Random assortment of things I learned on this board that have REALLY helped me as a beginner... Better details available here if you do a search. Credit for each tip goes to original poster, I am just listing some for rookies to consider BEFORE getting started.

It would be nice if this was added to and possibly made sticky... Eventually I think Tom could make an issue of RB titled "101 Things For a New Builder to Know!" We could all buy multiple issues to give out to friends!!!!!!
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Probably the best tip I know of - If it starts to set, mix up a new batch!

I will lay enough epoxy on my butt wrap to only fill in the highs and lows. I used a playing card to really squeeze out any extra.
Wait a few hours, then repeat on butt wrap, but with less pressure on the card. literally, only spend enough time to put some epoxy on and then slowly run the card down its length while rod is turning. Unless you have some major high lows, just leave it alone. Because the epoxy from first coat is still tacky, the second coat spreads REALLY well.

Make sure your rod is turning completely evenly (especially at the tip) Seems pretty obvious, but I assume most rookies are like me with some makeshift dryer and not something that has all the wheels and stuff. Anyway, mine was off just a little that towards the tip made it rotate in an arc. I was still able to get finish on and make it look good, but during drying process the arc made the epoxy create high spots.

Subscribe or buy a few copies of Rod Builder, even if you don't need them it is still very inspiring. I stared at the custom cork grip issue so long I had to try it... same thing for the live bait rod issue.

Use a flashlight on your completed wraps to check for gaps. First time I did this, I could not believe my eyes. The light intensifies the colors below sort of like epoxy does. Edit: Actually the flashlight trick was the one thing I came up with on my own. Really works well for me. I thought of it after I took a picture of a finished wrap and saw what the flash brought out..... scary.


When packing, try getting the thread wet, makes it move easier and burnish better. NOTE - careful at your tieoffs, as they will slip out easier if you mess around with them too much when they are wet.

Try rolling over threads after first coat of color preserver. Edit: while wet.. helps flatten threads and reduce those difficult little gaps.

Practice everything at least once before actually doing it. Old junk rods or 1/2" CPVC pipe work great!

Double sided Carpet Tape - Best $4 you can spend.

Install syringes in the lids of your epoxy bottles - before use push all the air out and leave upside down, you can extract bubble free mix that way.

MIcrowave EVA for 10-15 seconds before installing, MUCH easier - warning, dont melt them!!!

The ruled paper method for blank marking is so easy. Edit: see below for my best explanation as I could not find original post...

Change epoxy brands if it is not working for you. As it turns out, LS Supreme works best on my guides and Flexcoat HB for buttwraps. Only for me though, your results could be any brands.

Have your supplier measure your tips and reel seats for a fit when you buy the blank.

Speaking of tips - the first number is the size of the ring in mm. the second number is the diameter of the tube in 64ths of an inch. There is nothing for length of tube or anything else, just those two. It really is not as confusing as I made it out to be at first. See above tip once more :)

Don't think your first (or tenth for that matter) build will look anything like some of the pictures you see here....

I am sure there are 100's of examples, but these are a few that are simple, but I did not do the first time around, so hope it helps.


Ruled paper directions.......best I can do, but maybe someone will post original directions.

I think it was Billy V (not sure) who posted about the paper. Basically, to mark cross wraps and get your spacing correct you need to do some calculations based on the taper. The paper takes most of the math out.

To do: take a circumference measurement where you want the wrap to start (butt end) and another about where you want it to end. Figure out the average of those two. Now determine how many of those lengths make up the length of your wrap. At the end of the wrap adjust the total length to make a complete space. That number +1 is how many lines on a piece of paper you will use.
Starting at the side edge of the paper and on the first line mark the length of your first (toward butt) circumference. Now on the fifth line mark the last circumference. I actually cut the paper to manageable size and use it directly to do the measurements.
Now use a straight edge and connect the two points. If your number was 5 then you should have something that looks like the below sketch (very crude) This is basically a graph of the blanks taper.
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The spaces width on the paper is irrelevant as long as they are equal. Each lines length represents the length of each cross wrap. VERY IMPORTANT - when marking the blank you have to reverse the markings, in other words the shortest line is closest to the butt. Seems odd, but trust me on this...
To mark the reverse side of the blank you need the first point to be half the length of your opposite line. To do this I just make a new line on the paper - for me it is easiest this way. Also, I actually cut the below little piece of paper out and use it as a direct pattern. Ideally, you will never have to use a ruler.
Now, if you want to elongate or shorten your wraps, then you just have to make adjustments accordingly. I'm not going to explain % calculations, but all pretty easy just so long as you follow the taper. Good luck!

