OK Guys,
Ive got a ask the pros a question,, I was fishing with one of my rods today and notice the finish was coming uni-laminated from the blank., After thinking about this, the only thing I can come up with is that when I apply CP I run past the wraps a little to make sure I get good coverage, then when I go back over it with finish I run past the wraps about the same amount.

Do i need to modify the way I apply the CP, or is there something I'm not doing such as prepping the blank somehow? Any other suggestions?
I use flexcoat CP and flexcoat high build finish

Thanks for the help in advance..
John "puddle jumper"

When I apply CP I only put it on the thread, not the blank itself. I then run the epoxy just past the thread and onto the blank about 1/8" No problems in many years of doing this.

Thanks Rob,
I kind of feel that this was the problem,, One other question about CP can you apply to much?, I tend to apply it pretty thick in one aplicationthen let it dry about 24 hr before applying finish.
John

IMO it's better to put on one thick or wet coat and let it go at that.

John,

I have used Gudebrod 811 CP (no longer available), U-40 Color Lock, and Lamar's Chroma Seal. the 811 and Chroma eal have the best color retention. I always apply a first flood coat and when it is dry, I apply a second coat and allow the CP to dry for 24 hours before applying finish. I apply the CP while the rod is rotating. I then fill the tunnels along the foot of the guide with two coats of CP as well. This has worked for me for many years. Good Luck.

Mike Blomme

I have alway run the color preserve a bit past the thread and have not had any issues with the epoxy near the ends of the wraps. In looking at the guide, where is the epoxy coming loose? Just at the ends or over the whole area of the wrap?

The epoxy should encapsulate the wrap so you would want to extend it past the thread and any CP you have on the blank.


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We generall y don't run the CP off the threads, but if we do, it doesn't hurt anything. We also use CP directly on the rod in our open wraps and again, no problem, as long as we do what Tom said and run the epoxy just a little bit further than where the CP stops.

The secret to the "new" 811 formulation is to cut it with 30% denatured alcohol. That will give you results similar to the "old" 811, before Trondak messed with it. It's not the best solution, because it's still not the original 811, but it's the best we could come up with while waiting for Chromaseal.

And then, of course, there's Andy's Chromaseal. That's our preferred solution.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Russ,

Trondak doesn't make 811. Gudebrod is the supplier for 811, although it's made by someone else. However, that isn't Trondak.

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Thanks for the info guys
I think I need to tighten up on the CP so the finish covers all of it,, thats kind of what I figured but being new I wanted to mke sure there wasent something I was missing...
John..

Tom - well, it was late, and I messed up. If computers had sharp edges I'd have cut myself.

Apologies to Trondak, Gudebrod, and anyone else I might have inadvertantly offended. I am, if nothing else, the soul of political correctness.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods