I am having some issues with my last couple rods that I am finishing. For starters I have built over 50 rods ( for personal use and friends ) so I do have some experience at this. I recently moved to florida and the first couple rods that I have built I am having trouble with my finish not leveling well. Last night I did a test blank with 20 wraps with differenent threads ( half with CP half without ) and had the same problem with all of them. It just isn't flowing or leveling. I am using new batch of LS Supreme. It was worst when covering the description. I am in my house in the AC (75 degrees) , could that be an issue? I was in western NY and build most of my rods in my basement in the off season (65 degrees) . Could I have gotten a bad batch of finish? What is the thinnest epoxy finish ? I use disposable brushes to apply but I did try a spatula and it did the same thing,
Thanks
Steve Zupparo

The volume of mixed finished, total time elapsed, mixed finish container that was used for application and did you apply any external heat at any point would be helpful to know? Hand turn or power - what rpm - at what point did you remove excess? When you finished the 20th did you go back and fiddle around with the first one?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/28/2008 01:41PM by Bill Stevens.

I used 2.5 cc's of resin and hardner with a 16rpm dryer. I did apply heat to burst the bubbles and to get a little flow ( which I have done before with no problem) . I did use a mini torch when I used to use just a normal lighter but i didnt torch it. I never removed the excess because it would flow. Maybe i should use a lathe to apply for more rpms? I never went back to fiddle because that never works for me.
Thanks

Faster RPM's will not solve your problem, might even worsen it

When you say "not leveling" can you explain it a bit more? Do you have humps/bumps low spots? Or pot holes? Or is it gathering toward one end more then the other ECT?

I get humps and bumps, pot holes and just not much flow. When I try and take the excess off I get ridges from the brush. I do this right away so I am not waiting to push it around. I need to try another finish to just make sure its not a bad batch.

Your issue is humidity. Here in Arkansas I have to put my finish on at night because I have to do it out in my shop and cannot regulate the temp in there. I have noticed that the higher the humidity the worse the finish turns out. I lived in Jacksonville FL for quite a while and the weather was very similar to what it is here. This is just a guess but I believe that is your problem. If you have any sort of climate control where you finish your rods I would suggest getting a dehumidifier and running it while you have a rod on the dryer.

On second thought after reading your post again it may be that there is not enough humidity with it being in your house and it was working in a basement. One way or another I would bet humidity is your problem

Liquids will always level on the surface when static - the excess finish in localized areas is what causes the "humps" when cured under rotation. The condition was clearly explained and photographs of how it occurs was published in a Rodmaker Magazine. RPM of application is probably not the problem here - too much finish is more likely the culprit. The LS Sppreme is a very high quality product and very thin when compared to some others - it is not intended to do a high build finish in one coat and excess really needs to be removed consistantly. That is one reason that I prefer the 200 rpm application speed - very easy to remove excesses quickly and evenly.

The torch may be the issue imo Steve.

What these torches do is throw a LOT of heat to a pin point area = not good! (cooks the finish in a small area-you can never get it right after that, you just have to let dry and re-coat) Try going back to the lighter and see what happens.

I pray for rainy weather when I'm ready to apply finish, something about applying finish on a rainy day just works for me.

Another thought, your may want to go to a thinner (lite) finish now that you have moved from 65 degrees to 75. The thinner finish will cure slower and lay down much better in warmer areas.

DR

Humidity should have no bearing on epoxy finishes cure whatsoever as it cures by chemical reaction between the parts and NOT evaporation. PG and, I believe, Diamonditeare totally differant animals, not being epoxies

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Your finish is fine. The problem is your application technique, and yes, it will have to be altered slightly due to the higher temperature you're working in now.

All finish self level - look in the mixing cup of any batch of finish you have. Is it level? Of course it is. The finish on your rods is not level because you applied too much per application - it drooped and then you rotated your rod and those droops were spread all around the circumference.

You should not be spending more than 1 minute per guide wrap, and that's at the outside. If you're taking longer than this, you're wasting valuable time. You want to apply the finish while it's still very liquid and able to move and flow. Get the wraps covered, quickly - you can come back later and touch in any dry or trouble areas.

The thinner the finish, the less you can put on per application and have it support itself. With LS Supreme High Build, you can put on quite a bit, but again, you must work quickly. Move along - don't dally. Get the finish on that wrap and go - don't spend time trying to level it or get it perfect. The finish will do that on its own. Your job, is to move along quickly and get all the wraps coated with epoxy.

................

Lowering the temp might help. Or do the guides first, then mix another batch and do the inscription buy itself. After the guides are coated, I always shut the turner off and hand turn with guides Left and Right. Up and down lets the finish climb up and onto the ring. Not pretty. Take any drips off then slow turn with motor.

Steve,
Pick up a heat gun.
You can get a good gun for a price of $20-$100 or so; depending on quality.
Go ahead and apply the finish to all of the guides and inscriptions.
Then, go over each guide and inscription and use "gentle" heat to remove any bubbles and or level and or remove any excess.

The key thing is to use "gentle" heat - not excess heat which could bake the finish or "kick" the finish prematurely.

Also, lower heat and humidity in the finish application area also helps.
You don't indicate if the shop is air conditioned to lower the temp and humidity. If not, and if it is available, it might be a good idea to try that as well.

Take care
Roger

I recomend thin mutipl coats. I do not use a heat gun. They can stir up dust.. I use a step dryer motor. I can stop the rod turning just for a second and it well reverse its self. Most sponsors carry them. If youmust use heat try an alcohol lamp. just keep the flam going.
Good Wraps Bob