I have never used an air brush and want to learn. My only question is, if using Testor's paint, what can I thin it with to get better flow? I was thinking lacquerer thinner or acetone? Or should i use mineral spirits? I want it to dry faster than just regular Testors.

I suggest you go to a hobby store, like Michael's, and buy real airbrush paints. You will have a great selection AND a whole lot of colors. Testor's does make paints for airbrush, but you pretty much have to order them - they seem difficult to find at retail locations.

For practicing and learning how to use the airbrush...I'd suggest non-solvent based paints. Organic masks aren't necessary. Much healthier option.

I too would suggest real airbrush paints. They are already thinned and ready to use.



................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

If you have a custom auto paint shop near by you may want to talk to there paint paint guys for suggestions.
Good Wraps Bob

Testors airbrush thinner! They make it and it should be on the display rack at and hobby shop. It works better then regular paint thinner. Testors is a regular oil based enamel. I don't like water based type of paint they shoot kind of funny IMO. Also I only thin Testors about 20% or just till it runs thin on a mixing stick. Spray many thin coats and keep it moving you will get good coverage and it dries pretty quick. If you use a compresser you don't want alot of pressure and you want a water trap mostly if it's humid where you are!

Createx (sp?) airbrush paints are fantastic. All water based and very durable. I've used them for custom paint jobs on mountain & road bikes. Huge range of colors reasonably priced.

Testors also makes there own brush cleaner in the same size bottles. however, I would recomend starting with poster paint that you can wash off if you make a mistake. just my 2c

Tim
The thing is: what are you going to be using the airbrush for.
If its use has anything to do with marine useage ( rods / lures) oil based paints like Testors might not be the best medium.
whatever you do with oilbased enamels.................fast drying they are not.
modern automotive paints are very quick drying and pretty durable & widely available.
if your end use is anything to do with marine useage you should be thinking of a 2-pack urethane top coat for durability and that means what ever you use underneath needs to be compatible.
You can use waterbased colours but they tend to be difficult to use and not the best thing to start out with .
most common system with urethane top coat is automotive base colour ( v,v quick drying) and a clear urethane top coat. ( these base colours are not the same medium as solid automotive paints ).
Do a websearch on airbrushing - there are some good tutorials on the web.
Sorry I can't give a link as its been a long time since I was there.
CAUTION: with 2-pack urethanes make sure you are using them in a well ventilated area as a cyanide compound is a product of the urethane 2-pack reaction in most automotive systems.
I use 2-pack basecolours & clear 2-pack urethane on lures & tint the 2-pack urethane for a single coat application on rods.
Good Luck................ just another form of artistry like rodbuilding.
DenisB

You folks have no idea how timely this thread is for us!

We've got an airbrush but no compressor. That's easily rectified, but we need to paint some older rods. We were concerned about how the paints would work on a flexible surface like a rod, as opposed to a "fixed" surface like a car. I'm quite familiar with Testor's products, and yes, you can order anything they sell online and their service is very good. But for use on a rod, I don't think they'll hold up to the marine environment, including the tough treatment a rod gets in heavy use. If I'm wrong, please help me out!

So here's some really simple questions -

Dennis, where do I get the 2-pack urethane paint kits? Any favourite brands? Are you saying that we need to apply the color and then a topcoat of clear as well?

For everyone else, are there any other car-type paints we can use besides the urethane?

Thanks much
Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Go to an automotive paint store. Ask for a 2 coat system that are used in painting fiberglass bodied cars like corvettes. Make sur you get a flex additive also. These products are not cheap. When using these type of products I recommend using a painters mask and a well ventilated area. Better yet why not strip the rods de-gloss the rods with a scuff pad, smooth out any rough spots. Then find a auto body shop to shoot them for you. Keep in mind you my need to have them primered. This way you get great looking rods that are dust and bug free
Good Wraps Bob

Some use Pactra paints which are made for R/C cars (which are plastic) that get a LOT of abuse and damage.. I know Mark Griffith uses them for that and rods and says that it is reall tough and flexible. Caveat-- I haven't done any air brushing yet
[www.hobbylinc.com]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I have a ton of airbrushes. All I can say is be careful of the paint you use. Ingredients for airbrush paint are ground much finer than other paints and must pass through smaller openings without clogging. I would contact places that specialize in airbushes and supplies and ask them. Places like Dixieart, Dickblick etc. Autobody shops usually use larger airsprayers so I'm not sure it's exactly the same thing. Createx is a good paint but there are a couple of types of that also. The paints they use for tee shirts are flexible too but I'm not sure how good they would be on rods.

