real nice 5 x 7 prints and thought I'd try it out on some waterslides. It did print well on the white decal paper but it left a set of vertical "scratches" on the clear decal paper. The rollers are very close together and they have nubs that actually lifted the ink off of the plastic surface. The rollers on my regular 8.5 x 11 inkjet are much farther apart and they have a bigger, smoother, softer, surface area that doesn't harm the image on the clear decal paper.

When you guys are printing decals with an inkjet do you use the "glossy photo" paper setting for the printer? I've tried, but have not yet gotten a good, rich, looking print on decals.

thanks, Mick