I have built several spinning rods with an uplocking reel seat as seen by manufacturers but noticed in some cases downlocking seats? Is there a right or wrong way? As I see it on longer rods it would aid in the balancing of the reel to place the reel seat downlocking to aid in the neutral balancing of that rod. Essentially it would seat the reel further back shifting the weight to the rear a little. Thoughts??

I've built them both ways but prefer uplocking so I don't have my front two fingers in front of the reel stem laying on the threads. Actually I prefer the NPS or an IPSM in reverse so I can slide even more fingers ahead of the reel stem to balance the rod. I just don't use as long a rear grip when I do this.

I much prefer NPS style seats in an uplocking position as well. Not only more comfortable but more secure in respect to the foot of the reel.

Uplocking puts the threaded section under the fisherman's hand. Depending on exactly how he holds the rod during both casting, working a lure or bait, or fighting a fish, that area can become annoying under the palm. Downlocking puts the threaded area above the palm but if the guy uses his fingers ahead of the reel, there's the possibility of an annoying area there too.

However, most of our customers ask for downlocking. Their reason is that in that configuration, it's less annoying, or less likely to be annoying, than the other way.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Part of the answer needs to be the answer to what type reel seat that you are going to use. You also need to answer the question as to the type grip that you are using.
Some of the reel seats with built in grips are positioned better either as an uplocking or downlocking.
Also, depending on whether you have a sleletal reel seat with or without having the hood encased in grip material will also make a difference as to whether it is better to have the grip uplocking or downlocking.

So, the answer is - let the client try out a handle set up both ways and have the client decide as to his preference.

Take care
Roger

Shifting the reel toward the rear won't help balance a long rod. In fact, it will make matters worse, unless you are going to grip the rod above the reel stem, or in other words, toward the tip. Gripping the reel stem between your fingers, as is the normal way, shifting the reel would make the rod tip longer, and hence, more tip heavy.

When I don't use NPS style, I use them in downlocking position with the threads cut to the minimun needed for the reel seat. I rarely use forgegrips and if the epoxy ramp of 1/2" or so or "button" in front of the seat is small enough, I can even cut the threads shorter as I can unscrew the hood right off the seat. As far as comfort, most people that I know that use spinning rods have the reel stem between their little finger and ring finger and barely touch the grip, if at all.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I hold all spinning rods with all of my fingers in front of the stem, so I much prefer an uplocking reel seat.

Which way you mount the seat won't matter as far as rod balance is concerned - the seat can be positioned anywhere you want, so it's not a problem to slide it up or back an inch either way to put the reel's weight exactly where you desire it.

Years ago I built most of my spinning rods in the uplocking position, but in the past few I've made them all downlocking. There is no right nor wrong way to do it. Mount the seat in whatever position you find the most comfortable.

...............

Before you glue the seat on, try it both ways. I always put the threads up so my hand does not rest on them.

Thanks for all the advice it was as I expected some like uplock and others downlock. In the end I guess it's up to the customer to decide what he likes. As Bill mentioned it is always good to try it out prior to the epoxy stage which is why I like to have the customers grip the rod. How each guy likes to hold the rod varies much the same as we have varied opinions

.

Well
it certainly is a personal preference.
for single handed spin casting I like my thumb on top of the rod when casting & that is the part of the hand & situation in which any individual part of the hand gets the most pressure. When retrieving the thumb is slipped down & around the reelseat.
Reelseat between ring finder & middle finger.
So I like uplocking reelseat configuration and a forgrip that is pretty well the same diameter as the OD of the reelseat flange next to it.
There are some technical reasons why thumb on top & why reelseat between ring & middle finger for effort efficiency but we won't go there.
Its old hat...................everybody knows that don't they..................to each his own.
DenisB

I have made rods with both up and down locking positions. One thing I have found out is that if you plan on using a Breakaway Cannon casting aid on your spinning rod its much better to have the seat mounted in the uplocking position. If in the downlocking position, you will have to remove the casting aid every time you want to take off the reel because the casting aid is quite often attached over the threads.

I always cut my reel seats down as much as possible considering the foot length of likely reels to be used-most of the time I take at least 1/2 inch off. Looks better proportioned, and will be a little lighter, although I cannot argue that it is significant. Then I install them up-locking. The way I hold the reel that gets my hand away from the threads as much as possible (for me.)

For jigging rods (fresh water bass/walleye) I also do as Dennis mentions and use foregrips that are about the same diameter as the reel flange, taper them to the front, make them only about 3/4 inch long (one 1/2 ring and two 1/8's in contrasing color),and add an epoxy ramp that continues the taper to the blank. This makes it very comfortable to have the hand on the blank or the epoxy ramp and gives what should be very high sensitivity while jigging. I use exotic burl cork for durability, looks, and possible sensitivity gain (harder than normal cork?). I use a similar shape behind the reel seat, and a butt knob behind the open blank of a split grip design. Minimum cork, maximum sensitivity, minimum weight, and I like the looks of the rods. The open blank behind the reel gives room for the blank decal plus custom info of my own (on the bottom) leaving the area in front of the foregrip open for just a little trim and a hook keeper. Simple, elegant, very functional, and quite different from any commericial rod I've seen.

For a salmon rod, or other rods that will be used in long fights with big fish, I do a more conventional foregrip (larger diameter and longer) to allow good room for the hand to be up there while fighting the fish.

Think about the expoxy ramp for jigging rods-makes a lot of sense.