hi i'm having a little trouble and figured i would throw this out to the rodbuilding world and see if i can get a better feel. i am building a mudhole jigging blank cbvj6650 30-50lb. 115-250 gram 4-9 oz.. my other rod i use for this technique i built on a musky blank with a simple spiral. i like the way it performs but being faster action, it shuts off sooner than this one. this one has a 12 inch handle,6 inches of fuji pss 20 seat, and 7.5 in. foregrip. the stripper is titan 16 gnif regular casting guide.it is 20 inches from middle of seat and9 inches from top of fore grip. i put size 10 fly for bumper roughly centered before 1st 180 and static tested to get avg. optimum placement. just didn't like the look and then read some posts from mr dave hauser who i'm pretty sure has forgotten more of the spiral semantics than i will ever know said you should always at least use 2 bumper guides splitting the difference into 3rds. thats whats on there now with 2 10's ar roughly 60 and 120 degrees spanning the8 inches between the stripper and first 180.sorry this is so long winded. put a pull on this setup and it felt good and looked ok but i really noticed for the first time that the 1st 180 has no load. i know i've heard that before but it was staring at me and i started getting misgivings about having 15 inches in the dead center of the blank doing nothing but folllowing the tip.do these numbers sound reasonable? have trip planned nest week and won't be able to finish rod properly so i have the handle assembly finished and wrapped the guides with no finish.will fish it and build right when i return. maybe its fine but would love opinions. one more, do i have it right that the o quinn and roberts are essentially the same with one having the stripper canted slightly away from the spiral? thank you for your time cody

to get the first 180 to load it needs to be one or two sizes smaller than the second 180 guide at least thats my understanding of mr hausers theory...there are some great posts on spiral wraps on this site also..search under all dates...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2008 02:42AM by David Teague.

You don't want to confuse mumbo-jumbo for knowledge or experience. On the internet, anybody can be an expert if they spew enough mumbo-jumbo. Don't be overly concerned - your rod is okay.

On the simple spiral, there is and can only be 1 bumper guide. You need to read the article - it appears you're getting bad internet information (common). It is in place only to keep the line from touching the blank, not to transition the line. The line naturally goes to the bottom of the rod, if you let it.

If you use enough guides and space them reasonably well, the applied stress will be distributed evenly enough so that the rod is not forced into a bend or flex that is beyond what it was designed to handle. This is very important near the tip where bad spacing can force the blank into a flex beyond 180 degrees. This is almost impossible on the butt section but you should still use good spacing there.

If you've followed my instructions on any spiral wrap, you'll note that I have always mentioned the use of a smaller guide in the first 180 position. If you like this better, use it. Otherwise it still won't make too much difference because by the time you really bring the butt section into play - all the guides will have the line solidly in them, "loaded" if you prefer that term.

Keep in mind, that if you simply tied a line to the tip and loaded the rod that way, you'd have the strongest set up possible - the load will naturally transfer to the strong butt section which was designed to handle that kind of stress. And there wouldn't be any guides there at all. So even with a supposed 15 inches of "unloaded" area, you aren't putting your butt section into any sort of danger at all and butt section is still doing its job. But again, unless your guides are wildly sized out of proportion to each other, once the rod flexes deeply enough, the line will contact all the guides.


........................

Roberts has two or three transition guides back near the butt. O'Quinn has guides spiralled all along the rod for a mostly straight path out to the rod tip.

Cody, This will happen in every spiral wrap method or system. The line will not ride in the bottom of the first 180 guide because it is coming to it from above. This is normal. Once the rod is loaded the line will eventually move to the bottom of the ring. If this does not happen fast enough to suit you, do as Tom suggests and use a little smaller or lower framed guide in that position. On just about every spiral wrapped rod I have ever built I use a #6 guide for the first 180 and then #8 guides the rest of the way to the tip. That's really all you have to do.

You can also alter frame styles if that bothers you. Lower frame for the first 180 degree guide, and higher for the rest. Sometimes this is as easy as using the same frame and ring size, but bending the frame of the first one so that it sits a bit lower than the others.

.............

Has anybody ever use fly guides for building a spiral jigging rod for trout an salmon?

John

Has anybody ever use fly guides for building a spiral jigging rod for trout an salmon?

John

Has anybody ever use fly guides for building a spiral jigging rod for trout an salmon?

John

Has anybody ever use fly guides for building a spiral jigging rod for trout an salmon?

John

Has anybody ever use fly guides for building a spiral jigging rod for trout an salmon?

John