Hi:

I just started using Diamondite and I love it for putting down my gold leaf butt wraps.
I do a thin coat and apply my leaf after about an hour. I then overcoat with the Diamondite after it dries.
I noticed after I used it a couple of times (I have the bottles without the built in syringes so I used a new set of flex-coat syringes to start) the A part
is VERY thick and has a bit of crystallization in it. It doesn't affect the coating, it's just a bit of a pain getting it out of the bottle into the syringe.

Can I warm up the part A to re-liquify it a bit? Was there some sort of contamination on the new syringe?
I can't figure it out......

I use the hair dryer on low trick to get rid of the bubbles and start the reaction, then I put the 100w light bulb on it about 6" away.
This stuff is wonderful.

Thanks,
Jon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2008 11:54PM by Jon Gold.

It's common for the resin portion of epoxies to crystalize. You should be able to warm it and return it to like new condition.

You may want to ask Tim at Swifty Mfg., about this just to make sure everything is okay.

.............

Just curious: Where on the bottle does it say, "Part A"?

Putter
Williston, ND

OK Randy....you busted me.

I meant: Base Component.......I don't have a clue where I got Part A from.....

Wait, wait ....yes I do ....I use mostly Aftcote and on their bottle it says "Part A - Resin"
even though the Diamondite Base Component isn't a resin.

Can anyone explain to me exactly what Diamondite is, since it isn't an epoxy?

Thanks,
Jon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2008 01:01PM by Jon Gold.

I sure don't know exactly what this stuff is, either, Jon. I sure like to use it in quite a few applications though. I really like to be able to put it over Madeira threads that have the lubricant on them and not get any fish eye problems.

The stuff I have, the base component is much thicker than the activator (which is like water as it pours).

Putter
Williston, ND

Diamondite is an epoxy. An epoxy adhesive.

I always heat the base component of Diamondite to make it thinner and easier to use. I turn on my lights and drying motor before I am ready to apply the finish to pre heat the wraps, while I am doing this I simply put the bottles near the lights to heat them up.

Email Ed Smith, he did a chemical analysis of Diamondite and can tell you exactly what it is made from.

Randy, I see that you like to use Diamondite over threads like madeira. I'm somewhat of a rookie and I used rayon and polyester thread to do my first chevron but wrap. The colors are awesome and I am really surprised at how well it turned out. I am very nervous to coat it and ruin it!!!!! I am waiting for the new CP to come out from Lamar. Should I use diamondite for these types of thread? Ive been wanting to get some anyways.
Steven

I purchased a small reptile heater about 3 years ago at a pet store. Its a small 4"X6" flat, flexible mat type heater with a peel and stick adhesive backing. I stuck it to my workbench and keep my finish bottles on it. It stays around 85-90 deg. and constantly keeps the bottles at the perfect temp for easy pouring/mixing, and eliminates any crystalization whatsoever. Works great for any 2-part epoxy or glue...and kept plugged in all the time, uses less power than a typical night light. These heaters come in a variety of sizes. A bigger one will hold several bottles of finish and epoxy adhesives.