Well, I got my reel today and put it one the tuna rod. Got the belt on to see how it felt, wouldn't lock into the belt at the gimbal. Looked down, and saw the gimbal was not aligned. It looks like it rotated about 60 degrees from where it should be. It must have been when I put the gimbal on the floor to slide the foregrip down fully, I didn't even realize it until now! :( Is there any way to fix this???? I used Lamar Ultimate Gel Epoxy. I do have a heat gun that will get to 400 and 1000, and a MAPP torch. Is this saveable or do I need to scrap it and start again??

I would send Andy Dear (Lamar) a email explaining your problem and see what he recomends. Because of heat does not work , you may have to cutt the Gimble off and replace it with a new one.
Good Wraps Bob

Send Lamar an email. I could always take it to a machine shop and have them turn/grind it off. A friend owns a shop, so he would let me do it myself probably.

What is your gimbal made of? You have to be fast but you could use a torch and heat it. When you use heat make sure you have a cold wet iced rag wrapped arund the blank next to the gimbal. Have channel locks ready as soon as you see a steam puff twist off the gimbal and put a cold rag on the blank.. If you think the integrity of the blank has been compromised you can put a small pug inside.
Good Wraps Bob

Before I redid or redesigned the rod's gimbal, I would consider redesigning the socket on the belt.
If it is one of those types that have metal pieces crisscrossed through he sides of the socket I would remove them drill new holes in the location that you need to fit the rod, if you can’t reuse the metal pieces? Replace with bolts using flush head and short thread pattern, stainless steel. Whole lot cheaper if you mess up

It's a Pac Bay Aluminum Gimbal. The whole lower half of the rod is complete: Gimbal, Tuff Butt, Reel Seat, Foregrip. I do have a e glass tuna blank I had cut up into 18" sections, should be here tomorrow. I could always use that to reinforce the butt end. Could I cut it off between the gimbal and tuff butt, epoxy one of the other sections in the grip, and then build that up for another gimbal?

About how hot would I have to get the gimbal?? Kinda worried about the Plastic Tuff Butt that is right next to the gimbal.

Got an email from Lamar, said to heat for 10 seconds, try to twist off, repeat until the bond breaks.

I wouldn't be able to redo the belt, since I would need the belt for other rods besides this one.

Take it to your Buddy, machine it off, drill the blank out of the gimbal, fit a plug that will adapt as a female ferrule between the gimbal and blank, re-epoxy with Lamar gel [excellent product] and make sure you tape it from blank to gimbal the long way using masking tape and re-check alignment before setting down between your rod supports.

Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fishin'Stix by Fred

For what that gimbal cost, I'd spiral cut it, pop it open with a screwdriver and remove it. Then install a fresh one in the proper alignment.

Heat isn't good for your blank. Eat the half dozen or less dollars for a new gimbal.

................

Timothy like I explained. When heating the Gimbal just heat it until you see some puffs of smoke or steam coming out of the end of the Gimbal. What I foregot to mention that you should rotate the rod as you are appling heat to the Gimbal. Oh yes I use a butane torch an the flam is blue
Good Wraps Bob

Tom's solution make the best sense of all Gimble are cheap compared to the rod .
Good Wraps Bob

Sorry Bob but I agree with Tom....NO HEAT SHOULD EVER BE USED... to remove anything that has been applied with epoxy glue. You are asking for big trouble....I have tried to save rods where heat has been used by pros. and could not repair most of them.

Timothy....as Tom says to save a couple bucks it may not be worth it....or you could save those bucks and go as I suggest. It may add a couple ounces of weight but with a gimbaled rod you will never notice the added weight......DO NOT USE HEAT, you may regret it.

Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fishin'Stix by Fred

Tim

get a pair of welders gloves (or similar) so you won't burn your hand.

Have a buddy hold the rod, apply heat sparingly...gently twist the gimbal a hair to see if the epoxy broke. Do not force the twist. keep applying heat sparingly and it will pop off.

I have done this a number of times with no ill reprocussions. It is another matter when it comes to the tip....

I have switched over to the 15 min epoxy for the gimbals, just so I can hold it in place and ensure it won't move. With the longer cure epoxy, I usually put it against the wall to apply some pressure on it. Then I would check it every so often to make sure it didn't pop or move..

Oh yeah, I always put my gimbal on LAST. I then can check it out on my belt with the reel in place and can find the actual sweet spot. Plus I could never fit a gimbal in the chuck..



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/18/2008 06:14PM by Ernie Johnson.

I just mentioned the heat only if he can not get a new Gimbal. You did notice that I said to wrap a cold iced towel on the blank just above the Gimbal. this well help keep the the heat transfering to the blank. An if he removes the Gimbale as soon as he see the steam smoke. and put a cold towel on the area where the gimbal was should eliminate any blank problems
Good Wraps Bob

I tried some light heat with the heat gun, but it didn't do anything. No puffs or steam. I'll have it machined off tomorrow. I will be getting a new gimbal anyway, I just wanted to make sure I could get it off somehow!

Dremel with a cut off wheel is all that you need. Just take it really slow, especially if there is little space between the gimbal and the blank.

As for heat I said use a Butane torch. I also agree with Mel, use a Dremel cut off wheel. Every rod builder should have a Dremel tool. As this post shows there is more than one way to skin a cat. Just go with you feel meets your needs.
Good Wraps Bob

I have a Dremel, as well as a 4" angle grinder, 1x30 belt sander, and a 2x72 Grizzly belt sander for when I used to make knives. That may work the best with 36 grit ceramic belts! I tried to use the heat gun to remove a tip top at the 400 degree setting, and it didn't even budge. About 15 to 20 seconds with a cheap Zippo got the tip top off. Go figure! Its not a direct heat or flame, so it doesn't act the same. The Al got hot, but never budged.

I will grind or machine it off, and order another gimbal tomorrow am. I have the original plastic/graphite gimbal from the Pac Bay Tuff Butt, but I want an Aluminum one; the Pac Bay blue is almost identical to the Avet blue on the reel I just got in! I just wanted to make sure I could remove it before I start getting the guides spaced out, gluing the tip top on, etc.

The heat supplied by a lighter is to slow, when trying to remove a tip top that was secured by an epoxy glue. The only thing that well happen when using a lighter to remove a tip top is you well melt the tip of the rod. 2 seconds with a Butane torch and a blue flam well remove any tip top and it well not hurt the rod. If the tip top is bad you can use a Dremel cut off wheel an in most cases it well pop off. Some time you just add a little heat and it is off.
Good Wraps bob

What is your gimbe made of? You have to be fast but you could use a torch and heat it. When you use heat make sure you have a cold wet iced rag wrapped arund the blank next to the gimble. Use chanel locks ready as soon as you see a steam puff twist off the gimble and put a cold rag on the blank.. If you think the intrgraty of the blak hs been compromised you can put a small pug inside.
Good Wraps Bob