Is there any way to take finish down to rod signature? Wasnt happy when i started applying finish, the color started to smear a tad. Thought it would look ok but after finished dried wasnt happy with outcome. If i use sandpaper what grit should i use? Any tips from you pros? Thanks
F J Harvey

If you applied the inscription to the blank itself, then you'll have to sand into the blank in order to remove it. I wouldn't do that.

Sand your finish down flat. Then wrap over it in a color you like or that matches the blank. Finish that. Then apply the inscription, and apply a final application of finish over that.

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Tom
Can i write with a calligraphy pen over the thread wrap?
Thanks
FJ Harvey

If you apply finish to it. The ink isn't going to work on something like thread - in effect you're creating a new surface. I would allow the finish to harden and then lightly scuff it with very fine Scotchbrite. Do not create large scratches - the ink will run down into them.

......

This is why I do my signatures on a coat of finish. If there are any issues, you only need to sand down to the finish and not to the blank.

I wet sand starting at 220 and will go up to 1000. The bulk being removed at 220.


Besides wrapping thread, you could mask the area and paint it.



............................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Thanks everybody! Appreciate the info.
FJ Harvey

Frank......Take flat black testors paint, paint a nice even (ends) area completely over the signing, let dry, apply new finish, let dry, re-sign and then finish over.


DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2008 04:48PM by Duane Richards (DR).

Another idea for the future ... use label material to write on. Then you not only have the advantage of a nice flat writing surface, but you can doodle until you are happy and THEN apply it to the blank. Decal Connection sells the material.

This what I do when it comes to writting on a blank. First I apply a thine coat of Perma Gloss. let set 24 hours. then just were I am going to write. I buff the area with 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. I use a quill type dip pen. Then I let it set, once dry I use one coat of CP or I use a light coat of paint set. It is an artis item. then I apply a finish thin coat
Good Wraps Bob

I do my writing on the blank, and then mask off the section and apply two or three coats of spray Varathane. This seals your writing, and the epoxy bonds with the varathane. Your ready to epoxy withing a couple hours of spraying the varathane on.

Harold

I have some of the same problems when I sign my rods. Good advise for us less artistic types.

By the way, Matt, I just ran across a photo of one of your rods on another site. All I can say is
excellent...Would you be willing to share the color code for the paint on that blank?

Thanks James.

I assume you're talking about the yellow one?


.....................................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Matt,

That is the one...The bright colors showing up on rods recentally is an exciting new arena in my opion. One OEM in Texas has both
a hot pink and a hot green production rod in their catalog. I supect there are more to come.

We use the ink pens supplied by Mud Hole for the purpose - primarly, the silver one. Let the ink dry (we give it 24hrs) and apply your epoxy finish over it.

However, there's a couple of other things to consider:

1) If the blank has a slick finish, then what I said above works fine.
2) If the blank has a dull finish, or is "unfinished", the ink will feather or run. In these cases, we apply one coat of U-40 LS (either lite or regular) and let it dry for 24hrs and then write on it. No other epoxy seems to work as well in this application. After the ink is dry, we apply our "regular" brand of epoxy.
3) We don't sand the blank. We just make sure the surface is clean before we try to write on it.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

James

The paint was Plasti-Kote and I got it from M e r r i c k. FL-10 Yellow. Flourescent series paint.

The one problem with it is that it is not very opaque. I had to get a white base coat on the rod for the yellow to show.



................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/28/2008 08:14AM by Matt Davis.

I use the sharpie paint pens with an X-fine tip. I have had no problems to date.