I have been trying to print labels with clear Avery labels. I am not having any success. I thought I read something on this last winter in rod Maker mag but, have only found the article on using the Brother Label Maker. I much would rather choose my fonts and use a clear label.

Thanks,

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

IMO, there is nothing that can be done at home that can compare to what you can get from Decal Connection (other than multi color done with an ALPS, maybe)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Bill,

I have a Brother P- touch label maker that I use for labels on rods. I had to order a white on clear tape from Brother as none of the office stores carried that style.

My Brother labelmaker came with a software CD program that installs and runs on a PC. The software allows you to design your labels, and includes many many fonts, not just the ones that come imbedded in the labelmaker. I have even put a .jpg logo that I downloaded from web. The label maker connects to the PC via a USB port and you print to the labelmaker (just as you normally print to a printer)

The only downside I have found is that the edges of the labels standout against a black blank. The labelmaker edges are more visible than decals.

I do put a layer of thread epoxy over the label, as the first one I did, the edges started to peel after short while.

I hope this helps

Regards
Bert Nagy

Here's a great link from Dave Rogers that shows how he makes water slide labels. I have not tried it myself, but his quality looks great.

[www.cabochonrods.com]

Rodmaker Volume 9 issue 3. There is a Rodmaker index right at the top of this page.

The labels it details were NOT made with a Brother machine. They are made on an ink jet and if you follow the steps exactly they look nearly identical to anything you can get in a decal. And you only need to use regular good quality paper. Not Avery labels which I doubt would work well anyway.

I just posted a photo of a label done for the article in RodMaker Volume 9 #3. They look pretty good if you follow the directions as stated.

There are some things you can't do with this method... you can't print clear decals - they will have a colored background. And the crispness of the lettering or graphics will only be as good as the quality your ink jet printer is capable of, although this isn't a problem with most good printers.

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There was another vendor at the last two Shows who made excellent labels (decals) for us two years ago.

Email me directly and I'll be able to give you their info this weekend.

Also, you can do this quite easily using the Testor's Decal Kit.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Good Morning Tom,

I knew I read this somewhere thanks for the info on it. Remembering back months ago when I did read this issue there was some thing that was not right. Now, after re-reading it I have found out what it is.

The article starts on page #22 continues on #23 and #24. Instead of having page #`s 25 & 26 I have another #23 & # 24. It then goes to page # 27. On the other side of the magazine I go from # !4 skip # 15 & #16 and then pages # 17 & #18 twice

Outside of those minor flaws it was a great issue.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Thanks Bertr.................I`ll look into it

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Bill,

Email me privately at rodmaker@earthlink.net with your snail mail address and I'll send you a replacement issue for that one.

.................

Bill,
I also have a Brother P-Touch labeler setup on my PC. It sounds like you’ve done about the same experiments I’ve done.

The problem I had is when I applied Flex Coat to the label it would react with the heat created by the epoxy kicking off. This is where the edges of the label would peel or roll up. To solve this problem I use the one part rod finish made by Gudebrod for my first coat. I let it dry for 24 hours. Then I apply Flex Coat for my finish coat. So far this process has worked well for me. And you are correct about the look of the P-Touch labels on black blanks. I think it is because of the thickness of the label material and the adhesive. If the adhesive didn’t appear cloudy it would help make it look more intergraded with the rod. I have not tried this yet, but someone suggested I lay a thread epoxy base on the area of the blank where the label will go before applying it. The idea here is to smooth out the surface of the blank to have less valleys to trap the adhesive.

That’s my two cents worth.

Let me know if you find other options to make the P-Touch labels work better. I like the idea of how the labeling system works. It allows me to be more flexible and creative “On the Fly”.

David Cockerham