I was wondering if anyone could give me some input on this subject. I am building myself a muskie rod and need some advice. I got a size 18 trigger seat that fits snugly in just the right spot with no shimming. I was thinking of using a small cork grip at the butt for hilding on to when casting and then just the reel seat, with no foregrip or cork behind the reel seat. Is this a good idea? It would save some weight on the rod, and it seems like it would still be comfortable to cast with. No foregrip gives no place to hold onto when fighting a muskie, but the rod seems to be big enough diameter that I wouldn't necessarily need a foregrip. Any in put would be appreciated.
Mike Applebee

Mike I haven't built any Muskie rods, but have built Sturgeon boat rods, about the same thing, about the same size fish, but the muskies fight a little harder.

Build it the way you want it, thats why we call it custom rod building.

If your worried about a few grams of weight on that size rod, I wouldn't worry about it!

I personally would make it a split grip, with or with out the fore grip. A couple of steelhead rods I have built didn't have any cork or eva around the reel seat for the most part they are ok, but every once in a while, while fighting a little bit bigger fish than normal, I'll say to my self I wish I had put some cork or eva or wood piece behind the reel seat for comfort.

Some people like the no fore grip and some don't like it, personal preference.

For fighting the bigger fish a little cork or eva fore grip makes it more comfortable when the fight lasts more than 10 min.

Just MHO.

I'm with Tim on this one......and I've built several Musky rods. Use what feels good! Longer split grip handles and no forgrips for me. Any material.... with Hapalon and cork being my favorites.

DR

Like Tim said, it personal preference but on a musky rod (especially a boat rod) weight isn't a facto. I build some musky rods and depending on the type of rod holder, I prefer split grips and use burl cork (much tougher) Many prefer to stick the butt in the belly and hold onto a forefrip while fighting the fish

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I do not find casting rods without grip directly behind the seat to be comfortable.

Hold a rod in fishing position once...does the back of your hand extend past the reel seat?

Hold a rod in casting position...does the back of your hand extend past the reel seat?

If you answered yes to either of those questions...you'll want grip behind the seat.

You certainly don't need a full 12" grip. But you'll want a few inches behind that seat. Personally, I put 3" at a minimum. Just enough room for the trigger to be between my fingers, thumb on the spool and heel of my palm still on the grip.


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Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Mike, when fighting a big fish, or repeated pulls of the rod when using jerkbait style lures, I am still of the opinion that a foregrip, even a small one is going to give you a better, less tiring grip then holding on to the reel. You don't have to go with a full blown foregrip. Mark where you would hold the rod for jerkbait fishing or lifting the rod when trying to pull the fish off the bottom and put your foregrip on there.

I am with you on the small butt grip, but I really think you are going to want some type of foregrip for jerkbait action and lifting.

Buzz

Mike, A few thoughts about your muskie rod; I am a thoroughly addicted muskie fisherman, and have build a hundred or so muskie rods, so maybe I can help a bit.

I hold the rod when casting by the foregrip, so for my personal rods, I use a rather large foregrip of about 5" long and 1.25" diameter. I find that my hand and wrist is in much better shape after an long day (or week) on the water this way. I also feel that I have much more power for a hookset when a large fish hits. I realize that some fishermen prefer, or cannot get away from palming the reel, but it is something to consider.

Secondly, the other issue I have is at the moment I lift the lure out of the water to cast again. A bit of weight at the butt end of the rod helps balance the large lure dangling off the end of the rod 7 1/2 or 8 feet away. I find that using a rod that is built extremely light at the butt end tends to fatigue my forearms after a few hours of casting, and I feel it most at the moment I am lifting a lure out of the water. I usually build handles and butt caps with a bit of stabilized wood in them, or even have been known to add a bit of weight to the butt for some balance. Even Andy's cork is a bit heavier, and helps. I've never had a client complain about a rear grip/handle that seems to heavy, and most all comment favorably on the way the rod casts and balances. So I'd recommend that if you are going to build a split rear handle, build the rod with butt cap/ rear grip unglued, and test cast with a bit of weight back there. Then, make your decision from there.

With respect to Muskie rods:
1. I very much dislike split grips. To much need for holding the rod in various places to put up with the nonsense of no grip where y ou need it.

2. Absolutely have a nice long fore grip. Nearly all big fish need the rod to be held in front of the reel for good landing and fighting power. A grip that is about 1 1/2 inches in diameter in FRONT of the reel, gives a good substantial handle to hold the rod.

3. Whether you use cork or something else is up to you. With the price of good cork, I am going more and more to EVA or a solid handle, like a slick grip. These make very nice grips at a much more reasonable price than cork.

4. Extra weight in the butt section of a Muskie rod is a good thing. Some extra weight helps to balance the rod, make the rod much less tiring to fish, and overall makes up for a much better rod.

Take care
Roger