What is the best tool for cutting the tip on a blank with when you want to shorten it?

Chad:

I use a Dremel w/ cut-off wheel

Dremel for me and I use tape at the point of cutting to help avoid and splintering of the blank.

Dremel here too....I like the little THIN diamond cut off wheels for choping blanks....and like suggested use the tape.

DR

very fine hacksaw in a straight mitre box with tape round blank

The best thing is a high speed tool with an abrasive cut off wheel mounted on the tool.
If you use thin abrasive wheels, you will need the least power and have the longest disk life.

For example:

[]

or

[]

I have picked up one of these orange mini chop saws, took off the 2 inch saw blade, and replaced the saw blade with a 3 inch thin abrasive wheel.

[www.northerntool.com]

--------
If you have air in your shop - you could use an air driven high speed cut off tool:

[www.northerntool.com]

-----------------
I have also modified an 8 inch miter saw to use an abrasive disk. Because an abrasive disk wears - not like a saw blade which does not have its diamter decrease; I elevated the cutting bed by 3 inches, so that as the abrasive blade wears, the saw will still chop with the smaller wheel. For disks, I use the very thin machine room cut off wheels:

[www.grainger.com]

p.s.
This miter saw, modified to be used as a chop saw also does a wonderful job of chopping pvc tubes for shipping.
I also use it to chop finished handles to a different length, or to chop the end of a rod butt to give a clean finished end after a glue up.

Take care
Roger

Sounds like a dremel or similar is the best bet. Has anyone tried a small tubing/pipe cutter?

yup shattered out way too many splinters its ok on thin wall at the butt end but no good on say a 20 wt fibreglass boat rod

Before I bought my Dremel (thin fiber cutoff wheel with masking tape). I put tape on the blank and used a triangle file to cut the blank. These are the two best methods I've found for cutting a blank.

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Roger Wilson's solution (above) is what we did about a year ago. Harbor freight also has these kinds of auxiliary tools.

We use the not only for cutting tips but for cutting butt sections to shorten the rod, too. We also use this for cutting pre-formed cork, or anything else we want perfectly straight and squared-up (for example, when a customer asks us to modify the rear grip or butt on an OEM rod to shorten it, lengthen it, add a gimbal, etc.)

This tool eliminates the chance of splitting the fibers on the remaining blank.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I'm going against the grain here but with good reason. The best or least damaging way to cut a rod is by using a fine file. The finer the better. Jewelers files would work best but aren't necessary. Simply turn the file on its edge and start slowly cutting while turning the blank until you get through. Allow the file to do the work by not cutting to deep on any one stroke. When using the right amount of pressure the rod material will turn to dust with no chips or splinters. If excess pressure is applied by trying to cut to deep the fibers will splinter weakening the blank. A weakened blank will egg shape under pressure and ultimately collapse and break. It takes no more time, just about as much effort and probably cheaper to use a file rather than some of the other tools available.

While it may seem normal to tape off a blank, use power tools, coarse or fine blades, hack saws, etc. its a mistake due to the fact that its impossible to protect the inside of your blank!

Protect your investment by using a file!

Phil

The graphite will soon ruin the edges of fine files. Initially they work quite well, just requiring a bit of elbow grease, but after a few blanks they will wear. Very right though to mention not pushing too hard, just let the file do the work. It is tedious.

Taping the blank gives an alignment edge to cut to, holds the outer fibres together to minimise outer edge splintering (damage and breaks occur from failure of outer fibres first!!), and although not as significant, protects the outer surface somewhat should you slip on starting the cut.

The dremel with the ceramic/diamond cutoff wheel is the best bet. It cuts by abrasion, and doesn't splinter the graphite, due to high speed. With a file, you will get some small splintering on the inside. Saws do the same. They basically cut in similar fashion, it's just that the smaller the tooth, the less damage it makes by gripping before cutting.

It is also very possible to protect the inside of the blank. It depends on where you are cutting, and you need a lot of sizes of disposable scrap pieces, plus something to push them out with afterwards.

Take a look at any archery shop that cuts and adds nocks and points to carbon arrows and you will always find high speed abrasive cut-off saws. The diameter is larger than a dremel but they are very effective to cut things off square. The next best thing if you don't wish to spend the money on such a tool AND you don't have any other tools around eligible to holds such an abrasive wheel is a dremel with the cut-off disks. They work great - are useful for many other jobs with the variety of attachments available and are fairly inexpensive at the same time. They work great for me - but please use them outside - the graphite doesn't mix well with lung tissue. Good luck with whatever choice you make, Chuck Ungs

Thanks for all of the information. I do have access to a dremel and plan to go that route.

Am I to understand that the use of a small "chop" saw from harbor freight with a very fine wheel is the best thing to use when making a one piece blank into a two piece. I also have a question as to where to cut the blank to fit the ferrule (American Tackle company brass ferrule)?

Sorry just needed to check the email box.