Yesterday, I applied my first coat of hi-build epoxy on my fourth rod. This rod has a very nice feather inlay in the buttwrap area. The feathers were inlaid over ncp thread which had two coats of cp applied.

On the three previous rods,I applied the same epoxy with the rod rotating at 18rpms and after three total coats all looked very nice and even.

My problem is ..... the first epoxy application is "very wavy". I know I must have used a "too heavy application". I now have read Tom Kirkman's article titled "A Better Epoxy Finish" and guess I should have just rotated the rod by hand and then let it sit and wipe away the excess on the bottom before rotating it 180 degrees., etc,etc.

My "fifth" rod should work out ok with this new knowledge..... but is there anything I can do now to smooth out the mess I have made now on #4? I apoligize for being so stupid but I hope there is some way to correct this problem on this rod. Any comments will be very appreciated. Regards, Bob

bob..after the finish is fully cured take a razor blade and sand paper to all the high spots then hit it with a grey scotchbite pad...refinish and you'll never know the waves were there
I use high build a lot myself and it is a lot thicker than the the lite finishes so you don't need many coats to get the high build look but it is very easy to put too much on..tom's article in the library section is dead on about putting it on and hand rotating the rod and wicking off the excess. I'd also use a spatula to put it on as well.

Dave



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2008 01:26PM by David Teague.

Dave is right Bob, you can also use a sanding block of some type to help smooth things up with the sandpaper, I use a popsickle stick and wrap the paper around it. High build finish's tend to not lay down as well for me as thinner low build "Lite" finish's do. You may want to consider a Lite version of finish down the road.

DR

Go easy with the scotchbrite! I got carried away one time and the finish did not remove the scratches. I had to re-wrap the rod!

You've been given good advice. I just want to add that my article does not advocate "letting it sit and wiping off the excess."

............

My apologies Tom.......reading your article again I see that you attribute that procedure to "some builders". Thanks to all for your helpful replys. Regards, Bob

Ok Tom, I think you know what I meant by my post..I was simply saying by hand turning you can remove the excess BEFORE it gets out of hand and leaves you with a wavy finish,if you happen to apply too much

Bob,
I have heard this problem so much with TOO much finish curing and causing waves.
If folks would use a bit of heat, you would eliminate the problem.
After getting the finish on all of the guides and butt wrap, just go over the rod with a heat gun or hair dryer to insure that the epoxy has spread nicely, penetrated the threads well, and there is no excess.
I generally apply my finish at about 30-50 rpm, and then switch the rod to my 6 rpm dryer. I use the heat gun when the rod is on the 6 rpm dryer. This is slow enough so that if there is excess it will puddle and you can dab it off if it doesn't fall by itself.

Take care on any fixes.

p.s.
If at all possible, I generally try to finish all of my rods with a single finish. Generally speaking, if the wrapping is well done and if you use high buiild finish, there is normally little reason to use more than a single coat.

Take care
Roger

Old habits are hard to break but epoxy does not require HEAT. Yes heat can get one out
of "hot water" (punn intended). However, if one can master the best mixing & application
procedures all that may be required is to blow on the finish thru a straw to pop any
stubborn bubbles. Also, over-heating can ruin the finish and even dammage the blank
so if one uses heat one should be VERY careful.

My 2 cents

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Bob I also use heat at times, but I use a Butane torch. I do not use at blower for heat. You can blow unwanted dust into the finish. When I use a flame I keep the flame as far away from the finish as possible. I place my hand in front of the flame, if I am about to burn myself, I move the flame back until I just feel warm heat. I apply the heat to the finish while the rod is turning. Keep the flame moving back an forth. never let the flame stay in one spot over 2 seconds. Too much heat well crystalize the finish. you well puddles on the bottom of the rod, move those puddles to the low spots or wick them off. An another alternative is using a old credit card to remove excess finish, move the card back an forth. By doing this you can fill in the low spots and remove all the excess finish. As for flame heat I have been using heat for many years with no problem 2 months ago I was using flame heat on a custom rod. I was distracted for just a couple of seconds, you guessed it I melted the rod. SO BE CARFUL WITH HEAT, Practice on a old blank first
Good Wraps Bob

Thanks to all who responded to my dilemna. I have used your advice and the epoxy job now liiks fine. I have learned a "lesson for life" and with your combined help it should never happen again. Best regards and appreciation. Bob Swindell

Bob,
You might also considering thinning the High Build with Acetone. This and a little heat to the cup make the high build really flow and level nicely. It still gives you a great single coat finish, but is a little more manageable. The other thing I do is start with my butt wrap or label first when the finish is thinnest. As mentioned above, I'll occasionally use a credit card if it is wavey but since I've started thinning with acetone, it hasn't been necessary. I then do the guides and finish with ramps when the finish is thicker.

Robert

Bob: Becareful using Acetone! Flex Coat says you can use Acetone to thine their high build finish. I know of know other finishes that recommend using Acetone. Acetone mixed in to Flex Coat Well slow down the curing time. Too much Actetone and the mix well never hard cure, it well stay soft. I personally would never use any more than 3 eye drops to a one OZ. mix.
Good Wraps Bob

I've used Acetone and denatured alcohol with High Build and Thread Master with no problems. I use only about a drop for 3 ccs of finish. I put the drop of thinner in the cup first to make sure I don't get too much.

I'll add that I've used finger nail polish remover with TM and also had no problems.

Robert Finger nail remover has Acetone init, pluse a few other additives. By adding Acetone you well notice it well break up all the bubbles. That is why I use a eye dropper to measure the Acetone No mistakes. I also warm my finish bottles for 15 second in the nuker. Sense the harner is a little thicker it well now run like water. I also add my hardner to my mixing cup first, then add the hardner, stir for one minute then add my Acetone. After mixing pour mix on to a Aluminum foil or pan, let set one minute then apply. I hope with the other posts you find your solution.
Good Wraps Bob

Good advise Bob. I'llll have to try an eye dropper and heating the bottles.

Don't heat the resin bottle just the hardner.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Thanks for the correction Ray
Good Wraps Bob

That's the great thing about this site. Before I started coming here, I had to figure many of these things out for myself. As you guys surely know, some things we try work and unfortunately, some don't. It was through this method of trial and error that I refined my techniques. Now, if I want to try something new, I research on here or post my question if I can't find the information I want. With the help of the experts on here, I've tried many new things without all the failures of the past. What a great site. Thanks to Tom and all those that freely share their information.