-Steve

Tampa, FL



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2008 12:07PM by Steve Edmondson.

Great tips! I'd like to add a few more that I picked up on in the last few years. They may be equally helpful to those just starting out.

Don't waste time when applying your epoxy thread finish. Slap it on and move along! Once you get all the guide wraps coated you can turn around and come back and neaten things up, fill in open spots, burst bubbles and that sort of thing. The quicker you get all the wraps covered the easier it is to coat them because the epoxy will be thinner and easier to work with. After that you have a half hour with most epoxies to tinker and tweak little imperfections.

Don't use too much thread tension. It's not necessary and makes it hard to align the guides. You need to be able shift them around after they're wrapped. So just wrap snugly not tightly.

Don't spare the color preserver! Apply it really wet so that the thread really gets wet. If you put on too much you can wick off any that puddles up or drips off. Just make sure the thread really gets good and saturated.

May I add the SEARCH section is the best place to start. Aiso make call the MANUFACTURE if you have a problem with a product.
Good Wraps Bob

Like Bob said!! The SEARCH function is probably the most useful resource available AND the most under used! There is an amazing amount of info/help available in the archives of RBO. There are literally 100’s of 1,000’s of post stored and available. To conduct a search, simply click on the Search button at the top of the message list. and type in a word or words that you are looking for info on (for instance, wavy finish and select the time frame (selecting ALL DATES will obviously get you the most info)Hit Search and you will get tons of information/help and opinions.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2008 02:44PM by Mike Barkley.

Don't trim your tie offs until after you have aligned the guides. I got tired of my tie offs popping out because I couldn't quit messing with my guide alignment. Once the guides are aligned trim the tag close the gap and put on your epoxy.

Joe

Listen to everyones suggestions and don't try to cut corners!! Alot of good stuff here guys thanks! On the search thing I have tried it several times and sometimes you find it sometimes you don't.

I am also a big fan of the search function. One thing though - Is it possible to search only the post heading and not all the responses? A fishing forum I am on has that option and it really makes it easier especially when searching for generic terminology such as the "ferrule" search i recently conducted.

-Steve

Tampa, FL

You can narrow down to exact phrase. I find that to be helpful when I am looking for something with multiple words such as "tiger wrap" or "severe rod building addiction help"...

well... ok, never found anything using the second example. Now someone can though!

Steve Edmondson Wrote:
> Try burnishing after first coat of color
> preserver.

I hope you mean while the CP is wet. The CP's I'm used to will "blush" leaving a haze
if you disturb it after it sets. Rolling is a much safer.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Another thing for beginners- don't worry about the spine hubbub. It doesn't matter. Sight down the blank, find that straightest plane or axis and put the guides on one side or the other of that. It's the simplest and best way to get a great performing rod!

I would like to throw this into the mix but only for beginners. Very often beginners get nervous over details that aren't very important at the early stages of custom rod building. The key is to get a rod or two built, catch some fish with it and get your confidence level up. I sometimes recommend that you copy your best factory made rod. Why not? You know it works and if you copy the handle and grip design and even use a factory guide spacing chart you can be assured that you're going to have something that will hold up and catch fish. That should be the important thing when starting out.

Once you get your confidence up and know that you can build a rod that works, then you can start delving deeper into the little things that will make your rod more custom and actually better than a factory rod. But when starting you don't have to stray far from factory. Just get a couple built, go fishing and save the custom touches and details for later rods. The main thing is to be successful and have fun with those first couple.

Like a lot of beginners, I suppose, I started by reading a book or two (would use Tom's now) and the online tutorials at many of the suppliers' websites. This provided a basic understanding of steps and sequencing recommended by the authors. I quickly realized that there is often no single best way to accomplish a task. So when I got to a specific step or a new step in a new rod style I would do a variety of searches here using different key words phrases related to the task. I would use positive and negative phrases - e.g, "applying finish" and "finish problems". As discussed I would get dozens or more tips for how to do the step and perhaps most importantly an understanding of the potential common "operator errors" involved in the task. This helped immensely in avoiding some problems (spare the finish on the first coat0 and probably the best tips of all - how to fix the inevetiable slip-ups.

Don't ever try to chuck a rod blank in a drill to do "lathe" work on a handle or cork once it's mounted, no matter how well you've protected the graphite with masking tape. I learned this lesson twice!!! ;-)