Has anyone applied a decal over a thread underwrap? Do you do the color preserver, then decal and then rod finish? I started wrapping rods about 30 years ago, but I'm just getting back into it since I've retired. Thanks.

Hi Jimmy - a decal can certain be placed on a thread underwrap as long as there is a coat of finish applied first.

Examples: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Go to the Decal Connection site on the vendors list to the left and you will find instructions for dealing with most circumstances.

Welcome Back - This is bettr dan wurk!

Gon Fishn

Jimmy,

Is the decal a waterslide or a peel & stick? Finish the thread as you would do normally either with CP then epoxy or just epoxy depending on the look you desire. Ensure the area for the decal has good epoxy coverage so you can have the best possible surface on which to apply the decal. Be sure the epoxy has cured sufficiently, at least 24 hrs, before you apply the decal. If the epoxy is the least bit tacky, the decal will grab prematurely and cause severe amounts of grief. I feel this method of application would be suitable for either type of decal. Then epoxy over the decal to the desired finish.

If the underwrap is a single layer of thread, you should have no problems at all. If the underwrap is a decorative, multi-thread buttwrap, the decal is still thin enough (.0005") to flow over any uneveness in the threads. Again, ensure there is ample epoxy coverage for a smooth surface, not necessarily level as on the blank, just smooth.

Good luck and Keep 'em turnin'.

Charlie
tightlinerods@aol.com

I've done quite a few waterslides on top of threads. As Charlie said, make sure you have a smooth surface. A good coating of CP or even a thin coat of epoxy may still show ridges from the threads; the waterslide decals are thin enough to conform to the thread ridges but you'll need to carefully press out any air pockets trapped under the decal; I like to use a damp sponge for that. Peel and stick decals are much thicker and the air pockets caught in any thread ridges will be much more difficult to press out. Clear decals show the trapped air much more so than the paper decals. If you miss a bubble in a paper decal you may not notice it until the whole thing is epoxied and then you see the discoloration it creates. With a clear peel and stick decal I'd make sure you have a very smooth surface with no thread ridges. A clear decal will also develop a haze underneath if the CP or epoxy you used wasn't totally cured. Once I have the decal in place I like to give it a coat of CP paying special attention to the decal edges to make sure there are no bubbles trapped in the nooks and crannys; to help with this I'll round the corners and cut the decal at an angle that tapers the edges to the blank.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks for the information. I really appreciate the help.