Ok I've finished the rod I posted about back on 6/1/08
"I’m building fly rod (again my first).
Using;
Shikari SHX PP7000 popping blank. 7ft 6-12 line, 1/4-1/2 oz. lures, extra –Fast."
Will be getting reel from JP

Went looking for fly line yesterday and realized I did not really know what I was looking at, because I don’t know what the symbols are, and person in store who knows was not in.

This what’s available locally. Please advise me what I am looking at and your suggestions
Scientific Anglers
Floating: L-5-F
Floating: L-7-F
Floating:WF-5-F


Spencer Phipps was kind enough to put this set up together and post some test results he got if that info helps or makes a difference
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks for all the help I’ve received with this project!

L-5-F is for a level line, 5-weight, floating.

L-7-F is for the same thing, but in a 7-weight.

WF-5-F is a weight forward, 5 weight, floating line. That's the one I'd go for - weight forward. I wish I could draw the tapers for you so you could see what these letters represent, but perhaps you can visualize it in your mind. A level line is just that - non tapered. The weight forward models put the weight into a slightly thicker section concentrated near the end (fish's) of the fly line. It tends to make longer casts easier and pushes through wind better. This may or may not matter depending on what you're going to do with the rod.

..................

Tom;
Thank You So Much
WF-5-F is what I will use for all the reasons you listed, and to help make up for my lack of skill in casting. As the only experience I've had to date was behind your shop getting lesions.

Steve,
If your rod is a 12 weight, then I suspect you will have a diffult time casting a 5 weight. The 12 and the the 5 refer to the weight of the first thirty feet of the line and represents the weight of line needed to load the rod. To load a rod with the power to cast a 12 weight comfortably you will need to have a much longer weight of the 5 weight to get that same weight of line. This means that you will need to get perhaps as much as 60 to 80 feet of the 5 weight to get the same weight as the 12 weight line.

A fly rod of a given power can certainly cast a range of line weights. For your rod, I would guess from 9 weight through 15 weight would allow you to cast comfortably over a range of distances. I think you will find a 5 weight to be much too light. Before investing in a 5 weight flyline (they aren't cheap), I would find someone who has a 5 weight and try it on your rod. I hope this is useful to you.

Mike Blomme

Not sure that rod is a 12-weight, but don't have it in my hands either. The fast tip will be a plus, but as Mike says, you need a certain amount of weight on the rod to get it to load easily.

In overall line matching, the DBI will be of greater assistance than just the ERN alone - the tip power counts for a lot, particularly in close.

If you have time, bring it by here and we can run the numbers and see what line weight would likely be best.

...............

I believe that rod will be a 4-8 weight based on the lure weight conversion.

FLY LINE CONVERSION CHART
To convert fly rod numerical line ratings based on weight in grains to terminal tackle weights in ounces, see the following table:

FLY LINE RATING - CASTING WEIGHT (ozs.)
1 - 1/8
2 - 3/16
3 - 1/5
4 - 1/4
5 - 5/16
6 - 3/8
7 - 3/5
8 - 1/2
9 - 9/16
10 - 2/3
11 - 3/4
12 - 7/8 to 1 ounce

Basically 1/8 oz of casting weight per line weight. With that, I would suggest a 7 or 8 weight line, my preference is to use a weight at or just over the rod rating. But like Tom said, run the Common Cents numbers and you will be spot on.

Steve,
Finally got down to the water with that prototype. It's been raining and blowing here for almost a week so testing fly gear it's optimum, but if it was me fishing this rod where your casting, picking off the water and casting to another spot and fairly close, I'd use at least a 6 wt line.
The 6 wt wasn't near as good as the 8 wt line today in the wind and water conditions, but it rollcasted great and would leave less disturbance on the water in calmer conditions.

Since the fish I am after are "schooling" making a disturbance on the water will not be a problem and may even be a plus. Because from what I can tell chasing these fish over the years is that they are looking for disturbances on the surface indicating the presence of small baitfish

I’m also not opposed to have two reels set up that I could change over depending on conditions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/06/2008 11:15PM by Steve Gardner.

Switching reels on the rod would be quite time consuming in terms of stringing up the new line. Pretty much the same issue with a spare spool. Depending how long you are casting, maybe a shooting head system would work well for interchangeability. Same running line, just changeable heads with different sink rates, weights, etc. Head length would be dictated by how much line you can hold in the air, but about 3X rod length is a good estimate.

Shooting heads can be fished short, it's either the same as presenting with a regular line within the head length (no shooting, just carrying line in the air), or getting your overhang out and going for a short shoot. Or an integrated head like a RIO Outbound.

Ted;


I really appreciate your input, but am totally confused by your suggestions. I have never fly fished, so I have no idea what you are talking about.

As far as changing reels; takes about 60 seconds to snatch reel off and on, string new line, and retie lure.

Steve I think he was trying to say that in fly rods angling the fly line is your weight so the line will naturally run right out of the guides if you don't watch what your doing. I double over the line before I thread it through the guides for this reason as if you drop the line the next guide down will stop the line from dropping all the way out due to the loop jamming the guide ring. With the short rod we're talking about it's a lot easier than threading and managing a 8 to 15 ft fly rod.

Yeah, that was the point. You can just save time over stringing up the rod by having interchangeable heads. Fair enough you can rig up faster, seeing as the rod's only 7 feet long. I will say that stringing it up can be annoying if what Spencer mentioned happens. I use the loop trick too.

I am only just getting into the fly fishing game as well. Finished my 7 1/2 ft 5 wt, and have had a couple sessions. Been lucky enough to bless it with 2 tarpon, a small queenfish, and a baby giant trevally.