OK...I know I am doing something wrong here. I have more darn problems with decals. Mostly with the edges pulling up. I just did a stick on Mermaid decal and although it will be fixable, one edge of the decal pulled up a bit when I put the epoxy on.

I put the thread on CPed it and put a coat of epoxy on let is setup overnight until cured. Washed my hand and made sure I didn't touch the area I putting the decal one. I removed the decal from the backing and stuck the middle of the decal on the epoxy and took my burnishing tool and slowly smoothed it out from the inside out, everything looked good and put a coat of CP on it and let it dry. I applied the epoxy and after about 45 minutes the one edge started to lift up a little. It is small enough that I will be able to trim off the lump and re-coat with epoxy.

So what I am doing wrong here. This is not the 1st time I have had this kind of stuff happen with decals.

Mine: I put a coat of finish down and let it cure overnight, then I apply the decal to the new finish and burnish it down. Then let it sit an hour or so under a warm light, let cool, then coat over with finish. Works for me.

DR

It sounds like the heat is the only thing I skipped. Does it kinda activate the adhesive?

I dont think so Scott, but warm decals just seem to work better and stick better for me.

DR

Thanks Duane....I will try that next time. Gotta work better than what I have been doing.

could also place a short wrap on each end to hold it down

Don't know if you used Decal Connection Peel 'n Stick but here are the instructions for their decals.

[www.decalconnection.com]

You may have actually rubbed out the adhesive from the ends causing the end to lift. Also, if your finish wasn' done curing, this could cause the end to lift as well.

I like the warm surface idea also.

Good luck!

Terry

We put a coat of CP on the rod or thread, and let it dry 24hrs. We soak the decal for not less than 3 mins and more likely five, to make sure it's not curled. And just before we put it on the rod or thread, we coat the rod or thread lightly, with Micro Set.

Then we apply the decal, killing all the bubble and wrinkles. We pat it dry ever so gently with a paper towl. Next, we apply a verey light coat of MicroSet over it. Now we let it sping dry in our drying room where the temp is never below 70deg. We let it dry for 24hrs. Now we put on a coat of CP and let it dry for 24hrs.

Then we put on our first coat of epoxy finish, dry for 24hrs, and then the second coat of finish.

We've never had a curling or edge problem.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Thanks for the tips guys, I now have a few things to try to see if I can make it work better.

Scott,
Give me a call after 0900 eastern time today.

Jimi Ellis
Southern Grafix
www.SouthernGrafix.com

Ditto what Russ said. I do it the exact same way. The micro set to me is the important step to follow.

Bill Larsen, Norske Rod Works

He's talking about Peel and Stick, not water slide decals

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Scott if you touch the back of the decal it may remove a tiny amount of adhesive causing it to lift.
The best tool for applying the peel and stick is a wall paper roller the small one used for edges about two inches wide, you can apply far more pressure using it then any other way
John

A peel and stick decal must be properly applied and burnished into place to COMPLETELY remove all trapped air around the edge before pulling the top layer. I have found that the best way to to this is the meticulous use of the simple little curved plastic white thread packing tool. When you apply a decal and get it into position you can view from close up and see a milky white edge running all around the edge of the transfer piece. This milky appearance is caused by a slight pocket of air trapped all around the edges. Rubbing the edge of the transfer with the rounded edge of the tool and pressing firmly will make the funny look completely disappear. This should be done a couple of times before the top layer is pulled. When the top layer is pulled be sure to apply constant and firm pressure in only one direction. If this is done properly and you allow the transfer to sit an hour before finish application it will lookd like this.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Them little fishys from Decal Connection really look nice!

Gon Fishn