Does anyone know why in God's name why Threadmaster takes a month of Sunday's to dry? I know, humidity and all that...But it's only 60% humidity here in Anchorage. And I did mix it correctly too!

Paul

Never had the problem with ThreadMaster taking to long to dry. Dries faster than Flexcoat for me. I live in a very humid area, Wamego KS. Didn't seem to change much when I moved from Dodge City to here. Dodge is close to desert type weather. I don't know if it would be humidity being the factor, what about the temp?

Gone Fishin

What did you use to mix it with? Tell me something flat and not round, if it's round you have your answer: not mixed well. TM regular build is the fastest setting hardest 2 part finish I've tried, one thing it doesn't do is take long to dry....something is wrong:

poorly mixed
wrong ratio
same part used twice = missing hardner or missing finish

DR

Hi Duane,

You have me confused. What do you "something flat and not round"?

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Defintely something else is wrong. TM sets up much faster than other finishes I have tried. It does do better in a warm room. I don't think humidity has any effect on TM or most other epoxies.

If it has not dried in a reasonable amount of time, you probably need to re-coat with another carefully mixed batch in a warm setting. That should do it.

Joe Douglas

If you are using TM lite. it will take longer to set up and dry.

Maybe it is a cool weather thing- here in North Pole, Alaska, it takes forever during the winter but is only taking about 1/2 as long this summer. About the same length of time as Flexcoat. The thin stuff takes even longer than the thicker build.

Pesco Ergo Sum

Humidity will have no effect on your epoxy, drying time or otherwise.

For every 20F reduction in temperature from about 70F you double the required set and cure time. So if you're working at around room temperature, you can toss that one out too.

If you are experiencing tacky or non "dry" finish after several days, you've measured or mixed the finish improperly - count on it.

...........

Duane Richards (DR) Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What did you use to mix it with? Tell me something
> flat and not round, if it's round you have your
> answer: not mixed well. TM regular build is the
> fastest setting hardest 2 part finish I've tried,
> one thing it doesn't do is take long to
> dry....something is wrong:
>
> poorly mixed
> wrong ratio
> same part used twice = missing hardner or missing
> finish
>
> DR

Hank,
It has to do with how molicules from part A and B are introduced to each other. When a round instrument is used, the molicules travel around the mixing instrument and do not properly collide and interact. When a flat instrument is used, the molicules are "mashed" against each other and interact correctly. Its not easy to explain, but most of the epoxy companies recommend flat spatula mixing.

Hope this helps. Im not a molecular engineer so I don't have all the confusing lingo for you!!!

Kevin

I'm going to chime in on Threadmaster. I have never tried the Lite, but I have used several bottles of regular TM, and have had zero failures of any kind. A dozen guys have told you the same thing. What I really wanted to add is that I am not a proponent of putting a new coat of finish over the mushy one. I believe you still will have mush underneath. I built a SCIII crankbait rod (with a different product) and the wraps never set up properly, even with a second coat. I ended up taking the guides off and rewrapping the whole rod (with TM).

Maybe some other builders have had good success applying finish over the uncured first coat, but I'll never do it again. Fortunately, up to this point it has never been an issue again. Thank you, Andy.

I've never had TM regular take a long time to dry although TM Lite does take a long time. Don't know about the flat/round thing but if it has to be flat, why do the electric epoxy mixers work so well when they use round ball bearings in a round cup???

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Here is Australia, I have used Threadmaster on 40 degree days and on 10 degree days all with various humidities. I have had varying cure times but never longer than 3 hours for the initial set up and it is always cured within 24 hours.

I used the TM lite, and did use a round device. I didn't hink the humidity had anyhting to do with it-I would think ambient temp would have n effect.

Don't get me wrong guys, I love the stuff and the clarity is second to none. I also may have exagerated a bit on drying time-it was a bit tacky after about 12 hours.

Thanks for the great input you guys, and I learn something everytime I visit you guys. Time for me to get a subscription to RB!

Paul

TM Lite takes about twice as long to dry (and cure) as TM regular, but not unduly so. Several hours, or so. It is temperature sensitive, i.e., if it's colder it'll take longer to dry. But not moreso than any other brands.

I bet you mixed it incorrectly, is all i.e., too much of one half vs the other.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I use regular TM. My drying box is usually at a minimum of 90°. Epoxy is firm enough to apply decals over in just over 3 hours. I have NEVER had a problem with TM. Hot and humid summer or cold and dry winter. And MN has the extremes of both.



...........................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Fran Park Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm going to chime in on Threadmaster. I have
> never tried the Lite, but I have used several
> bottles of regular TM, and have had zero failures
> of any kind. A dozen guys have told you the same
> thing. What I really wanted to add is that I am
> not a proponent of putting a new coat of finish
> over the mushy one. I believe you still will have
> mush underneath. I built a SCIII crankbait rod
> (with a different product) and the wraps never set
> up properly, even with a second coat. I ended up
> taking the guides off and rewrapping the whole rod
> (with TM).
>
> Maybe some other builders have had good success
> applying finish over the uncured first coat, but
> I'll never do it again. Fortunately, up to this
> point it has never been an issue again. Thank you,
> Andy.


Andy, I suspect in your case perhaps the first batch the mix ratio may have been way off. Typically I have had on or two occassions where the first coat didn't quite set up as fast as normal, if it's almost "right" applying a second coat over the top shouldn't be an issue, but of course that takes an educated guess. If the first coat won;t set up at all- there is alikelihood that someone doubled up on one of the ingredients and left one out (either part A or B) and of course this will never harden and should not be coated over, it would have to be removed in that case.

My typical drying times for TM regular are about three hours, and up to six hours for TM lite, tho in both cases the finish may remain a bit tacky for 12 hrs. or so, maybe up to 24 with the TM lite.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2008 08:31AM by Mark Ganrude.

Paul
I'm at the same latitude as you and TM lite takes a lot longer to cure for me also. I will usually put 1 coat of lite on and follow 24 hours later with a coat of regular.
On another note, I have almost finished my 15' Raven (just have the weave to finish and epoxy to apply)

P.S. I'll see you in 38 days :)
I'll be in town on the 1st of September, staying at the Ramada on E 3rd and then heading south on the 2nd.

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

Sounds good Dave, LETS GO FISHING!!!

PAUL