Do any of you have a preferred method for cutting texallium? I did a test cut on my bandsaw with the factory blade , and it seemed to perform ok. But I'm interested to see if any of you have a better way.
Thanks!

I'm wondering about this as well. I cut on my mitre saw with a fine tooth blade (finish grade). I had taped the area where I was going to cut, and it still left chips in the finish around the cut area.

AC
FishinFreaks
Rogers, MN

I'd say probably try a Dremel with a cutoff wheel.

My $100 home depot wet saw cuts everything so nice and clean (diamond blade). I would think not everyone has access to one though but its most likly is the best way to cut just about anything that needs to look good and be done quickly.

Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Dress with a fine, single cut file.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

I will second the diamond blade that is what I have seen used by blank manufacturers.

Henry probably has the quickest method. In the past I've wrapped tape around the cylinder to function as a straightedge and then cut with hacksaw or dremel tool followed by squaring on a sanding disk (you can also stand the tube on end and work it in circular motions over a piece of 100 to 150 grit sandpaper).

I've not cut any Texalium on my larger Dewalt cut-off saw yet, but have cut some carbon fiber tubing and it leaves a pretty clean end. You might still have to touch it up just a tad as the large cut-off wheels tend to burn the edges just a little bit.

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I would also vote for the diamond wheel but use mine in a dremel. I resquare the ends with a flat file and it works good on Texallium!

Whatever you do don\'t even think about using a tubing cutter! I tried that and pretty much ruined a piece of the tubing. The cutter crushes it under the guide wheels. Doesn\'t cut worth a hoot either.

I\'ve also gone to using a diamond wheel in a dremel and just use sandpaper to square up the ends afterwards. Only takes a minute and makes quick work of it.

Thanks to all for the input!

i've basically made a large arrow cutting saw out of a dremel and a cone of HDPE.

I now cut Texalium with a diamond blade in a wet tile saw. It takes the fiberglass dust out of the picture that irratates me and makes a good clean cut. Just handling this stuff after purchasing will have my wrist itching like crazy. After using the wet saw and rinsing the pieces with water I have no problems. You have to watch texalium on the cut off ends as it will flake some, masking tape will also pull the finish off if taped on the ends for cutting. Ive been using it with American Tackles Aero reel seat so one end goes into the reel seat and dont need protected, and I will make a small wrap on the butt end and apply finish. Had no concerns after finishing this way.

Mike Thompson
Thompson's Custom Rods

It is impossible to make anything foolproof, because fools are so ingenious!

Brian-

I'm sure all of the above work great. A trick I learned from Bob McKamey was to go to Harbor Freight and buy a small chop saw. I think I paid like $19.99 for mine. I have been using it for about 5 years to cut graphite tubing for Tennessee handles, Texalium tubing, foam arbors, wood blanks, mandrels, pvc tubes for shipping, etc. It really works well. The only limitations are that you have to go slow and it will only cut items about 3.5" in diameter (or maybe 3"?). I think it takes an odd size blade - like 5" - but Harbor Freight carries replacements and I have not needed to replace mine to date.

With most carbon fiber materials, you still want to wrap the area to be cut with masking tape (as Tom said above) to keep the bottom surface from splintering. Worst case you may need to do some light dressing with a sanding disc after the cut, but typically if you go slow you will get a very clean, very uniform and square cut. And it's fast.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Bill