Hello

Been building for a few years now. Built a dozen rods so far, looking to improve my work. I have built a rod drying box and am working on creating a thread finish station with a shelf/hand rest, this should help my thread finishing.

Been using flex coat light finish on all my rods with modest success, I feel its too hard to control for me especially with only a 22rpm finish motor.

Just tried a 3 wt today with their new light formula, ultra V.

I was not impressed. The bubbles were way worse than on any of my other wraps before, and this is supposed to be easier to apply. On top of that my rod box with heat had not effect on the bubbles, not to mention I flashed the wraps with a hair dryer before putting the lid on the box! still have bubbles!

Now I have to completely strip the rod and redo it. This @#$%&.

I am looking for an alternative thread finish right now that is not so darn picky about how its mixed. I will be doing a special project soon and i dont feel like messing with the flex coat right now.

I build mostly light to medium freshwater rods.

So in summary what is a finish that you recommend that is not so picky and still looks good.

My finish of choice is flex coat hi and low build. I get flawless finish every time. When I use any other finish, I can easily get waves, bubbles, fisheyes, etc. Other people are going to tell you that they get the same results as me but with LS Supreme, Threadmaster, etc.

There is no "wonder finish" that is going to solve your problems (though some will tell you differently). Don't mean to sound crass but you basically need to learn how to mix and apply finish. Pick one and learn how to use it. Learn its personality. It takes practice. Finish is probably the most difficult thing folks have trouble with.

There's no magic bullet here. You need to learn how to mix and apply a finish. Pick one and work on it. It takes practice.

Hi Sir have you ever tryed silk for your wraps like pearaselles gossamer silk and alchamist varnish with two more top coats of sutherland wells varnish? it is a cane rod wrap finish but some out standingly beautiful graphite rods have been done this way also God Bless Jeff Rhonda and Kaya

Two coats of Chromaseal CP and then two coats of ThreadMaster, eithere the "lite" of "full" formulas. You have to go a long way to mess this stuff up.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I agree TM is the go!!

Hello Jason,
If you can tolerate applying several (3-7) thin coats, which will not look like epoxy, is very easy to apply, and is harder than epoxy and more flexible than epoxy, then I suggest PermaGloss (PG). PG has the viscosity of varnish (or perhaps water) and dries rather rapidly. Most people describe the surface as eggshell, but I think it looks more like a satin finish in paint. PG is as colorless as water and doesn't yellow. If you want to retain thread coor, you will still need to use color preserver. because PG does contain a solvent, you need to use it in a well ventilated area. I have never had any bubble problems with PG. I apply it using a pqwer wrapper at modestly high speeds (30-50 RPM). You need only seconds for each guide wrap.

Mike Blomme

Jason from what I see your first mistake was using the hair dryer. The dryer well at some point blow dust into the finish. #2 the hot air from the dryer well cause bubbles not break them up. If you want to break bubbles with Flex Coat you can do it 2 ways. One use heat from a flame, the other is add 2 or 3 eye drops of Acetone from a eye dropper into a one oz mix. If you think I am wrong call Flex Coat.
Good Wraps Bob

All epoxies, being thick bodied, are going to obtain and trab bubbles as you mix and brush them. The trick is to keep them from developing in the first place.

The key is mix very slowly, or with a mechanical mixer, and do not brush the finish onto the wraps. Use either a spatula or drop the finish lightly from above with the brush - just don't brush it around.

The thinner the finish the easier it is for bubbles to release, although that means you cannot apply as much per application and made need additional coats to get the depth you desire.

..................

Jason - what Tom says about using a mixer and "drop the finish lightly from above with the brush" are the two tips that have improved the overall quallity of my wraps tremendously. The third thing is Threadmaster Lite - this stuff great. If there's any bubbles in the finish before I start the dryer turning, I just lightly blow on them and their gone. Threadmaster Lite makes my work look more professional than looking from a newbie.

Unhide your email address Jason & send me an email.

DR

"There is no "wonder finish" that is going to solve your problems (though some will tell you differently). Don't mean to sound crass but you basically need to learn how to mix and apply finish. Pick one and learn how to use it. Learn its personality. It takes practice. Finish is probably the most difficult thing folks have trouble with."

Mick's quote is right on!

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

Another trick is to hand turn. Put your finish while turner is on ( with a hand rest ) after all are covered, turn off turner, KEEP guides Right to Left, up and down will have the finish run onto the ring - not pretty, let sag then take excess off wit the brush. After several times, turn the turner back on --- baby sit ?????

Well I am going to redo the 3wt. I want to try PG for that one. Sounds good for lighter work.

I will give TM a try and compare that with flexcoat.

thanks for the replys.

Jason each one of us has a favorite finish. Each ofus have at one time had a problem with our finish. What we have learned is be patient, follow direction to the tee. After awhile you well get a perfect finish. Until you get good at one finish, I would not jump around.
Good Wraps Bob

Jason real curious: Please think about this or go to the trouble of redoing some test guides or something - timing is one reel issue not appreciated by most.

From the time you added the second equal component of the Flexcoat into the mixing cup -

1. How long did you stir in the cup -

2. Did you pour the mixed finish on a flat surface -

3. How many guides did you do and how long does it take per guide -

4. What was the total elapsed time from the mixing to completion -

How many times was the finish or rod heated and when?

1. 2mins plus, or until the finish cleared again.

2. yes, aluminum foil

3. around 6, per guide around 2-3 mins.

4.not sure on total time, 20-30 mins perhaps, I know I spent longer on the first guides than the later ones due to size.

5.I went over the wraps twice with a hair dryer a few minutes apart after all finish was applied and the rod was spinning.


I usually apply my finish with a aluminum sewing needle, my wraps are coated with flexcoat thread sealer, 3 coats. I have done a few brush finish jobs.

I did forget to heat both parts before mixing, so im sure that had a part in the bubbles.

I will pick up some syringes and do some more practice wraps. Its prolly a good idea to not switch around like bob mentioned.

I also want to put higher watt bulbs in my drying box, its not getting warm enough with baby 25 watt bulbs.

I still think that epoxy is too finicky. heh.

Last week I watched Bill Stevens put the finish on a rod with 10 guides. I watched him mix the to parts....he measured carefully and then he proceeded to to mix the finish, he did it so fast that it was whipped to a froth. He put the finish on, all 10 guides in less than 3 minutes-no bubbles in the finish-no mess-no fuss-flat clean edges. I was impressed. He made that job look easy...Guess that's the way it is when you have a sure-fire technique.

Roy

Jason you will have problems with most two part finishes - entirely too long in getting it on the rod - and you are "fooling around with it entirely too long.

I had no clue about finish application until I watched production builders do a rod in 10 seconds at 200 rpm.

You don't need to heat the epoxy parts if they're already at room temperature. Heating them will reduce your pot life.

It shouldn't take you longer than about 30 seconds to coat a guide wrap.

Dump the sewing needle and get a flat spatula or 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide soft bristle brush.


.................

Ordered a new flex coat sable brush, that should help.

what are some techniques for adjusting the finish on a wrap after the first pass and the finish is lacking or too much in some areas?