Need some help on how to get finish smooth over labels. I notice some ripples on the blank when putting finish over the label. The label is smooth with finish but connecting in the exposed area gives me problems. Any help will be greatly appericated.

place lots of finish on the label area and allow it to drip off, leaves a great result

Waves or ripples are generally the result of too much epoxy per application.

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Steve I have the same problem and we are probably not alone in this.
I coat the label / decal with Flex Coat CP and it dries with little ridges left by the brush that are barely visible until I put the finish on, then they are very obvious. Around the edges of the decal I will brush the CP upward, toward the decal, building a little ramp so to speak. Now that normally takes care of the edges but I still have the little ripples in the finish caused by the CP. To solve the ripple problem , my first coat of finish is Threadmaster lite. My second coat is Threadmaster regular build. And I put it on heavy enough that I have to wick it off the bottom a couple of times before I rotate.
Now this may seem like a long drawn out process to some but it works for me.
I know some builders trim the long edges of the decal on an angle to get that feathered edge. Some have used clear fingernail polish to build that little ramp. The best method is what works best for you. Try different things until you get comfortable with one.

I would like to find a CP that didn't leave the little ridges.

Tom and I were typing at the same time.
He is correct, too much finish will do the same thing. When I use too much finish I get waves.
My litle ripples are brush streaks from applying CP. Very obvious after one coat of Threadmaster Lite.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/23/2008 10:52PM by Jay Hunt.

We don't use lables. We use decals, very specifically because they don't have the higher edge that causes the problem.

However, we do a number of open butt wraps and also our ribbon butt wraps and we encountered a similar problem. Our solution was to put several (as many as three) coats of CP on the wrap or ribbon, letting each dry about 24hrs. The CP builds up and fills in all the "low" spots and then the expoxy finish goes on over that, and by that time the surface is smooth.

Now, I'm going to say that we don't use Flex Coat CP for this. In our opinion, it doesn't work as well in this type of use as some others.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I apply CP over the entire rod this well build up along the edges and smooth out the ridge. Then I CP the label. After drying and if there is a ridge line. I lightly buff it off. With my rod turning I apply finish. Once finish is applied. I stop the rod with the label down and wick off the excess globs that form at the bottom. Then I turn the dryer back on let turn for 2 minutes. then reverse the rod direction. I let it turn for another couple of minutes an reverse the direction again. I use a step dryer motor, when ever you stop it by hand it well reverse direction. By reversing direction I do not get ridge lines.
Good Wraps Bob

Thanks for the advice guys. I will try the CP and see how it turns out.

Having been through this, I was suggested to try "Krylon Workable Fix". It is a spray can of clear coating that is made for help on many things, it's super easy to use, WORKS EVERY TIME PERFECTLY and will end your label/sticker/decal problems forever. It dries fast and you can work over it in no time at all. Only spray the area needed lightly with 2-3 coats, and take your finish BEYOUND the workable fix to seal it, just like you would if using CP on wrappings.

This stuff has been a dream come true for all decals and now I wont touch a decal with finish without using the stuff over it.

DR

Duane,
Apply epoxy directly on top of Krylon fixatif or a coat of CP first? I'm using Chromaseal.
Thanks

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark Twain
John in Wethersfield, CT

I apply the fixatif directly over the label, nothing else but finish.

DR

That is a good hint.
Good WrapsBob

Really not trying to be a smart elbow here, but I don't understand the problem. With exception of a few failed deviations, I use Flex Coat CP on pretty much everything I do. I ALWAYS apply CP over decals of any kind regardless of who makes them or the finish I am going to use. On waterslides I do not use Microsol/Microset. I've never had trouble in this area.

IMO, if you have ridges after finish, the problem is not with your choice of finishing, but in how you applied the decal.

1.
Small hint. I apply a vary thine coat of finish where I am going to apply a waterslide or decal. Wait 24 hours then apply. then I put just one thin coat of CP on the decal or waterslide. Let dry, then apply finish. the new coat of finish softens the 24 hour finish just enough to allow the stickers to flow into the older finish. By also putting a thin coat of finish on the blank first it eliminates those white edge lines and opaque blemishes in the finish over the waterslide
Good Wraps Bob

What type of labels are you using? I use P-touch labels on some of the rods I build.

I use the one part rod finish made by Gudebrod for my first coat over the label. This helps to reduce the lifting or peeling of the label edges. It also helps to make a good ramp to transition the label edges to the rod blank. I them let that coat dry for 24 hours, then I apply my top coat with Flex Coat finish. Also I have stopped using cheep toss-away brushes. I use only high quality flat red sable artist brushes. They are easy to clean with acetone and reuse.

That’s what works for me. I have not given the CP a try as the other guys suggest, but I’m sure I will run a few samples soon.


David Cockerham

The labels or decals or the ones for the rod from the blank manufacture.

I make my own using the Brother P-touch label maker M/N PT 1500 PC.

David Cockerham