Thinking about trying permagloss on a conventional I am gonna do for my Daiwa Luna 300. I know (have read atleast) that alot of coats are required, how long between coats before you apply the next?? Also read it gels once the bottle has been opened due to humidity (got plenty of that here in South FLA) Will the 1 oz bottle be enough for the butt wrap and guides on an 8 guide rod and approx 10-12inch butt wrap?? Any other pointers greatly appreciated.

1oz bottle should do just fine, it's THIN and goes on like water. About 3-4 thin coats is all you need, I'll do my coats back to back to back with only a few minutes in between. Rods ready to fish the next day.

DR

So it dries obviously alot quicker than epoxy? Thanks DR.

One more question, I use alot of Madeira thread in my wraps, does the permagloss darken it more or the same as epoxy? And no problems with CP right?

i put mine on about an hour between coats. the last rod i built with pg i used mettalic underwraps with gudebrod overs on the guides with no cp and a many colored fade from blue to gray to white madeira on the buttwrap with cp. the permagloss worked great but i ended up with about 8 or 9 coats to get the look i wanted. just picked a rainy day and put it on every hour all day. my thought is that the 1 oz bottle for 3 dollars is a bargain. it will stay good plenty long enough for one rod and i don't mind getting each rod its own bottle.

Giorgio,
If you are using Madeira thread, you must use CP. The Madeira thread is made for sweing machines and will very likely be covered with silicone as a lubricant. This can cuase uneven absorption of the finish. I would try a test on a practie wrap before trying it on the rod you are building.

Mike Blomme

I know you gotta use CP with madeira, trust me I go through plenty of it as I love the madeira colors, the question was more based on is there any problemse between the CP and permagloss bonding. I meant darken it after applying the CP and then the epoxy, sorry. Thanks anyways.

If you are doing thread art for arts sake I would reccomend that you not use Perma Gloss as the complete system for finishing the rod. Perma Gloss is a superior product when used for specific tasks. It will provide an exceptional thread coating for thread on guide wraps. It will be super hard, super strong, resistant to scratching, tough, long lasting, high gloss and provide a highly functional thread coating.

The building of finish depth equal to the appearance of a two part finish will require numerous coats. The timing between coats is critical when applying many coats and will be set by the relative humidity in your work area. The product uses moisture for the curing process. If you apply subsequent coats too quickly before the underlying coat is cured tiny bubbles will be noted in the finish. If you are planning on using Perma Gloss for butt wrap thread work I would strongly suggest that you do some testing on a short piece of work before you go for the finished product.

There are many many theads on this board on "Perma Gloss" - do a search and read for a lon long time!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2008 04:46PM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks Bill, and yes my rods are for arts sake, especially the butt wraps. Maybe it will be a good combination for combing the permagloss for the guide wraps and epoxy for the butt wrap. Functional art! :)

When I have done my coats with only a few minutes between the finish was nice and even, but it turned cloudy after about three days.

i just finished a spinning rod with a blank(loomis gl3 sj783) from the expo(better late than never). i used permagloss and did guides and buttwrap with it. guide wraps came out fine except for darkening due to not using cp. buttwrap did show bubbles because i hurried in order to get heavier coverage/buildup. rods does look good overall and fishes great!

For those interested in getting a faster thick Perma Gloss try this. After removing the Perma Gloss from the container leave in the application shot glass for at least an an hour and allow it to thicken before you apply the coat - this will build thickness faster -- then let sit at least three days before doing it again to allow solvent to escape and the underlying coat to cure. If you try this it is better to do the application under rotation.

Bill,
Do you need to rotate it while it cures?

No just for about five - ten minues minutes - cure is probably a bad coice of words - the tiny amount of solvent in the material requires a long time to release.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2008 07:26AM by Bill Stevens.