BTW ........ for practicing airbrushing ........ try food color and water or india ink ........ cheaper than the paints for practice

Hope this helps .......

Go to an automotive paint store. Ask for a 2 coat system that are used in painting fiberglass bodied cars like corvettes. Make sur you get a flex additive also. These products are not cheap. When using these type of products I recomend using a painters mask and a well ventalated area. Better yet why not strip the rods degloss the rods with a scuff pad, smooth out any rough spots. Then find a auto body shop to shoot them for you. This way you get great looking rods that are dust and bug free
Good Wraps Bob

Russ
Re lack of compressor: you can run an airbrush off light truck tyres on a rim, pump them up to max pressure at the gas station & put a cheap water trap & pressure regulator on the line to the airbrush.
A bit of fiddling to get the right connections from the tyre valve to your airline, but its doable & cheap to get going.
You won't get a mass of work done per tyre , but 2 tyres should get a 7 ft fishing rod done.
I started airbrushing using 2 light truck tyres myself for a couple of years.
The finish coat is a 2-pack urethane............ referred to in the trade as a 2K system ( 2 parts resin base: I part hardener).
It depends entirely what sort of colour you are after as to whether you use a separate base colour & then clear coat or whether you tint the 2K urethane & do it in one coat.
what I mean is: ( please don't take the following as a statement of how the rods referred to are actually coated in the factory.............. cause I don't know............ I'm merely using their finish colour intensity as a guide.)
If you want a solid colour like a typical car colour ( plain or metalflake ) it will require painting with the colour of choice as a base colour & then after its dry you apply the 2K urethane clear.
If on the other hand you are looking for a translucent finish like say a Batson RX7 or a PacBay Rainforest you tint the 2K urethane with your tint of choice & do it in one coat.
Tints for this translucent finish are called Candy or Kandy Colours.
Post above warning about auto colours is correct , if you are using a very samall diameter aperture airbrush .............if your airbrush is 0.3 - 0,5mm you should not have any trouble with solid colours or small to medium metal flake......................keep away from large metalflake in an airbrush..................leads to tears & bad language.
I source most of my base colours from a local auto spray repair shop....................they usually have heaps & heaps of leftovers from auto repairs & if there is a colour you like it usually comes gratis.
If you want them to mix a colour for you it costs .
EVERYTHING you use - from base colour to finish coat ( including the thinners for each coating type MUST BE COMPATIBLE).............. so check out your needs with the point of supply & make sure everyhing is compatible. The thinner for base colour is a different thinner to the one required for the urethane.
Airbrush usually requires a lot more thinner than typical auto spray guns............... get the fastest thinner you can afford.( ie evaporates quickly ).
Alternatively you can source small quantities of just about everything you need from internet stores specialising in airbrush supplies..............quantities as small as 1/2 Oz are available from some sites.
1/2 oz or 1 oz of colour goes a long way in an airbrush.
Google:- airbrush ; then base colour in advanced search.
For tips on technique:-
Google:- airbrushing ; then lessons in advanced search............... from memory a couple of sites have reasonable online tutorials............... from memory ........www.airbrushing.org
House of Kolor has a huge range of paints & finishes available thru a number of online stores.
US/Canada delivery approx $10.00................. delivery to me in OZ more than $150.00........... that trip across the Pacific is a pain as paints & thinners / finishcoats are prohibited cargo without special precautions.
So I source my stuff locally.

Good luck & don't forget:
2K urethane must be used in a well ventilated area & a good dust mask is required.
Mixing urethane is just as critical as mixing epoxies..................exact mix required guys.
I use either 2 same sized teaspoons or 2 syringes........... & don't swap the spoon or syringe you use between Part A & PartB. Mix well & let it stand for 5 min or so before starting to add thinners.
& use multiple thin coats with a decent pause in between rather than one thick one ..............to avoid runs.
DenisB

Rods in factories are dipped and a real rubber squeege is used to remove the excess finish and bubble,. then they are put in a oven. I would not recommend getting air from a tire pump or service station. You can pick up dirt and water using that method to get air. It has already been mentioned but for your own health. Ware a paint mask. the fumes from a 2 part system well ruin your lungs for life. Like I said before have a professional paint the rods for you. All you have to do is prep the rods, scuff with a gray scuff pad, wipe clean and tape off grips and reel seat. I used to have mine done for 25 bucks a shot.
Good Wraps Bob

This is a good time to think BEER ... CO2. Get a small tank from your local "home brew" supply store. It will run an airbrush forever. Clean and moisture free.